Trailer build - HF build - Explorer Box type camp/kayak trailer

Ok, as much as I enjoy cartopping my PA on the jeep, I learned at ORC that my camping/Kayaking setup is just inefficient and costs a ton more in gas.  I can usually get about 300 miles on a tank in my jeep on my freeway trips, and with the PA on top subtract almost 100 miles.  Towing a trailer will save me gas in the long run as it will be light and even when done will draft behind the Jeep much better than having to cut it's own path through the wind.  Having to pay attention to the trailer speed limits also will help a bit. 

I don't have Insayn's metal workng skills or tools, so this will be a build based on the popular Expolorer Box with my own design tweaks mixed in.

HF has this guy on sale, so I am picking one up this weekend to get started with.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1090-lb-capacity-40-1-2-half-inch-x-48-inch-mini-utility-trailer-with-12-inch-four-lug-wheels-and-tires-90153.html

I have a great friend I am trying to get into kayak fishing who is a custom cabinet maker and will be utilizing his help and hopefully some of his tools to assist with the build.

I figured I would do a step by step to keep me motivated and to share the process with others that might want to know about what goes into a simple trailer build. 

I am going to try to build on the cheap, but not going to sacrifice on things that will make camping or transporting my PA more difficult.

I will have questions along the way and I hope our resident trailer fab members will help out.

Olyspec,

In my opinion, the trailer frames at HF are made of stamped metal and are prone to rattling apart. If you go onto CL you will find much better starter frames for the same price or a few bucks more.  These will most likely be welded and made out of tube steel.  If you are patient, you can even pick up one that will suit you needs for a good price.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/for/3097598341.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/rvs/3099724440.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/bar/3099485275.html

Just some ideas!

Wobbler

Kind of hard to see but I like the way I've got this set up at the moment.  Went to the salvage yard and got some extra rails ($20) to mount on the trailer base. Now I can switch the rack from the trailer to the top of the truck in a few minutes.

Where's the Outback?

Wobble

Nice Justin! 

I am actually going to use 4" pvc covered with carpet mounted to the top of the trailer to support the PA.  I thought about getting some jeep rails from pick/n/pull and using the bars, but the added expense is not what I am looking for.  I can get the PVC, carpet, and hardware for less than the rails and new bases and support the PA full hull rather than just on the two bars.

Wobbler - I have considered the options and heard about the rattling apart issues.  Most of the issues I have read about could be avoided with some locktite and care during assembly.  I also like that I can start with an easily modifiable kit that I don't have to spend weeks busting rust on, cutting, welding, etc.... before I can start actually using it.

The only real mod to the trailer itself I will be doing is getting a longer tongue to make it easier to back up and to have a truck box on the frame ahead of the explorer box.

I think you should get the longer trailer though.  4'x4' will have your PA hanging off quite a long ways.  Go for the 4'x8'

Nice catch Justin...wrong link to start off with.  This is the starter  http://www.harborfreight.com/1195-lb-capacity-48-inch-x-96-inch-heavy-duty-foldable-utility-trailer-with-12-inch-wheels-90154.html

mucho better-o

I'd also recommend getting some bearing buddies for it.  It's a lot easier to monitor the amount of grease in the bears.  Especially if you are going on a longer trip.

Nothing to add, only subbing this thread as I want to see this project come together!

Nice Justin! 

I am actually going to use 4" pvc covered with carpet mounted to the top of the trailer to support the PA.  I thought about getting some jeep rails from pick/n/pull and using the bars, but the added expense is not what I am looking for.  I can get the PVC, carpet, and hardware for less than the rails and new bases and support the PA full hull rather than just on the two bars.

Wobbler - I have considered the options and heard about the rattling apart issues.  Most of the issues I have read about could be avoided with some locktite and care during assembly.  I also like that I can start with an easily modifiable kit that I don't have to spend weeks busting rust on, cutting, welding, etc.... before I can start actually using it.

The only real mod to the trailer itself I will be doing is getting a longer tongue to make it easier to back up and to have a truck box on the frame ahead of the explorer box.

Oly, I would reconsider the truck box on the tongue part.  Those trailers are made of some pretty light gauge steel and will happily flex themselves to the point of fatigue failure at the most inopportune time.  What I would suggest is that you put the truck box on one side of the trailer deck, and the kayak on the other. You could also put rod lockers under the kayak.

That's the same trailer I use for the TI. Put a 3/4" plywood sheet for a bed & bolt 4x4x8' beams with vinyl lattice for a cradle. The PA is 4 1/2 feet shorter and 70 lbs lighter, should be great. I added an 18" tongue extension, you probably won't need it.

Here are a few pics of the trailer I am working on right now. The towers are adjustable up and down and can slide forward and back. The whole basket and tower scenario can be mounted on any trailer frame.

We have mounted just the towers on a utility trailer with quick release pins. Sort of makes a dual use trailer. Just some thoughts...

Wobbler

I'm still trying to figure out how I can build a tower that will lift up.

I'd like the kayak to ride low most of the time but if I want to take both yaks or load my 4 wheeler under the yak.....  I wish I owned a welder.

I'm still trying to figure out how I can build a tower that will lift up.

I'd like the kayak to ride low most of the time but if I want to take both yaks or load my 4 wheeler under the yak.....  I wish I owned a welder.

You might be able to get away with a frog leg type of lift type setup on each corner without needing a welder. 
It would all depend on how you go about keeping it from twisting and how you make it lock in the upright position.

____  Lowered

>   <  Mid lift  (length of each frog leg will determine half the overall height)

|     |  Lifted

I made the towers removable and adjustable on a previous version, On the side of the trailer, we put 2 foot receiver tubes and a pinch type lock nut. This allowed us to raise the kayaks just above a 4 wheel vehicle. With a flatbed you could bolt on a telescoping version of the same thing.  Come up to Portland and we'll give it a try!  The owner on this version put on The end saddles for a dual purpose. I personally would leave off the upturns.

Wobbler