Rudder cable/install issue

I've got a Tarpon 140 that's "rudder ready," which just means it has tubing in place which runs from the stern, near the rudder mount, all the way to just behind the footbraces.

I recently scavenged a rudder and hardware from an old kayak I just sold, and am in the process of installing that on my tarpon.

I'm having an issue running 1/16th stainless wire (the size WS calls for) which will connect the rudder control/footbraces to the rudder) through the tubing. I can get 5, 6 feet at most, and then that's it. Tried WD40, tried from both directions ---- nada. Any suggestions or words of wisdom? Thanks!

My teacher told me not to push on a rope....   Try running a smaller gauge wire thru your tubing then pulling the rudder cable.  Your existing tubing could have some debris or a kink that is impossible to push through, but you can probably pull cable past it.   Good Luck.

i appreciate the response.

i snaked some heavy mono through seamlessly, so it's not blocked.

the 1/16th wire is such a tight fit in the tubing that it wouldn't fit an additional tiny crimp or small mono knot (uniknot, so low profile). the old wire isn't kinked, but does have a bit of memory, and isn't as smooth as new stuff. that could be the solution. just trying to save myself another $20 and trip to the hardware store...

i'm mechanically deficient, obviously...

how about some half-hitches of braid wrapped around the leading tag end of the cable -- make about 20 or so...these half hitches won't increase the diameter of the cable by very much (2x the diameter of the braid), and might act like enough of a chinese handcuff to pull on the cable end.   Can you get a needle through the cable so you could put a leader of braid on the cable then pull it through.  Perhaps the end of the cable has a cut that is flared - file that down and wrap some electrical tape around the point?    If Mono goes through, the cable should go through...keep trying!

bought some new stainless, easy as pie. $6 at stoneaway.

Aaaaand new problems:
Some stripped screws are currently holding in the footbraces. I've never touched em - must've been the previous owner (or a sloppy factory job? but i doubt that) and I just never noticed till now. ARGHHHH

Hang in there man, hardware can be a pain

i won't hire someone
i won't hire someone
i won't hire someone

i think if i say it enough....

ahhhh, who am i kidding. as the vast amounts of cutting board attached to my kayak in various and sundry places and ways will attest to, there's really no chance of that happening.

Easy out drill bits I have a wide selection but I'm in Garibaldi. Most auto parts stores will have them in the right size and some don't require you to pre drill a hole.

was able to pinch down on the screw w/ some teeny needlenoses and get juuust enough leverage to loosen the nut, then remove.
i need some go-go gadget arms to do this type of work inside the hull.

An oompaloompa on loan from Mr. Wanka might help also, you think you got it bad my big tuna has only two hatches the rear large and a 6 inch front that faces the bow. Impossible to even reach the middle of the hull on my boat.

eesh. no center hatch on that beast? might be worth it to install one. i use my center hatch 99% of the time.
although, that'd be a lot of cutting...

eesh. no center hatch on that beast? might be worth it to install one. i use my center hatch 99% of the time.
although, that'd be a lot of cutting...

It has a live fish well in the center, makes it nice for up-sizing fish on the water as they stay alive and well in the well. The black lid under my legs has a two way hinged lid with shock cord closures  for opening when in solo or tandem, and the ling was in tilly bay too short.