creek boat concepts

 I know that I should have started this project here.
Ive been trying to contribute on the NCKA site again (until we can move up north) but I really value the NWKA expertise and can use the help.

Here is the NCKA link.
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,28899.0.html
If you want to rush in waving the safety flag, please read the enitire thread first and understand that I am aware this is advanced dungeons and dragons, not the basic set. 
If you are ricky rescue and want to talk acceptable risk and trauma?
save it and please start another thread.
I bought my first kayak with my first paycheck from my first paramedic job 23 years ago. The EMS/rescue schedule and training have been a perfect compliment to my paddling adventure lifestyle and has allowed me the priviledge to be involved with more rescue situations than the justice league.
I am aware, bordering pre cog.
I just want some help with my boat

so what do you think?   can it work?

if i understand all that, you're attempting to rig a drift anchor on a creeker ?

I wondered how long it would take for someone to start a 1% er three patch club in kayak angling! Just kidding.
I have previous WW employment history, medical training, and recent combat medic training (Thanks Army Nat Guard -you rock). I think the Creek boat idea is cool. Would a stake out pole or a pressure clamp on a short rope work? Could you clamp on to a sweeper above you or a piece of rock for holding?  You must have seen some big fish holding in some pretty obcene water for this.  The big issue is you know you have to assume you are going to hang up, roll, your boat suddenly turned into a giant flatfish lure...
So how do you make it bomb proof?

I would make the whole system so it easily fails and breaks off at every point(zip ties) --and not have any rope in the hole. 
Cool idea!  Now I gotta get in on this cause I know where HUGE Bull Trout hang...
Outlaw Kayak Klub,
-Scott

I don't have any WW kayak experience,  but I do own a drift boat and use it,  the biggest problem I think you will find is as soon as you drop your anchor, the rear of your kayak will be pulled down and possible under the water.  Assuming that you keep your whole boat above water? trying to keep it strait in the current and under control could be fun.  When anchoring drift boats they act like pendulums in fast water, and can swing from side to side, depending on the balance of the boat and any changing direction of the currents.  Word to the wise, keep a sharp knife handy, because if things go bad they are going to go bad fast.  Good luck and ease into anchoring in slower currents first to see how your kayak handles it.

'spider, crazyeyes, have either of you looked over SPOTs drift anchor how to on the front page?

I have seen spot's drift anchor on the front page.  I'm sure anchoring a kayak in slower currents is probably obtainable, but anchoring in faster currents with a sit in kayak, it seems like flirting with disaster.  I suppose it's up to the captain of the boat to find that happy medium between anchoring up, and death.  it just seems to me like the wrong craft for the purpose, maybe a pontoon boat would be better suited for the purpose and in my opinion a safer option for drifting faster moving rivers. In my previous post I was just trying to convey the potential hazards that could happen when anchoring.  I don't think anyone of us want to see anyone headline the 5 o'clock news.  I don't want to seem like I'm high up on my soap box,  but I wanted to give my personal experience with a good wallop of caution.

So how do you make it bomb proof?

That really is THE question and "how do I make it functional?"
In an ideal state, the tube would be mounted inside the boat with only the ends exposed at the stern and my right flank. Since Im not willing to cut 2 tennis ball size holes in my WW boat, the system needs to be mounted externally.
The chain anchor and rope need to be completely incapsulated in the tube for runs, then easily deployed and retracted for fishing the calmer water between rapids.

The newest concept involves the tube and 2 or 3 chunks of shaped mini-cell.
The tube will be slid through holes cut into the mini cell and then mounted to the boat. Im working on attaching a cam cleat on the end of the tube to help with smoother ops.
Thanks for the zip tie idea!
It does need to break away when "the situation" happens and Im hoping the mini-cell will allow the whole system to float.
The success of this project depends on testing, then more testing, then alot more testing.
Ive also invisioned your flatfish analogy and we are going to reproduce that situation, in a "controlled" environment, to see how I perform.

I don't have any WW kayak experience

thank you for your thoughts

WR
SPOTs article is very informative. Thanks for the direction but that is not what Im interested in.
I have experience with 2 other drift systems.
The "gauntlet", which is similiar to the current project, and the more traditional style. My time using these sytems makes me beleive this is possible with the right paddler, solid risk assessment and management skills, and alot of work.

wow, Gauntlet looks like it was inspired during a night of heavy IPA ingestion..simple, genius, inspired and " why didnt i think of it before" all rolled into one.

we all need a starting point. you have that. plus.

i really hope you find what you are looking for here. yes we have inventive imaginative people. but not many have admitted to using a SInK or having WW experience. But, I'm sure many will watch this closely to see your progress, because you really have set the bar not high, but at a wayyy different angle.

Well hydrospider, it seems like you got it all figured out.  Just remember all kayakers come equipped with only one life,  so spend it wisely.

Keep it dirty side down. ---- Crazyeyes

a few concepts. Still, very much a work in progress and learning and adapting as I go.

I love a good project!

A creek boat ought to plane at anchor as well as any drifter...

The only part I see that I would be leery about is the arm extending so far aft of the  stern of the boat. It's a lever that's going to magnify the forces working against the boat. (It will also add extra weight behind the center of buoyancy, dragging the stern that much lower.) I would try and keep the end of the tube as close to the stern as possible, to reduce the lever effect and keep the stern from pearling below the water surface. Someone else mentioned keeping your weight forward at anchor, which will also help.

I use 30# of chain for anchoring a 14' raft. It's a bunch of short sections of smaller links (won't catch on wood or bedrock) hooked in the middle of the sections so that the ends dangle free. Smaller chain won't snag on the lip of the tube so easily, too.

Good luck! I want to hear a report and see pics from the sea trials!

Good luck and Godspeed Spider.

btw - Mildred Ratched called and she wants her gurney back after your Tarpon is feeling better. 

PS
you couldnt be more right. the arm needs to come back even more than I have on the latest evolution. thanks for the reconfirmation and even bigger thanks for the support of this project.
Ill keep updating the thread as things progress.

Good luck and Godspeed Spider.

btw - Mildred Ratched called and she wants her gurney back after your Tarpon is feeling better. 

Im not giving it back. Thats a new addition and I cant get over how functional its been. I wish I could get another but those old retired fernos are hard to come by.

That gurney is perfect for kayaks, I only crack wise because I'm jealous. I imagine that bad boy would come in handy for all types of projects. I wish I would have scored one back in the day when my old man and I used to cruise the OHSU surplus auctions.