Breakaway anchor system based on a tie wire reel

How are you "locking" the spool once you've reached your desired depth?

This system works great & one word of caution I have to offer is to make sure you "lock" your anchor line to the spool in a way that the spool cannot spin in the current & thus double over onto your release line that's attached to your kayak. This will tie up your release line & prevent you from detaching from your anchor in case of an emergency, or  better yet "fish on." If there's ever any rotational movement twisting up your lines in the current you better pull up & fix it ASAP to minimize liability.[/quote]
Mursestrong, could you explain that problem in a little more detail, perhaps with a picture of your release line arrangement?  If there is a single line which runs from your anchor line reel and buoy to a cleat on your kayak, it wouldn't matter if the cable reel spins in the current.

I've been working on video to better explain this whole setup. Anything that spins in the current besides your bait is a bad thing. On one side of the big plastic reel Craig posted I attached small pieces of pool noodle foam. This keeps one side of the reel always on top and keeps the reel from being spun by the current. When things like this spin in the current the line twists into kinks and eventually the kinks get pulled into each other with every twist. This causes your release line to become wrapped up with your buoy and reel to where it can't let your kayak free of the buoy. Bad news, game over.

Sorry to bring this thread back a ways, but I found Wobbler's compact anchor setup to be very interesting.  The first thing I thought of was what rawk mentioned: pulling a heavy anchor attached to that small diameter line would likely be a bit uncomfortable.

This tuna line is proving to be a challenge, I was aiming to have this done this weekend. One of the suggestions I got was weed whacker line, has anyone tried this?? I may just have to order a spool on line...

Tuna line? Weed Wacker line? What are you using this stuff for on the setup?

The reason I ask is to make sure you're not using something like tuna chord as your anchor line.  I mean, it would work, but pulling an anchor up with thin line is really hard on the hands.  1/4 inch line is as thin as I'll ever go with anchor line.

I did see that Wobbler said something about pulling the anchor:

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As for reeling up your anchor. It can be done. I use a 6 pound jello mold anchor and find it tedious to reel it in. I usually pull up the anchor and then reel in the excess line.
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I have not attempted this, but it still seems like it would be difficult, especially if have a mushroom style anchor or one that weighs a bit more.  So I was thinking, what if you used a couple arrow pullers (like https://www.abbeyarchery.com.au/image-ETPAPW/Easton+Arrow+Puller+Wedge.html ) on the small diameter line while pulling.  I'm picturing using these puller to hoist the anchor all the way up, put the anchor in the kayak, then reel in the anchor line.  Anyone try something like this?  Thoughts?

Once you've established the perfect method to attach your anchor, spool, buoy & kayak line, don't change it without a lot of practice period; especially in a compromise as a quick decision...like when your'e setting anchor in a fast current. Even then, the number one rule for me is to check my 6 & surroundings OFTEN, which means checking my connection to the buoy, it's connection to the spool, & the kayak line sliding connection to the spool.
So what's the difference between these photos? The last method I may adopt after some experimenting under close supervision.

One quick thing Murse. In all of these pictures you have the line from the anchor clipped straight to the carabiner. In the current configuration, the line tension against the rim of the spool is the only thing keeping the line from unraveling. I would highly suggest tucking a loop of that line through a hole in the side of the spool and then to your carabiner. This will lock that line in position and keep it from unraveling and fouling the system.

Like Bsteves has here:

My version I use the monster carabinieri that are for multiple dog leashes or at the grocery store for haulin way to many cheap plastic sacks at once to clip off the yak.

Once you've established the perfect method to attach your anchor, spool, buoy & kayak line, don't change it without a lot of practice period; especially in a compromise as a quick decision...like when your'e setting anchor in a fast current. Even then, the number one rule for me is to check my 6 & surroundings OFTEN, which means checking my connection to the buoy, it's connection to the spool, & the kayak line sliding connection to the spool.
So what's the difference between these photos? The last method I may adopt after some experimenting under close supervision.

Mursestrong, how and where do you attach your anchor system to your kayak?  Do you clip it to your kayak with the carabiner which is in a loop of the grey rope which runs through your buoy?  I like the system which I learned from Wobbler, where about 8 feet of line runs from my anchor system, through the ring or carabiner on my anchor trolley, and into a zig-zag or jam cleat next to my seat.  I use the anchor trolley to move the rope to the bow or stern of my kayak.  When I want to cut loose from the anchor system, I just reach down with one hand and flip the rope out of the cleat, and it slides out of the anchor trolley.

I mount my buoy so its pointed end points towards the anchor, so it'll be more streamlined and have less drag from the current.

Does anyone use a Bruce anchor?

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Does anyone use a Bruce anchor?

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Yes, as infrequently as I anchor that's what I carry.   Mostly on the Big Tuna when tandem on lakes because of the high wind profile.  it also saw duty during the Salmon Slayride last fall to hold position so I could fish in 25+mph winds...

I have  yet to anchor but looking in to the option.

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Here is an alternative for the anchor. I have one on my kayak but I have not used it yet. It is light and less noisy and damaging in the boat.

Check it out at.http://cooperanchors.com/video/

Does anyone use a Bruce anchor?

I don't anchor often but there are two spots in the Gorge where I do.  Both are shallow sandy situations with good current and the Bruce style works great.  I don't remember ever having to reset.  I think 4 feet of chain helps.

Here is an alternative for the anchor. I have one on my kayak but I have not used it yet. It is light and less noisy and damaging in the boat.

Check it out at.http://cooperanchors.com/video/

You'll have to let us know how that one works for you.  It's a pretty interesting design.  $33 for the small one is a bit expensive but if it works the same as one 3 times its weight it'd be worth it I think.

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I finally got around to measuring how much Ashaway tuna leader is on my tie wire reel.  I measured it by stringing it out along a football field.  There is 175 feet on the reel.  I wouldn't want to put any more of the tuna leader on the reel, because if I reel in the line loosely or high on one side, the leader starts to hit the inside of the tie wire reel.

I have a 400 foot reel of Scotty 300 pound test braided downrigger line.  In theory I could have made an anchor system using this braided line and an old level-wind reel I have, but didn't because I found the braided line to be difficult to handle by hand, even when wearing gloves.

But here's a crazy idea: Buy a Scotty Laketroller downrigger, and load it with braided downrigger line.  Use the downrigger in place of a tie wire reel in an anchor system like the one described in this thread.  When you want to reel in your anchor, pull in the buoy and downrigger, stick the downrigger into a deck mount or a flush mount next to your seat, and start cranking.  This should work fine unless your anchor is too heavy to crank up comfortably using the small handle and cable reel on the Scotty Laketroller.

Where are you guys getting this tuna leader?  I can't find an online retailer that sells it, just brick and mortar stores that list it on their website without prices.  I'm tempted to order some 200# Chinese Spectra off Amazon, but the 1-6 week ship time is off-putting.  The colored spools of Chinese Spectra reportedly bleed like crazy, but I'm hoping the white is un-dyed. 

I tried the big orange cable reel with 1/4" line, and it's bigger and more awkward in the boat than I want to deal with.  My next experiment (concept drawing below) is going to be with pulling my anchor up on an anchor ring, and if that's successful I'll spend the money on a tie-wire reel and some fashion of ~1 mm anchor line. 

I have been using a cheap boat fender to float my anchor and drift sock.  One end of the fender has about 1' of 1/4" poly rope and a stainless clip spliced to it.  The other end of the fender has about 10' of 1/4" poly rope spliced to it.  The long end goes through the ring of my anchor trolley into a Ronstan cam cleat next to my seat.  Releasing the boat just requires a tug on the 8" pigtail of rope sticking out of the cleat.  Easy. 

The picture down there is just a concept.  I haven't tried it.  I don't know if it works from a kayak the same as it does from a power boat.