Some new rigging projects using thrift store cutting boards.

If you shorten the boom of a Cannon Lake-troll, here's the point where the cable or braided line can rub on the throat of the downrigger's body.  The more cable or line you let out, the closer it comes to this point.

Thanks pmmpete. I was thinking the rub point was going to be near the pulley. Thanks for the point about compensating for diminishing spool diameter as you drop the weight. I guess with the counter working from the pulley and not the main spool like my Uni-troll you could actually add some backing under the cable/braid to increase the spool diameter since there is more than enough capacity on the spool for 150-200 ft of braid. That would also mean fewer turns for bringing up the weight too.

Filling the spool has been on my never-ending to-do list for a while now.  In addition to fewer turns to crank the weight up, you'd get a smoother action out of the brake because the cannonball has more leverage against the spool (which also means cranking the ball up will be harder, with fewer cranks).

Filling the spool has been on my never-ending to-do list for a while now.  In addition to fewer turns to crank the weight up, you'd get a smoother action out of the brake because the cannonball has more leverage against the spool (which also means cranking the ball up will be harder, with fewer cranks).

I wonder what the best backing would be. First thoughts were to split a roll of duct tape at just the right matching width of the spool and carefully put on as many layers as desired. An advantage would be unlike a braid, cord, or other "line" type of backing, your working cable or braid would not be able to wedge down in the tape like it might do between rows of the backing windings.

Opps, One logistics problem just popped in my mind. The cable is connected to the spool core as I recall the last time I changed out my cable for stouter (250# test) wire. Added insurance to prevent dropping $400 worth of camera and weight to Davey Jones' Locker. The tape backing would be a problem for attaching the DR line. And even with a cord or rope backing it would mean attaching your working cable to that material.  Almost need a single piece plastic sleeve that attaches at one time and provides access to the attachment point.

I think you are right about the larger diameter creating more work to lift the weight. But on kayak DRs I think most guys are running 4 to 8 pounds max. Six seems to be a frequent mention I read.

I attached my braid to the spool by running it through a small hole in the spool and tying it to a split ring. It would be easy to drill another hole farther up the side of the spool to start the braid above whatever backing/shim/spacer I end up using.


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