Recommended gear for a newbie on the BC Coast

Okay,  WW QCI has been good in answering a bunch of questions I asked him through PM's.  Cheers!  The problem is I have been talking to a couple of guys at the local shops and some neighbours and now I more confused than ever as to what I need for fishing in the chuck.  From what I gather, my current river setup will get me by in the upcoming tournament.

Rod - Shimano CV106MHB Rod - 10'6", Line Wt. 12-20lbs, Lure Wt 3/4 - 1/12oz.
Reel - Quantum IR4CW level wind widespool baitcast rateed for 180yds of 14Lb line.
Line - Can't even remember what I have on it.  Will be changing that out very soon.

However, the last thing I want to do is get up to the derby and find out I am going to have to wear the loser hat because I brought sissy gear, or even worse, break something right off the bat and then sit around watching the fun.  I know that everybody has their own secrets and I respect that, but I am trying to build my non-existent gear box up for the tourney and for future expeditions.  I want to make sure that I have the proper rod/reel combo, net.......  This is all new to me and I figured if I can get info from a few then I would be able to create the ultimate packages.  Here are my questions.

1.  What are most people using for a rod when fishing for salmon, halibut, lingcod, rockfish..? (length, line wt., lure wt. ratings?) Should I have more than one rod?
2.  What are most people using for a reel? Does it matter?
3.  What type of line should I have? (braided or non, lb rating...)
4.  How much line should I have on the spool in case I tag something nice?  (That is the plan)
5.  Do you run a leader off of the main line when jigging?  If so how long should it be and what lb....
6.  Do I need any weights?
7.  I read on the Moutcha gear thread that it is recommended to switch out treble hooks.  No prob, what is the best size and name brand to use?  Would this always be the better way to go on jigs?
8.  I have read that a lot of fish can be lost at the netting stage.  What size net should I buy and how long of a handle?
 
Okay..... I will stop before I become too much of a pain in the ass.  (I know, too late!)  Any info is appreciated.

Oh big can of worms here ... I'll keep it simple and focused on Moutcha for now, lest I write a novel.

I think that rod you are talking about is a Convergence casting rod, correct?  Up at Moutcha I use a Convergence Mooching rod in the same line rating (12-20) and find it a pretty good match for that fishery.

I also use 20# mono.  You probably will only be able to fit a little over 100 yards on that Quantum reel, but that's probably ok at Moutcha.  I don't remember a fish getting 100 yards out on me.  If it starts to, it's easy enough to reel down and pull yourself to the fish.  I'm not sure I'd like to fish with braid on these fish.  They are hot fish on the hook with lots of jumps and surges.  I kind of like the shock absorption of mono in this case.

No leader.  Tie to a snap swivel and clip to the lure.

I will be switching to 5/0 siwashes on the jigs I'm bringing.  May want a few from 4/0 to 6/0 to match whatever jigs you may buy.

Largest net you can get at a medium length (perhaps 4-6') that you can comfortably handle with 1 hand.

-Allen

no hard/fast rules but individual preference gives wide variety!

1.  Rod should be long enough to get the line around the bow if fish changes side, as they commonly do.  8 to 8 1/2 feet is common and rods in the 9 or 10 foot size are a little unwieldy.  Rod should be rated for 15-25# line, and medium to med-heavy action. POpular but pricey are Lamiglas, top $ are Sage and Loomis.  Nice rods at affordable price are Quantum and Shakespeare Ugly Stick, Shimano use Fuji guides ( the best) and are still affordable, around $90 or so, the Ugly Sticks are around 50-75.  Important to have a good tough reel seat, Fuji agin the standard.

2. Many brands of reels out there, Shimano popular in my neck of the woods, decent reels at good prices, especially the black graphite ones with 1 or 2 ball bearings.  YOu get what you pay for, I especially like Shimano Tekota.  Their Calcuttas are popular but prone to corrosion and don't last as well.  I have several of the TD100 and TD200, they last forever but the drag is not as smooth as the Tekota's.  QUantum makes a nice level wind, some guys love the Garcia Ambassadors, they have a smooth drag but are mostly freshwater reels so imporatnt to rinse after salt use.  Penn reels also good, and reasonably priced. My Daiwa Millionaire was highly promoted but the drag gave out after only a year, bearings corroded. 
   Don't know about Quantum, they look nice on paper.  I bought an AVET (non-level wind) lever drag reel last year, it has amazing powerful drag and low-friction freespool but sorta pricey and not backlash-free.  I use it for mooching, it's probably overkill for salmon in the 10-20# class.
   Penn 320GTi popular, decent drag, around $75.  Okuma titus also tough and reasonable. 
A guidemark for salmon is something with at least 2 ball bearings, including ball-bearing antireverse, wide spool to prevent line digging in, and capable of hold 200-300 yards of 20# mono.

3.  Mono is preferable to the no-stretch braided line for trolling, there's a lot of shock-absorbing quality to it, Trilene Big Game an especially good line for big fish.  Ande and Maxima excellent, Ande least expensive quality line.   Standard for kings is 20#, north of the US-Canada border they seem to use 25# more often. 15# the minimum.

4. see above
5. No leader, use Sampo 60# or 100# snap swivel.  Don't go cheap on the swivel!!  I like the black ones.

6. What Zee said----banana lead weight in 2oz to 5 oz. Unpainted works, deluxe are the red and yello plastic coated.

7. For hooks, I like either Mustad 62553 Stainless in 3/0 to 6/0, or Gamakatsu black 3/0 to 5/0.  Downside of the Mustad is the stainless will not rust out if the fish breaks off, upside is they last all season without rusting, I use the Gamakatsu for mooching leaders, and the Mustad for hoochie and B2 squid.  Gamas are extremely sharp out of the package, Mustad need to be sharpened.  I prefer a knife-edge point to a needle point on the Mustad.

8. What Zee said..  I struggle with my Scotty net with 4foot handle. Longer would be useful if you could stand up to net the fish!!

Good luck! Post pix if you can. Wish I could go this year, family visit has me tied to the home fires Labor Day. Dang!!  But next year!!!

I think you meant PolePole intread of me huh KT?

LOTS of great info there guys. Where were you when I first started salmon fishing!!?? ..
Really great stuff. Love the Tekotas. Can't wait to get one. I have been using PowerPro for trolling since it's slimmer so less drag in the water and therefore more depth control. I add 6-10 feet of mono leader for shock absorption and then another 4 feet behind the flasher if I have a hoochie. A friend recently is trying to get me to go 100% Maxima UltraGreen but still trying it out.

Z

OOops--yeah, Allen, sorry.

   What is the Ultragreen???  And what knot do you use to connect your mono topshot to the Powerpro?

   What is the Ultragreen???  And what knot do you use to connect your mono topshot to the Powerpro?

Ultragreen is one of Maxima's line types.

PP to mono ... I use a uni to uni.  Double over the PP before tying it as the thin braid will cut this knot sometimes.  I've experimented with a lot of knots in connecting PP to mono and this is the combo I'm most confortable with.

-Allen

WHen I was at Outdoor emporium last week, the Berkely rep was there, he suggested connecting them with Uniknot on the mono, and Bimini on the braid!!!  I should live so long I could tie a Bimini with 50# ultrabraid....even the Allbright is tough to tie.
   I used to use the uniknot exclusively with 15-20# mono, as it is fast and easier than the improved clinch. At the Sportsmans show a few years back the rep had one of those knot strength testers---he was using 10# line, as 20# was too strong for  the gears in the puller, but my Uniknots pulled out before the line broke---every time.
Maybe 5 wraps was not enough---I had lost one big tyee when my knot failed that year, so I gave up on the Uniknot.  YMMV!

Duuuhh--of course! I have used Ultragreen with great sucess in 15# for mooching leaders.  The chameleon is good, too---  my fishing buddy Rob landed a 30#10oz "native" on it this year.

WHen I was at Outdoor emporium last week, the Berkely rep was there, he suggested connecting them with Uniknot on the mono, and Bimini on the braid!!!  I should live so long I could tie a Bimini with 50# ultrabraid....even the Allbright is tough to tie.

Uni to the loop in the Bimini?  That just seems like the braid will cut the mono to me.  Now if you used a uni to uni to the bimini double ... well, that's similar to what I am saying about just doubling over the braid.

   I used to use the uniknot exclusively with 15-20# mono, as it is fast and easier than the improved clinch. At the Sportsmans show a few years back the rep had one of those knot strength testers---he was using 10# line, as 20# was too strong for  the gears in the puller, but my Uniknots pulled out before the line broke---every time.
Maybe 5 wraps was not enough---I had lost one big tyee when my knot failed that year, so I gave up on the Uniknot.  YMMV!

Wow!  First I've heard about uni having this sort of problem.  Do you remember what kind of line it was?  Now you got me curious ...

-Allen

...is there an advantage in boat size where one is shorter and wider and the other longer and narrower when fighting fish?

Is there an advantage to using multi piece rods over single or two piece for rod storage or does it really matter?

Being in the sportfishing industry for many years in varying capacities, has afforded me the opportunity to try many different types and styles of rods, reels and gear over the years...the smallest platform that I have worked off of so far in my adult life has been the Zego. other than being able to stand up and storage etc... I think that it maybe similar fish from, but much more fun and exciting to do it on a kayak.

I can hardly wait to find the best boat to suit me...

Cheers,
RVP.

...is there an advantage in boat size where one is shorter and wider and the other longer and narrower when fighting fish?

I never think about the kayak type when fighting a fish.  It's more about how you feel getting the fishing spot.

Is there an advantage to using multi piece rods over single or two piece for rod storage or does it really matter?

Admittedly single piece rods are harder to store in a kayak.  But really, when does one store their rods other than perhaps in a surf entry.  I just go by personal preference ...

-Allen

Thanks for the reply...

Sooo...is there an advantage in boat size where one is shorter and wider and the other longer and narrower. what would the benefits or drawbacks be for one over the other for travel to and fro the fishing grounds?

I was curious about the rods because I help develop them...

Cheers,
RVP.

Thanks for the reply...

Sooo...is there an advantage in boat size where one is shorter and wider and the other longer and narrower. what would the benefits or drawbacks be for one over the other for travel to and fro the fishing grounds?

Oh sorry ... I meant to point you to this recent (and active discussion) ... http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,1645.0.html

I was curious about the rods because I help develop them...

Cheers,
RVP.

Oh ... that topic deserves some attention, perhaps in its own thread.  Is the question "what makes good kayak fishing rod?"  There are a couple of outfits that do kayak fishing specific rods, Okuma and Lamiglas included.

-Allen

You might be pleasantly surprised on how much storage capacity these barges actually have RVP, compared to your Zego at least.  I can carry just about everything that I would bring with me in my 8ft Livingston pre-yak (I now use it upside-down as my kayak storage rack in my yard.)

Once you go 'yak, you'll never go back 

Allen, the line tester was a Berkeley rep, so I assume it was one of the Trilene lines.  I loved the Uniknot, it was fast and you can tie it in the dark.But it pulled out every time.  WOuld be interesting to test it with my 20# big game or my 15# Pline co-polymer I'm using presently for mooching leaders.
  Lately I've been tying a 4 foot section of 50# Big game to the snap swivel (Metzler sliding sinker above), then a little 60# black Sampo double ring swivel (no snap) and a 4 foot section of 15# with 2 snelled 4/0 Gamakatsu hooks. No snarls or line twist with this rig, and have not had any knots come undone----I tie  the snap swivel to the mainline with a Palomar, and improved clinch for the rest of the knots.
   I too am due for a new rod---have not been able to find either the Okuma or lamiglas kayak rods in Seattle, do you know a local source, Allen??