waterproofing FF cables run thru hatch

I know this has been asked and answered a million times before, but for some reason I can't find any of the posts!

So, what I want to do with my new FF is fix the mount to the front hatch (drill it right in), and run the power and transducer cables right thru from inside the yak (there is a hole in the center of the mount for this purpose).  What I was thinking of doing was to drill two small holes in the hatch just big enough for the cables to get through (tight fit), and then seal the top and bottom with marine goop.  I've had decent luck waterproofing wire pass-thrus like this in the past.

The power cable is easy, since within it there's just red and a black wire (pos and neg).  Since that cable needs to be spliced anyway, I will just run it thru the hatch, glue the cable around the hole and splice after.

It's the transducer cable I am concerned about.  I either have to a) drill a hole big enough for the whole transducer plug to get through (large potential for water to get in) OR cut the cable, feed it through a small hole, marine goop it as described above, and splice it back together inside the yak.  But, I've never cut a transducer cable, and I don't know what's inside.  I am concerned about the transducer not working, or not working properly, after the cut-and-splice.  Anyone have experience with this?

My ultimate goal is to have a compact, easy-to-manage ff system....because I hate all the hassle that electronics seem to require.  The FF is mount will be drilled right into the hatch.  The body comes off with a quick-release button so I can wash/store it.  The power and transducer plugs are fixed within the mount and their cables go thru hatch plastic...transducer has a short cable down inside the hull where the transducer if gooped to the bottom.  Power has a very short cable leading to a small waterproof case containing the legendary blue brick li-ion battery that is velcroed to the inside of the hatch (keeping it off the bottom where is could be compromised by saltwater).

At the end of a trip all I need to do is quick-release the FF head (for cleaning) pull up the hatch, disconnect the power wire and rip the small battery case off the velcro (to go charge it).

Does that seem like a good plan?  It's just that damn transducer cable that's the big question mark.

I use a rubber plug that allowed me to cut a large hole then seal it completely. Low cost and very effective.

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All I have read, via this and other forums, sez not to cut/splice the transducer cable. So you are stuck with a larger hole...

I used an antenna feed thru from west marine, it required a larger hole and some goop to assure a good seal. Afterwards, I thought to use a black rubber cork. A small hole drilled thru the center, and just incise one side, a little goop and you're ready to go ( for about 15 cents...)

Yeah, unless you really know what you're doing when it comes to splicing many different types of wires, I'd leave the 'ducer cable alone.   I have been using a rubber stopper for a while now and I'm very happy with it.

Rory, you can still do the mount the way you plan it, and just run the transducer cable up under the hatch using the rubber gasket as the seal.  Zip tie it to the power cable that you drilled a hole for and it will stay out of the way.  (I'm assuming outbacks have that rubber gasket under the front hatch like Revos do...)

These are the rubber stoppers I use. Drill a small hole, smaller than your wire, then stretch the plug and push your cable through. Works great and damn near water tight with out goop.


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These are the rubber stoppers I use. Drill a small hole, smaller than your wire, then stretch the plug and push your cable through. Works great and damn near water tight with out goop.


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Your transducer plug fits thru that? And what section if the hardware store did you find that?

If you want to go the splice route, the best solution is to connectorize it. I do this type of thing often on all kinds of cables. The reason there are warnings against is because if you solder splice it, you are guaranteed to end up with an unsightly mess, and if you use connectors, you run the risk of crossing wires - that is fairly common. You can buy submersible rated small connectors that are easy to use. I use Bulgin brand connectors. They are inexpensive and work well.

http://www.bulgin.co.uk/Products/Buccaneer/BuccaneerMini.html

I bought them from some on-line electronics place - I am leaving for the weekend, but will look up where I bought them come Monday, if you are interested.

I used a strain relief cord connector doohickey from the local hardware store and just run my transducer cable through that, but those rubber stoppers fungunnin has look like a more watertight option.

Google "waterproof cable glands".



Many types and sizes available, use them for watertight connections for video and camera cables. As far as cutting a transducer cable, no problems using quick connectors or splicing, as long as you make sure the wires are properly insulated so you don't get induction interference.

Rory,

You could take your ducer to a hardware store or a lowes / home depot and ask to see a variety of rubber grommets. You may find something fairly cheap thats not labor intensive and then not have to worry about cutting the cable. Just use a dab of goop on the edge, and maybe some around where the wire goes through. You could get one with a small hole for cable, but then slice it to fit ducer through, then seal it back up with silicone. The one at the bottom of this image looks exactly like what ya might need.

Don't cut the cable.  DAMHIK

Haha, just as i had the scisssors in my hand...

Ok, I like the grommet method. I'll go see what i can dig up at the hardware store. Thanks bros!

I used a waterproof connector from west marine.. I still had to splice the transducer wire as the plug didn't fit through. but I soldered and shrink tubed and it works perfect. I believe cuda lowrance and maybe cuda or something wires fit but make sure it does before you buy. or you'll be doing

Rory,
Before you cut / paste/drill/bend/glue/or whatever else get with Bryce. He put together a "spinal cord" type system that he ran under the hatch rims. Seems to work well.