North Fork Nehalem report

After deliberating a bit, I decided to hit the North Fork Nehalem this morning to do a little exploring and fishing.  I've fished the upper reaches of this river w/ light fly tackle before (for resident cutthroat), but never down low.  It had been highly recommended to me by a friend as a place to fish for sea-run cutthroat in Sept/Oct, and for its run of hatchery coho (which are willing to take a fly).

Got up at 5 this morning to make the drive over (roughly 1.5 hours), took me a while to get everything loaded and ready (in my neighborhood, leaving a kayak on the roof of you rig is not a good idea).  Encountered a nasty fog bank about 25 miles from the coast, but the most dangerous thing on the drive over was the idiot in the brand new monster Ford pickup towing a Boston Whaler over highway 53.  This road consists of about 15 miles of hairpin turns, and this guy got behind me and decided he wanted to go 65 on it (signs posted with 20 mph warnings for some of the turns).  Flashing his lights, the works... I pulled off to let him pass.  Hopefully he didn't kill someone down the road.  He REALLY wanted to get to the water in time to hit the slack tide.

Anyway, I ended up putting in at the town of Nehalem (behind the island) at about 8:00, and heading up the bay on the incoming tide.  Sun came out and it turned into a gorgeous day.  Marked a few fish on the sonar just below the confluence of the main Nehalem and North Fork, but nothing was willing to take my spinner (or anyone elses).  Headed on up the North Fork, and was happily surprised to find it pretty pristine (at least along the water).  A few houses, but for the first 3-4 miles it was vine maple, alder, and sitka spruce right down to the water.  About 2 miles up from the confluence it deepens, and I started marking fish in every bend in the channel (from big guys, that I assume were chinook, to lots and lots of little guys that I took to be sea-run cutts.)  I actually saw a few cutties rise during the day.

I tried fishing for the 'nooks in these deep holes with bobber and eggs, but despite putting in 5 hours of fishing, I was skunked.  Nary a nibble.  New I shoulda brought that fly rod...

Still, I can't complain.  Spectacular weather, pretty river, lots of critters out (including some curious harbor seals).  Hit a nasty head wind (the Nehalem is known for that) on the way back, so I got quite a workout to.

The North Fork strikes me as a perfect kayak fishing locale, if the fish were willing.  No one had much luck today, and it seems fishing on the Nehalem has been slow all fall.  There is a put in up near the head of tidewater (Aldervale) that would be a nice spot to plan a trip for sea-runs next year.  Put in at high, float down and fish, then head back up on the incoming.

Darn 3wt, I feel for you!  That is a gorgeous area. We usually spend some time in that neighborhood every year (but this one ). We either camp at the state park or rent in Manzanita. Did you see any elk?

I've done well in the past along the mainstem, for the cutts.

Have you tried trolling herring or spinners down by the Jetty Fishery, near the mouth? I haven't, but have heard good things about it.

Nice Report 3wt.  I've been wanting to do some Kayaking in that area, but know nothing about the fishing there - sounds like it can be tough, but at least the nice scenery always makes the trip worth it. 

After some cautions from this board, I've been rethinking my kayak fishing gear and am trying to get my cold water gear together, else I'd like to try to throw some flies with ya.  My girlfriend got a 15% REI coupon, so may just order a Kokatat SuperNova in order to be ready for some of tidewater fishing.

As it was I drove out to Maupin to play with my Spey rod on the Deschutes and caught the same number of fish that you did.  It was a beautiful weekend though and at least I got out and stole one more nice day.  Did see a guy on the other side of the river (why is it always the other side - that's why I love kayaking), pull in a nice huge fish though - so they are in there if you know what you're doing (I don't).

One error in my report... Aldervale is actually down at the confluence of the North Fork and main Nehalem, so one would want to launch at low slack and ride the incoming northwards, then reverse direction on the outgoing.

I have not fished the "jaws" on Nehalem Bay at the jetty, but I know folks who do and have good luck.  The Nehalem actually gets a small summer chinook run, and I know a guy who caught a 30# chinook out of one of the rental boats back in August, trolling herring along the jetties.  I'd be a little nervous trying my kayak there, as conditions can get nasty along that bar.  Of course, on the right day it should be no problem.

How were the crowds on the Deschutes yesterday?

Nice report TW!  Did you make it up as far as the green bridge?

Next time up, try casting Blue Fox spinners.  Cast upstream.  Let 'em sink to the bottom and then retrieve really slow. 

I got to Maupin about 9am, and didn't see hardly anybody along Deschutes in the morning, but by the afternoon there was a lot more traffic and fishermen.  Still it's a big river and plenty of river to explore.  I only got crowded once, and it was more my fault than the other guy's, so I let him have the run. The campsites seemed to have about 10% occupancy from what I saw, but a bit cold for most campers. 

I've not taken my yak out to the Tidewater yet, but looking forward to it.  A whole new way to get skunked fishing.

Didn't make it all the way to the bridge, but I got close (could see it in the distance.)  I stopped at a spot where new metal telephone towers were being put in over the river... at high slack, it was 15-18 ft deep in a bend there, and I was marking some bigger fish hanging out a few feet off the bottom.  Was quite surprised at how clear the water was up there... a good 6-7 feet in visibility.

I've cast spinners like that for coho/chinook up in moving water on a river... a good strategy down in tidewater to?  I had a whole box full of blue fox spinners and spoons, but didn't try any of them there.

Slbrow6, that's the great thing about the Deschutes... gajillion people, but none of them want to walk more than a mile our spend the night in the cold.  I love fishing for trout during the blue winged olive hatches in the winter, while everyone else is steelheading.  I bought a winter-weight sleeping bag just for that.

On the cold weather kayaking gear... I went with an Extrasport dry top from Next Adventure ($170 bucks, retail was supposed to be $280), and wear it in combination with my Patagonia waders.  The dry top has a long inner section that is supposed to go inside a spray skirt, then an neoprene waist thing with velcro that you can cinch down.  I wore it over my waders, with a wading belt over the inter layer cinched down tight, then the outer part of the top w/ the neoprene and velcro cinched down tight over that. 

Thankfully, I didn't go for a swim and test it.

Only real complaint I had with that set up was my footwear (some cheap slip-on neoprene water shoes that kept coming off in the mud).  I also had a problem with my feet going to sleep while peddaling my Hobie, but that may be due to my seat.

"I'd be a little nervous trying my kayak there, as conditions can get nasty along that bar."

I hear you. The ocean is challenge enough without a ripping good current. Still... maybe late summer on a calm day?

The solution to the bar area is just working the tides properly. A lot of the fishing is actually inside quite a ways.