Fried transducer cable

So after rinsing down everything after my salt water outing I decided to let the connection end of my eagle cuda fishfinder soak in water in the hull all night (sarcasm ).  Called lowarnce and the said i needed to replace the whole transducer unit --($ 60).  Any way to just replace the connection piece? 

I have a spare if you need one. $40 plus shipping. let me know

I have 2 fried transducer cables and have tried almost everything to get them working again, but to no avail. 
I found some picture online of a guy who soldered the wires directly to the pins in the fishfinder, but I am not that desperate yet.   

I have a spare if you need one. $40 plus shipping. let me know

Thanks,  i just plugged it in again and got a connection for about 3 seconds.  Ill let it dry out a while longer.  If it's still not working I'll pm you tomorrow for details

Blow it dry with a hair drier, then fill the holes with dielectric grease.  Then make sure too keep the male and female parts coated in that stuff.


Sent from my GD300

polepole said something to about having to cut a few inches off his cable every year and a half or so to get rid of creeping corrosion and restore performance.  Hopefully he'll chime in with where to get new connectors.

Blow it dry with a hair drier, then fill the holes with dielectric grease.  Then make sure too keep the male and female parts coated in that stuff.

After suffering wtih flakey bottom readings for over a year, I finally ohm'd out my cable and found that the power cable had a higher than expected resistance.  Cutting the cable back to clean metal fixed it! 

WD40 and a wire brush will clean up the contacts.  Like Lee said, keep your connections coated in dielectric grease.  The problems will still occur but you'll have longer periods between issues.

-Spot-

It should be pretty easy to clean up the connections .   Easy on the unit itself which has the male pins exposed, but the female pin sleeves of the cable requires something that can get in to scrape off the corrosion.    I have used some very small drill bits which are just the right size to insert and ream / clean out the corrosion.    I have often thought that tip cleaners as used for a cutting torch might also be used.
Once the corrosion is taken care of,  then the dielectic grease can keep it from returning.

laughingsteelhead,  if you need,  I can send you one of the small drill bits I have used on CUDA connectors.

Thanks all for the help.  The connections are blown dry (but not permed) and greased and seem to be working. Craig, thanks for the offer on the drill bits, i think i just need to go out and buy some (sizes?).  I'm heading out to Picnic Point for 8-2 opener early tomorrow.  I know it's about a week early but gotta try.  Maybe I'll see some of you out there...
Wayne

What I have used mic's at 0.034" or 0.8mm ,   Even a common sewing pin roughed up would work to scrape the corrosion out.    The important thing is to not use something too large that you must force it in.  This could expand  / widen the sleeves to the point that the FF's male pins will no longer fit snug enough for good metal to metal contact.