Have a plan for rolling your kayak upright if you flip

(I originally posted this description in a reply to Slime's posting about his boom-less downrigger system in the "drilling and cutting" sub-forum, but thought it might be helpful to post it as a new topic in the safety forum).

If you flip a sit-on-top fishing kayak, various fishing lines, downrigger lines, and leashed gear will end up hanging down in the water, and may be draped across the bottom of the kayak.  If you had rods and/or a large landing net in rod holders and they stay in place, they'll be sticking down in the water, and depending on which direction they are sticking down, they may interfere with swimming around next to the kayak.  If any lines are draped across the bottom of the kayak, and you roll the kayak the wrong direction, those lines will end up being wrapped completely around the kayak, which will not be a good thing. 

I try to have a plan figured out in advance about how I would turn my kayak upright and re-enter it if I get flipped over.  I figure it's better to figure out this plan while I'm warm, dry, and not any more confused than usual, rather than while bobbing around in cold water next to my up-side-down kayak.  This plan is intended to minimize the chances that I will run into or get tangled in gear and lines which are in the water while I'm swimming, and to avoid wrapping lines and leashes all the way around the kayak when I turn it upright.   

In general terms, here's my plan if my kayak flips in deep water away from shore.  This description assumes that if my kayak flips to the right, I'll end up swimming on the right side (viewed from the stern) of the upside-down kayak:

1. Because I have rod holders mounted near my feet which hold the rods out at right angles to my kayak, If I need to swim around to the other side of the kayak, to avoid running into the rods I would swim around the stern of the kayak.

2.  I check to see if any lines are draped across the bottom of the kayak.  If there are, I move them away from the Mirage Drive (if there is one) to avoid entanglement, and swim around the stern of the kayak to the other side before proceeding to Step 3, in order to avoid wrapping the lines completely around the kayak.

3.  To roll the kayak upright, I reach over the bottom of the kayak and grab the Mirage Drive (if there is one), a scupper hole, or the far side of the kayak, pull it towards me while pushing down on the near side, and roll the kayak upright.

4. I move around to the side of the kayak with fewest obstructions.  In my case, because I usually have a downrigger and a fish finder mounted on the right side of my kayak, it's the left side of the kayak.

5.  I lay fairly horizontal in the water at right angles to the gunwale, grab the gunwale, and in one quick motion I heave myself up onto the kayak and as far across it as I can.  I end up lying on my stomach across the kayak, preferably with my head hanging over the far side of the kayak. I have a lot of practice doing this, because I spearfish out of my kayak.  If you've never tried getting into your kayak from the water, try practicing it some warm day.  Some kayakers like to reach across and grab the far gunwale before pulling themselves up into the kayak, but I don't find that necessary.

6. I roll over onto my side, sit up, and slide into my seat.

7.  I deal with whatever flipped me over so I don't get flipped again.

7.  I look for any loose gear and recover it before it floats away.

8.  I start untangling lines and leashes.

Before I head out from shore, I look at the fishing gear which is mounted on my kayak and make any mental revisions to this plan which may be necessary.  My hope is that if I get dumped, the updated plan will pop into my head, and I'll follow it quickly and efficiently.

I'll be honest, my 1st reaction to reading the title was "Hh great, yet another learn how to right your kayak before you need to thread."  But, after reading this, I realized that I've been coasting for a while on my game plan for how my kayak was rigged 3 years ago. 

Since I last spent any time considering my plan for righting my boat I've added bungee "keepers" for my back-up rods and a hinged scotty flag mast for my gopro.  This means that if I need to right my kayak, there'll be several very long items fighting the water as I roll it.  I'm sure that I'll no longer be able to exert enough upward pressure to overcome all those forces and flip my kayak from the front, back or near rail.

The new plan?  I can either try to mount the yak in its upside down position, grab the far handle and pull it over as I jump back in though it strikes me as difficult at best.  Or, I can tie something to a side handle, throw it over the hull, swim to the other side and lever it over like one would a sailboat.

Either way, I need to get out and try it to ensure one or both work.  The old addage is proven yet again; Safety is a process not an event.

-Spot-   

I appreciate the post because it reminds me that it's been awhile since I practiced self rescue and that was in swim trunks on a hot summer day in the ol' swimmin' hole with no accessories in the kayak. I need a refresher with a more realistic scenario like a few tethered items to work around.

Other than the "normal" methods on YouTube and such, as spot suggested, my paddle leash is 300lbs test cord.  I can throw the paddle over to the other side, then pull the kayak over from the other side.  I think it will also double as a place I can put my feet on to assist in pushing myself up onto the kayak after I right it.

My one major huli, I couldn't turn my kayak over because I jammed my paddle into the handle  and it acted like a huge daggerboard making it nearly impossible to flip even a light kayak like the mini-x over.  I would have thought something like that would be impossible to do...but it did!!

  Or, I can tie something to a side handle, throw it over the hull, swim to the other side and lever it over like one would a sailboat.


-Spot-

This works well. I can flip a non-rigged Outback this way with little effort, with this handy little device. Patience, know what to do and staying calm as can be in these kind of situations will be the big factor I would think.

Tie your stuff down but try not to do it so that you have a dozen leashes which impede you from getting away from or out of your boat (creating another safety problem). I rolled my kayak in the river about two months ago screwing around. Luckily Yaktrap got my fishing rod out a month later with a grappling hook.

If you flip over an unloaded sit-on-top kayak, it's easy to right the kayak and climb back in.  If you flip over a sit-on-top kayak loaded with fishing gear, the situation can be more complicated, because you can end up with a big snarl of gear, lines, and leashes hanging off the kayak.

If I flip a kayak loaded with fishing gear, I hope I remember two things: (1) To check for lines and leashes which are draped across the botton of the kayak before I try to right the kayak, and (2) if there are lines or leashes draped across the bottom of the kayak, to not just reach up and roll the kayak over again in the same direction, because that would wrap the lines and leashes all the way around the kayak.  Instead, I should swim around to the other side of the kayak and roll it upright in the opposite direction from the way it rolled over.

Excluding a giant net, rods and other gear shouldn't create so much drag that you can't right your boat.
Climb on top of your over turned boat grab the far handle and slide back into the water, pulling the kayak over with you.
Unless you weight 85 pounds this shouldn't be too difficult.

BTW ... One more reason not to have a million leashes. I think two or three should be the max. But if you do have everything including the kitchen sink leashed to your boat, let it all hang below the boat and drape over the far side when you roll your boat back over. That way you won't be fighting any drag and the leashes will all be on one side of the boat.

  If you flip over a sit-on-top kayak loaded with fishing gear, the situation can be more complicated, because you can end up with a big snarl of gear, lines, and leashes hanging off the kayak.

Don't forget that everything you have leashed increases the possibility of getting caught in a bite of rope when you flip.  That's why I always tell people to avoid using leashes.  Short bungees or straps that hold things in place are way safer. 

-Spot-

Something that can help in a self rescue situation is the Waterbug Rescue Ladder.  Search the name and you can see how it works.  Basically it will help you turn your kayak right side up, and give you a step up to help get back in the kayak.  They sell for around $30.00.

I have one and hope I never need it.  Have fun -

Alan

Last summer Josh (FlyGuy) and I did a little practice with one of those on the lake. Granted there are no leashes or other obstacles to deal with and on a hot summer day in perfect conditions... Even then this was after about 12 takes and just a few beers...

Last summer Josh (FlyGuy) and I did a little practice with one of those on the lake. Granted there are no leashes or other obstacles to deal with and on a hot summer day in perfect conditions... Even then this was after about 12 takes and just a few beers...

  That was a pretty smooth re-entry after 12 beers and a few takes....good job making it look easy.

If you're using leashes have a look at Nite Ize Gear Ties. Bungee is also a great option for some scenarios.