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Picture Of The Month



Guess who's back?
jed with a spring Big Mack

Topic: LOWRANCE DSI INTERNAL WATER BOX  (Read 5811 times)

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Ling Banger

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Lincoln Beach, OR
  • Date Registered: Feb 2010
  • Posts: 2589
That's a pretty damn good design. The only downside is the FP method it takes temp readings a long time to get close to accurate. If you again encapsulate the sensor it would be more difficult. Let us know how that function works.

 
"We're going to go fishing
And that's all there is to it." - R.P. McMurphy


searobin

  • Krill
  • *
  • Location: oak harbor, whidbey island
  • Date Registered: Aug 2011
  • Posts: 13
That's a pretty damn good design. The only downside is the FP method it takes temp readings a long time to get close to accurate. If you again encapsulate the sensor it would be more difficult. Let us know how that function works.

Ling Banger,
I'm with you, I think it will take awhile to stabilize to the correct temp if it will at all. I would be happy if it read withing 10 degrees of the true temp. Being that I'm new to the area, I'm not sure how critical water temp is to catching fish here in the cold water northwest. Back in VA I could predict what species of fish was biting by water temp.

maybe I could use a fridgerator thermometer dangling off the kayak in the water as a reference to see how much it is off and how long it takes to get to the correct temp.

Tight Lines!

Robin
« Last Edit: June 27, 2012, 07:00:35 PM by searobin »


searobin

  • Krill
  • *
  • Location: oak harbor, whidbey island
  • Date Registered: Aug 2011
  • Posts: 13
I just pulled my DSI Tee PVC mount out to take better pics of the build. The tools I used to build this was a bench top belt sander a 10" band saw and a dremel tool with the small drum sander attachment on it.

     I trimmed down the aft slip in 1"to 3/4" reducer (I found out later this was unnecessary). I put about a 45 degree bevel on it with my bench belt sander. I used the dremel to open up the inside neck of the aft 3/4" slip in plug so I could partially slip the transducer into it. you can put a little sealant or epoxy on this if you think it will slip back out.
     
     The forward slip in reducer I left at original length and put a 45 degree bevel on it. The forward plug i left at original length. I do not think the sonar heads extend that far into the nose of the transducer. I needed to have an opening cut into the forward plug for the transducer cable to exit the enclosure, I did this with the bandsaw.
     
     The Tee fitting I sanded off 3/8" off the bottom of the Tee fitting with the belt sander. I did not touch it's length.

Assembly:

While assembling it use a little silicone sealant on each of the pieces to make it waterproof.
1. put both slip in reducers in the Tee fitting.
2. Slide the transducer into the Tee fitting.
3. Put the aft plug in the aft reducer making sure to push the transducer securely into the neck of the aft plug.
4. Slip the forward plug onto the transducer cable then slide the plug into the reducer.   

Tight Lines!

Robin
« Last Edit: June 27, 2012, 07:02:29 PM by searobin »


Noah

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Cabby Strong!
  • Location: Tigard
  • Date Registered: Mar 2011
  • Posts: 3596
Awesome, thanks. So the transducer doesn't actually make contact with the hull? You could also probably run the transducer cord through the top and put in a rubber stopper. Awesome design though.
« Last Edit: June 27, 2012, 06:05:56 PM by Noah »


searobin

  • Krill
  • *
  • Location: oak harbor, whidbey island
  • Date Registered: Aug 2011
  • Posts: 13
Thanks for the Approval Noah.

I like it because it is small and can easily be protected with a piece of custom cut foam placed over it. Even if it does come off you will only have about 2 tablespoons of water in your hold. I will try remounting it with plummer's puddy and see how that works for sunday. I will keep you all posted on deep water testing too.

Tight Lines!

Robin


searobin

  • Krill
  • *
  • Location: oak harbor, whidbey island
  • Date Registered: Aug 2011
  • Posts: 13
hello,

Well I re-mounted the transducer Tee fitting with only plummer's putty to see if that would be an alternative to gluing. I did not even glue the pieces together just dry assembled and packed the puddy around it.

After filling it with water I went crabbing today in crescent harbor for a few hours. it worked very well, the display showed weed beds, fish, schools of bait fish, crab pots and the lines going to the pots with good detail.

when I got back to shore the Tee fitting was still filled with water. the deepest i went was only 40 feet but i have no doubt it will work as advertised in 180+ feet of water. the only negative thing i noticed was that i had mounted the transducer too far forward for the sea conditions. the display would show a vertical black line whenever the bow come out of the water. this did not happen often and only when i was going into the waves.

the water conditions in the harbor were about 1' chop with wind blown whitecaps.

I tried to find some salmon heads/bellies last minute with no joy so I used some pig tails with good success.

Robin   


 

anything