OK flush mount pull out

Time for this issue to resurface...

One week before the 2010 ORC and I find a hole behind my seat, one screw for the flush mount rod holder pulled through. All the other screws for both mounts just spin.   What a surprise!!! After extracting the first one, I looked at the design and decided it was great for a fast install but not designed to take any upward force. Hmmm, I really shouldn't have huli'd on the way in last time at PC.    The screw runs through a rubber socket with a small, treaded insert in the bottom. As the screw is tightened, the socket compresses, forming a water-resistant seal. It seems it would be easy to overtighten the screw and cause the insert to tear the rubber socket. This would allow the screw to turn freely with no way to tighten, loosen or remove.   



water-resistant gasket





Since Alkasazi (Brian) was kind enough to install the big hatch just forward of the seat, I was able to barely reach the inserts and stabilize them with my fingers while the power drill removed the screws. What a crappy design for anything besides installation ease. I have plenty of SS hardware and Goop. I'm off to the hardware store for some rubber gasket material. I'm not going to mess with the other mount until after ORC but it will definitely be replaced.

Just a heads up to all the other OK owners...Check those screws! I believe Spot said the same thing about a year or so ago. Too bad the warning wasn't heeded then.  

Jay

pics added

I found three screws that weren't snugged up all the way when I was checking out my kayak before buying it.  I have since added a drop of 5200 to the csrews and put them back in and let them dry for a week.  No Leaks!!!

Jay, that was on my "To Do" list to upgrade this winter.  Somehow I got distracted and installed another flush mount next to my sonar shield.  Wierd how that happens.  Hopefully mine will stay put till I actually go to change them out. 

Site sanded and prepped



I had to custom cut/sand each fender washer as the screw holes were very large to fit the original compression screws. The fender edges need to fit the contour of the mounting block and not impede the rod holder. Since they had a rubber gasket under them, I reused the washers on top of the rod mount. I replaced the compression screws with a nylock nut.



All gooped up and ready to roll. I was able to reach the most forward screw fairly easily. The rear and inboard ones were another story. The fender washers had to be oriented just right, the nylock nut had to be started and then I could take my arm back out, grab a box end wrench for the nut and get the drill on the screw head. If my arms were 2 inches shorter I could not have done it.



All done with most of the excess Goop wiped away.

I'm not looking forward to doing this again.   

Jay

Steelheadr are you Stretch Armstrong?    How on earth did you get your arm all the way back there from the bow hatch?  Do you have another hatch cut out somewhere?

Edit: Nevermind... I just reread the OP.  Did you cut out the factory hatch in front of the seat and put in a bigger one?  Mine is solid and doesn't penetrate the hull.

The way I invision my attack with my T13 won't include me reaching in from any hatches.  What I'm gunna do is make a paper template from the rod holder orientation and screw hole orientation to use for the Goop step.

Pull everything out, sand the backside of each screw hole with small piece of 36 grit through the larger hole using just my finger(s). 

Then tape my template over the holes so I know EXACTLY where to Goop down some fender washers (may need to cosmetically adjust shape of said washers). 

Toss the yak up on to the yak trailer upside down. 

Now the fun part.  Apply Goop to each washer, and slip them each one by one through the large opening, and press them into place.  Being ever so careful to get my holes lined up center with template.

Allow this to cure overnight.

Flip kayak back over and put at a workable height again.

Apply rubber gasket (made via the template), add copious amounts of Goop to the rod holder and drop it in.
Line it up over the mounting holes, and shoot kayak friendly rivets through and catch the fender washers from the backside. 

Allow squeezed out Goop to cure, and trim with X-acto blade.   



Keep in mind this is all in theory, and the outcome may prove different. 

Steelheadr are you Stretch Armstrong?    How on earth did you get your arm all the way back there from the bow hatch?  Do you have another hatch cut out somewhere?

Edit: Nevermind... I just reread the OP.  Did you cut out the factory hatch in front of the seat and put in a bigger one?  Mine is solid and doesn't penetrate the hull.

I bought the yak as a slightly used, repair job from Brian. He had already cut and installed the hatch in front of the seat. It is rather large. I am able to get my spare paddle out from the hull very easily.

The way I invision my attack with my T13 won't include me reaching in from any hatches.  What I'm gunna do is make a paper template from the rod holder orientation and screw hole orientation to use for the Goop step.

Pull everything out, sand the backside of each screw hole with small piece of 36 grit through the larger hole using just my finger(s). 

Then tape my template over the holes so I know EXACTLY where to Goop down some fender washers (may need to cosmetically adjust shape of said washers). 

Toss the yak up on to the yak trailer upside down. 

Now the fun part.  Apply Goop to each washer, and slip them each one by one through the large opening, and press them into place.  Being ever so careful to get my holes lined up center with template.

Allow this to cure overnight.

Flip kayak back over and put at a workable height again.

Apply rubber gasket (made via the template), add copious amounts of Goop to the rod holder and drop it in.
Line it up over the mounting holes, and shoot kayak friendly rivets through and catch the fender washers from the backside. 

Allow squeezed out Goop to cure, and trim with X-acto blade.   



Keep in mind this is all in theory, and the outcome may prove different. 

That's what I did on my OK.  Worked great!

I've been using cherry rivets for installing flush mounts where there's no back access to tighten a nut.

They're like molly, or drywall screws...they expand to fill the hole. that combined with a neo-foam gasket and mondo bond, and they are bomb proof.

Looks like I've got two projects now.  I hate the factory hatch/cup; no matter what I try it isn't watertight and is too small to be useful.

Looks like I've got two projects now.  I hate the factory hatch/cup; no matter what I try it isn't watertight and is too small to be useful.

I took a sharpie, drew a line about an inch below the lip and cut out the useless tray. I have interior access from the bow hatch, "rod pod' and big hatch just forward of the seat.

Mine are riveted in. Bought it last year, I guess that makes it either 2009 or 2010 model, I don't really know. I'm guessing all yours are older?

I wonder if you could make a doubler, for lack of a better term, to reinforce the Flush mounts?  Cut a a piece of 1/4" HDPE to be on the back side instead of fender washers.  Goop it in and line up the new rubber gasket and install the hardware on the flush mount.  I'll make one at work on Monday to explain better what I am saying!

I can totally invision what you are planning.  The hard part will be getting it back there.  Your arms most likely won't reach from the rod pod, and it will be bigger than the hole. 

One option would be to cut a splt in one side and poke a leading edge through the hole and then continue to rotate the rest of the piece through. I'd also suggest tieing some fishing line to it so you can just work it through the hole while the yak is upright, and you can dry fit it, pull it back out, dry fit it, rinse and repeat. 
Then drive it back through for the final assembly, tie off the line to a pad eye. Flip the yak over so gravity is now your friend.  Apply goop to the affected area, and use the fishing line to retrieve the piece from wherever it wandered while flipping the yak.  Line it up where ya want it in the goop and let it set.