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Topic: Downrigger Location on Hobie Outback  (Read 13068 times)

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CGN-38

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  If you have seen Zee's setup with his DR, I placed mine pretty much in the same place only on the Starboard side. The base is located in the far back gunnal, but, (Very important step here) placed in a spot just within reach from the center hatch!  I made sure I would be able to get the mounting nuts onto the bolts before I drilled anything. 
   It was a streach to reach the back most bolts, (Brusied my shoulder while doing it) but I got it secured.   So, If you decide to install it in that back gunnal just be sure you can reach the area first before drilling.
« Last Edit: October 03, 2010, 04:38:53 PM by CGN-38 »


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rrdstarr

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Are you guys using the small "Laketroller 1073" from Scotty?
-Rick
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Lee

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Rav and I (I think Zee also) use the Scotty Depthmaster
 


demonick

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Rav and I (I think Zee also) use the Scotty Depthmaster

The Depthmaster has a line counter - very, very useful.
demonick
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ballardbrad

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I use a Depthmaster on my Hobie PA.  I mounted it to the side rail with a Scotty Rail mount.  Great position though an 8 lb ball makes it tip towards the water a little.  Challenge is bringing the clip in while checking the line.  Must have my paddle handle ready to grab the cable.


ZeeHawk

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Rav and I (I think Zee also) use the Scotty Depthmaster
Yep, Depthmaster here too.

BB, careful w/ that 8# ball. I think only the PA can handle that much weight. 6# is the most I've had that feels comfortable. And even at that I snagged it once and got very scary fast.

Z
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ballardbrad

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I may be mistaken. I think I have a 6lb ball.  Still, safety is my biggest issue and why I went for the PA over other Hobie SOTs.  Thanks


tsquared

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Lee and Rav--thanks for  the pics and ideas with the crate for the downrigger. I think that is the way I am going to go on mine when I get a chance.
T2


haze grey

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Question about the ball weight......... I have used downriggers before but only on power boats. I was under the assumption that the ball should be heavier if you are trolling at higher speeds. When trolling in the kayak how fast are you able to paddle? Is the weight of the ball just for currents? Does anyone use a 4 lb ball? I have a 4 lb in the garage so that is what I plan on using, so will I need to buy a 6 lb?


Lee

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Depends how deep you're trolling.  I only use a 6lb in the salt now, 4# failed miserably for me, but works well enough in lakes at like 30-50ft down.  Deeper than that I use the 6# in freshwater too.  I've been thinking about adding an 8lb ball for places like Chelan, because I don't notice any instability with the 6 at all.

Make sure you rig your DR with braid line.  Less drag and easy to cut in an emergency.  I'm currently using 50lb braid, and I think Zee is using 25 (or was thinking about it).  I think 30 to 40lb power pro would work pretty well.
 


polepole

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My theory on freshwater, including deep water fishing in places like Chelan or Cle Elum is that 4# ball regulates your speed and keep you in the 1 mph range, which is what I target.  If I start getting blowback, I'm padding too fast.

I can see heavier coming into play in the salt where perhaps you want a faster troll or currents come into play.

I got a some extra DR weights that I should be selling shortly.  One is 4 pounds and one is 6-7 pounds (I think, need to weight it).  They were extras in lot I bought off ebay.  Torpedo shaped with a rear fin.

-Allen


Lee

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I'd be interested in that Torpedo if it's 6-7 lbs.  Do they REALLY have less drag?

I regulate my speed with the GPS.  But I also have a semi-functional DR, because I dropped it, and can't seem to get it adjusted.  It just works better with the 6lb ball.
 


ZeeHawk

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I agree w/ Pole, about 4# being good for most lakes. The lack of currents and slow trolling speeds allows a lighter weight. I still like 6# the most because the DR line will be nearly vertical in any situation. Using average trolling speeds of 1-2.5 mph in the sound I changed weight size and line weight and noticed something interesting. Changing the line weight had more effect on blowback than upping the weight. So staying at 6# for the ball and dropping line weight to 30# ended up w/ the best combo of drag and manageability.

BTW IME DR weight shape changes very little. The cheapo cannonball weight from the tackle shop works just at good as the "specialized" DR weights from DR manufacturers. That being said sure Pole's work just fine. ;)

Z
« Last Edit: September 30, 2010, 10:58:57 AM by Zee »
2010 Angler Of The Year
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polepole

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BTW IME DR weight shape changes very little. The cheapo cannonball weight from the tackle shop works just at good as the "specialized" DR weights from DR manufacturers. That being said sure Pole's work just fine. ;)

I didn't buy the torpedos because I wanted an optimized shape.  I bought the because I had been using a 4# rockfish weight (rectangular) and it was spinning.  I would have happily bought a round ball, but these came my way and I'll put them to use.   ;)

-Allen


wolverine

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 The best ball shape is round with a fin. The fin stops the ball from spinning and tangling up the release clip and line. Pancake wts plane out in the currents and fish shaped wts are useless. On my PA I use 6's with 65 lb braid. On the Whaler I use 12's with 150 lb braid. I use blowback angle as a visual indicator of proper gear working speed. Too little angle and the gears not working. Too much and the gears spinning too fast.


 

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