How do I Tune a Hobie Rudder?

After swapping in the bigger Hobie sailing rudder on my Revo 13, it has a pronounced starboard bias.  It probably favored right turns with the stock rudder, and it's just more obvious with the larger surface.

Way more obvious, I'd say: a hard starboard turn will make the stern slide, and a hard left feels a bit sluggish.

Is there a quicker/better way to tune the rudder than adjust-test, adjust-test..? 

Is the rudder warped?
Aside from placing your Revo on a pair of saw horses to adjust the rudder lines......suggest using "short-quick-rapid-pedal strokes" when turning.....you would be surprised how quickly the hull will respond to the change in rudder position. This was the case with my Outback when I changed to the sailing rudder.

There are really good instructions for this. I would first start with inspecting your cables.

Is the rudder warped?
Aside from placing your Revo on a pair of saw horses to adjust the rudder lines......suggest using "short-quick-rapid-pedal strokes" when turning.....you would be surprised how quickly the hull will respond to the change in rudder position. This was the case with my Outback when I changed to the sailing rudder.

Thanks, Doc, but this doesn't just happen when pedaling, it also happens when gliding.  And only in a right-hand turn.

There are really good instructions for this. I would first start with inspecting your cables.

I'm thinking the answer is in the Twist-n-Stow Repair Manual and that adjust-then-test is the only way to get it centered within its range of movement.  Thanks!

Tinker, one last thought......where are your Mirage fins positioned when you are gliding?   Are they centered or flat against the hull or ?
The fins do play into the turning  of the kayak......if the fins are centered, then they act more as a "center board" like a sail boat and help turning left or right more efficiently.

Another last thought, I hope......Is the rudder "down line" fully/tightly locked into the jam lock so it doesn't allow the rudder to "creep upwards"?

Thank you, Doc.  The rudder was down and secured.  I double-checked that when I made my first skid.

The rudder is straight and true, but I'd have never thought to take a closer look at it if you hadn't asked about a warped rudder.  I won't forget to make sure new parts aren't defective first, before charging in armed with tools.

I didn't pay enough attention to where the fins were each time.  When gliding, they are up, just from habit of how I position my feet when not pedaling.  At a slow pace, just tickling the pedals an inch or two at most, it still turns harder and faster to the right than to the left.

The Repair Manual says that when the rudder is pointing straight along the keel - amidship - the rudder control handle should point approximately 20-degrees to starboard.  My handle is pointing maybe half that, around 10-degrees - I'll have to dig out my protractor to be more precise, but it is pointing a lot less than 20-degrees to starboard.

I'm guessing that means the rudder can travel further to the right than it would if properly adjusted, and can't travel to the left as far as it should.  I'll fiddle around with the cords and test that theory tomorrow.

I appreciate the suggestions.

Hey Tinker!

Low and behold! While rigging my new Revo last night I came across this while installing the brand-new out-of-the-package sailing rudder!

I don't know if this helps at all or not but my large sized rudder on my Oasis has about as much bend in it as the pictures above (always has, since brand new), and I don't notice any directional bias.

The cords were wrong-ish.  After reading the maintenance manual, it says the steering handle should point about 20-degrees to the right when the rudder is centered.  Mine was pointing about 9- or 10-degrees.  It seems to have allowed the rudder to turn/move farther to the right than ideal, and less far to the left.

It's better now.

I think that the bend in the rudder is part of the design and that below the waterline it's a straight edge. Now I'm curious, so I'll look at mine tomorrow.

...
I didn't pay enough attention to where the fins were each time.  When gliding, they are up, just from habit of how I position my feet when not pedaling. 

If you get in the habit of keeping the fins straight down while gliding they act like a centerboard and will resist wind drift. Sitting in the Hobie you act like a sail, so keeping the fins straight down, you can actually use the wind to your advantage.

If you get in the habit of keeping the fins straight down while gliding they act like a centerboard and will resist wind drift. Sitting in the Hobie you act like a sail, so keeping the fins straight down, you can actually use the wind to your advantage.

+1 And similarly if you are cross-wind and want to "slide" you can split your pedals and get a decent side drift going.

+1 And similarly if you are cross-wind and want to "slide" you can split your pedals and get a decent side drift going.

Hadn't thought of that!  Thank you.

   Tinker,
 You will eventually get all your angles and line lengths figured out and adjusted for your boat.
  One thing that hasn't come up yet is weight distribution. The same as hauling any load (to put it in an operator's perspective). If you have too much weight on one side or another --- that will affect performance , which will spoil your day, if not ruin it. Take a look at small details --- do I have all my weights on one side, has my battery shifted to one side or the other, where is most of the weight in this boat including my own ass. Little details do make a difference. Pay attention to them.