Anchor trolley

I also incorporated the (Bsteves?) alternate rope color to know how much anchor line is out (50',100',100').

I actually just marked mine with a sharpie in  roman numeral-esque fashion....   Long dashes = 50 and short dashes = 10.. i.e. ----  -  -  -  = 80,    ----  ----  ----  ----  -  -  = 220

Another idea is color coding.  100's red, 50's green, 10's black.  RRGBB = 270'.  RBBB = 130'.

I've got everything finished except the cleat and will go for an anchor tryout tomorrow.  I used bsteve's design.  I'll tie off the anchor line to the carry handle with a slip knot until I can get the zig-zag cleat I am looking for.  I'll post how the system and I work out. 

By the way, if someone is setting up an anchor trolley and you are interested in using pulleys, the best price I've found for Harken 29mm carbo cheeks is (surprisingly) West Marine at a little less than $11 each.  If you want to use wide-flair rivets to mount, the mounting holes need to be carefully reamed slightly.  I had to use rivets at the stern due to lack of accessibility.

Finished setting up my simplified anchor "trolley" last night. I need to test it but so far i'm very happy with how it turned out.

Clipped on Bow and stern trolley lines, zig zag cleats for the trolley lines on both sides of the boat, and 3lb folding anchor with bungee float and 100feet of line.  Probably will have to get a bigger float for faster water but this one fit into my anchor bag ;-)

I see that there are various ways to set this up.

I have a full-length trolley on my Ultimate 12 as I often like to anchor in creeks and rivers when heading upstream and be connected from the bow so that I can fly cast to river left (heading upstream).
I am right handed, and I have my trolley set up on the right side of my boat.
When I am finished casting to a lie on the left side of my U-12 (facing upstream), I can trolley the anchor to the stern. The bow swings around downstream and I can now cast to the other side of the river without having to pull and reset my anchor or use a "backhanded" cast.
I clip my spool/buoy to a large solid stainless ring, so that if and when I hook up to a monster, I can unclip it quickly and let it float while I (hopefully) go for a sleigh ride.

On my new Tarpon 140, I am just setting up a trolley from the center of the boat to the stern for now, as I figure that I will want to be facing down current, when there is current, or downwind on a lake. I don't plan to use this craft when fishing tidal creeks and smaller rivers, as the Ultimate 12 is much better suited for fishing those waters, so I am not worried about being able to anchor facing upstream. For now, anyway. 
I am going to rig up a completely different anchor and bigger line-spool for the Tarpon, as this boat is for the big water. 

1.5 inch worth of sea board block, belt sander rounded next to hull. Clip off the ring for f/length tow rope.

Subb'd a fat knot for wire rope clips pictured after nylon ball stops on s/cord. Hatched my stern well for better access. All came out tight and straight and extra stiffl. Hand planed sea board backer to Suncor pad eyes. Easily spent a third of what I spent on my ex rental from 'Nooks crew.

Surfanor-
I like the colors for the rope on the trolley, I'm going to try and find that to match my yak colors.  It looks like a sharp setup.  I will suggest you tie a line to your anchor line float after deployment, just in case it disappears under the water.  I have the same anchor and also had the same float.  Anchor is great, the small float was not sufficient, I have a crab ring float now.  I also added a cord reel from Bi-Mart to help keep the rope set ready and secure, it really helps!
-Scott