Need rod/reel advice

I run the 65 lb braid, as well.  It is tough to break, but it can be done if needed.  I have 50 lb on a different reel and they both work well.

I'm curious, everyone keeps talking about breaking braid which puts rods, reels and fishermen at risk, but no one talks about just using their rescue knife to cut it. Please enlighten me...

I'm curious, everyone keeps talking about breaking braid which puts rods, reels and fishermen at risk, but no one talks about just using their rescue knife to cut it. Please enlighten me...

I keep my knife smartly attached to my pfd, exactly where my KA-BAR used to be on my flight jacket so grabbing it is instinctive. I hope to never have to cut my way out of a huli gone bad or a fish with an attitude, but will slice and dice without a second thought if it means surviving a situation gone bad.

If I cut my line I could easily lose 100' or more fishing the deep holes. You would quickly be out of braid. Plus you are creating a snag hazzard. That line will be there for many years. Popping the 30lb was pretty easy.

I understand, I was referring to those who use 80+ lb line who struggle to break it and risk a Huli. I'd have a lighter topshot to save the main line, is that a good solution?


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Guys think about it a minute. Is any fish really worth your life? Yes build in a weak link into Your rigging. I know lead is expensive but would you rather lose a sinker or everything else including possibly your life?

Lighter topshot answer is Yes IMHO

A lighter top shot is a solution.  I try to break it in hope that the knot breaks, or I bend my hook out of whatever I snagged.  Like PDXfisher, I don't want to leave a lot of line in the water if I don't have to.

Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 6600 C3 LD  (Used Only Once, Lever drag instead of star drag) with 30 lb Spectra braid line.  Right hand. Comes with box and directions, lube, and tool. Cast button is right next to spool to easy cast and thumb to avoid backlash.  Very few of these were made because company felt many people thought they were expensive and didn’t fully understand the lever drag concept.

From the schematic it appears this reel does not have a magnetic brake like the star drag 6600 C4 Ambassadeurs.  Yes, back in the day level winds did not have magnetic brakes and folks learned to cast them.  It was also why the spinning reels took off in the market place.  Learning to cast a level wind without a magnetic break can be extremely frustrating.  Also, "very few of these were made" because customers preferred something else.  Personally, if your plan is to use this for casting, I'd walk and hold out for something else. 

While this is not too much of an issue, the more recent Abus are NOT manufactured in Sweden.  They may be designed and assembled in Sweden, but the parts are made in the third world.  Some have likely never been near Sweden. 

From Outdoor Emporium for $100 you could get a new 6600C4 and for $80 you could get a new 8'6" Berkley IM8 Xtra Heavy and have a jack-of-all-trades rig. 

From Outdoor Emporium for $100 you could get a new 6600C4 and for $80 you could get a new 8'6" Berkley IM8 Xtra Heavy and have a jack-of-all-trades rig.

Thanks!  That is now on my Xmas list.

The other day I was in BiMart and I think that they had the Berkley 8.5' XHvy on sale for about $65 (do not remember the exact price). I think it may be listed in the BiMart little book you get in the mail.

As for reels, about 1/2 of my casting reels lack a magnetic brake (before magnetic brakes invented). The one thing that is true is that if you crank the mag down you can eliminate backlashes, but at the expense of distance. The nice thing about magnetic brake reels is that they usually have a pretty wide tuning range and you can ease your way into educating your thumb.

However, I would not be too afraid of not having a magnetic brake. The main trick that I learned long ago is to watch your line as your lure/bait is flying out. If you see it start to slack add some thumb. The slack indicates the spool is pushing out line faster than the lure/bait is taking it and an overrun is beginning to develop. It does not take too long to get the hang of it. Plus, a backlash every now and again helps keep you humble and gives you time to reflect on the nicer things in life - while swearing at your reel

If you buy today, you get 20% off your entire order and free shipping.  Internet only.  Here is a Abu C4 for $109:

http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4471124&cp=4406646.4413993.4414792.4414796

I have to admit that I have 65# braid on my Sturgeon reel.  While out with Hop an anchor snagged my line as it owner was motoring it up. The resulting tug of war was eye opening because of the effort needed to break the line.  The surprising part was that it was metal snap that connected the braided leader to the braided line that finally broke. I actually bent the wire to where it came out of the snap

I have decided to replace my Kayak reels with 30# braid.

Stevehawk

The other day I was in BiMart and I think that they had the Berkley 8.5' XHvy on sale for about $65 (do not remember the exact price). I think it may be listed in the BiMart little book you get in the mail.

Unfortunately, except for near the OR border all the BiMarts in WA are on the dry side.

Ditto what you said about casting a levelwind - except the part about backlashes.  They are a character-building exercise I could do without I've gotten pretty good untangling them, but they ALWAYS seem to occur when the fish are biting.

I have to admit that I have 65# braid on my Sturgeon reel.  While out with Hop an anchor snagged my line as it owner was motoring it up. The resulting tug of war was eye opening because of the effort needed to break the line.  The surprising part was that it was metal snap that connected the braided leader to the braided line that finally broke. I actually bent the wire to where it came out of the snap

I have decided to replace my Kayak reels with 30# braid.

Stevehawk

I know zero about sturgeon fishing but unless you need the super thin line, I'd consider sticking with the 65 pound braid.  Much easier to handle and much less "snap" resistant.  What I mean by that is a sudden shock for whatever reason seems to fairly easily snap the thinner braid. 

My suggestion would be to us a section of 30 pound mono somewhere.  I use 50 pound braid even for light salmon duty as it lasts forever and I can always scale down the leader somewhere.  I guess if you wrap an anchor line, it may still be attached to the 65 pound section but really how often does that happen?  If the answer is more than once a decade, you may need to use thinner line.  But if the experience is a fluke, but you still want the line to be able to break, 99% of the time, I'd at least consider keeping the 65 pound line.  Besides, that stuff is EXPENSIVE!

I'd be curious to know what other think about this....

The heavier then better! 85# min ... for trout and summer steely I scale back to 65.