Some new rigging projects using thrift store cutting boards.

Here are some of my rigging projects using thrift sore cutting boards.

Looking good, IB!


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IB,
When you mounted the GearTracs rail in the tray for your downrigger mount did you put a cutting board back plate (or other material) under the hull for the gear track screws? Or go with the self tapping ones in the plastic?  Did you see YakAttack has a Gen II GearTrac that has a flat base and no countersunk holes? Looks like that might be the better track for the flat surface of the Outback tray.

I really like you DR mount method. Thanks for the YT Slide Show on the other post!  Resting the base plate (cutting board) on the Hobie tray edge most likely reduced the cantilever weight stress on the gear track screw areas by 50% since the outboard row of screws will never see any stress in the downward direction from the weight, line drag or snagging bottom. GREAT idea. 

I have a couple of vintage 1985 Canon Uni-Troll 6 downriggers (one piece cast aluminum body) on my power boats and just love the one hand crank and clutch lock system that only locks the reel enough to prevent the weight from dropping but remains right on the edge of slipping if/when you hang up or start dragging a rough bottom. If I need a bit of extra insurance I just hold the spool and move the crank an inch further.  I also use the swivel base like you. Another great feature for a kayak for keeping the weight pulling forces close to the boat hull to reduce the tipping effect from longer DR arms and the need to mount those types of downriggers in the center of the boat.

Did you shorten your DR arm? Advertised Lake Trolls are running a longer arm than yours.

Have you experienced any slippage in the pulley head counter?  I had seen a review or two mentioning the counter might slip and give an erroneous reading.

Oh and one last KUDO on your DR mount system location. SO EASY to pop off and secure on the boat before attempting a rough surf landing to prevent that equipment from getting slammed on the beach if you crash and burn in the surf.  Call me a paranoid newbie that hasn't experienced that event yet....btw all saltwater kayakers I've talked with say my day is coming....but its just logical to stow or secure any and all vertical gear if there is any doubt about rolling on the beach.  No yard sales for me.

IB,
When you mounted the GearTracs rail in the tray for your downrigger mount did you put a cutting board back plate (or other material) under the hull for the gear track screws? Or go with the self tapping ones in the plastic?  Did you see YakAttack has a Gen II GearTrac that has a flat base and no countersunk holes? Looks like that might be the better track for the flat surface of the Outback tray.

I really like you DR mount method. Thanks for the YT Slide Show on the other post!  Resting the base plate (cutting board) on the Hobie tray edge most likely reduced the cantilever weight stress on the gear track screw areas by 50% since the outboard row of screws will never see any stress in the downward direction from the weight, line drag or snagging bottom. GREAT idea. 

I have a couple of vintage 1985 Canon Uni-Troll 6 downriggers (one piece cast aluminum body) on my power boats and just love the one hand crank and clutch lock system that only locks the reel enough to prevent the weight from dropping but remains right on the edge of slipping if/when you hang up or start dragging a rough bottom. If I need a bit of extra insurance I just hold the spool and move the crank an inch further.  I also use the swivel base like you. Another great feature for a kayak for keeping the weight pulling forces close to the boat hull to reduce the tipping effect from longer DR arms and the need to mount those types of downriggers in the center of the boat.

Did you shorten your DR arm? Advertised Lake Trolls are running a longer arm than yours.

Have you experienced any slippage in the pulley head counter?  I had seen a review or two mentioning the counter might slip and give an erroneous reading.

Oh and one last KUDO on your DR mount system location. SO EASY to pop off and secure on the boat before attempting a rough surf landing to prevent that equipment from getting slammed on the beach if you crash and burn in the surf.  Call me a paranoid newbie that hasn't experienced that event yet....btw all saltwater kayakers I've talked with say my day is coming....but its just logical to stow or secure any and all vertical gear if there is any doubt about rolling on the beach.  No yard sales for me.

I backed up the geartrack with aluminum flat bar from Home Dep' drilled to match the track with SS bolts and lock nuts. Access through the center hatch. If I didn't have access I would have threaded out the holes in the flat bar and used Yak Attack rigging bullets. I didn't see the gen 2 tracks. I have a local Hobie dealer and used the Hobie track.
I did reduce the length of the arm once I had the base mounted with the swivel mount on click off center, Then I could see how long to make it. The spectra ends up about 1.5 inches from the side when trolling. ppmpete advised easing out the throat in the DR body where the spectra comes out of the spool. That was good advise, I trolled without doing that as I wanted to get out and fish with it. When retrieving the ball the spectra was rubbing on the body of the DR. After removing some of the plastic with a half round file, no more problem. Somebody recommended running the spectra round the pulley twice to help the counter to read properly. It seems to be working fine, although I use my sonar and the line counters on my reels for accuracy. I find with a 6# ball at 100ft and 2mph I can still see it on the DF. I agree about the gen 2 Yak Attack track but too late for me. As for the added height due to using the swivel base, it does not seem to de-stabilize the boat although I do use Side Kicks in the high position and most of the time they are about 2-3 inches above the water. So thanks for your comments.
Tight Lines!!!

Looking good.

You'll be better off changing-out the aluminum backing plates - when aluminum and stainless steel are in contact, they'll corrode quickly, even in freshwater.  More of that cutting board material would work better and last longer.

I over-think things, but I'd put some flat washers under the thumb-screws holding the downrigger mount to spread the stresses.

good points. Work in progress.

ppmpete advised easing out the throat in the DR body where the spectra comes out of the spool. That was good advise, I trolled without doing that as I wanted to get out and fish with it. When retrieving the ball the spectra was rubbing on the body of the DR. After removing some of the plastic with a half round file, no more problem.

Are you referring to the round "barrel" the arm fits into because when the counter pulley is too close the line rubs there?

I find with a 6# ball at 100ft and 2mph I can still see it on the DF.

That's good to know.


I agree about the gen 2 Yak Attack track but too late for me. As for the added height due to using the swivel base, it does not seem to de-stabilize the boat although I do use Side Kicks in the high position and most of the time they are about 2-3 inches above the water.

Thanks for that note. I have a set of Side Kicks to install yet and good to know it does not interfere with where you have the downrigger mounted.

I noticed you put the swivel position release pin on the outside. Was there a problem with clearance on the inboard side or difficulty in pulling it to change the DR position?

One last Q: where you have the DR mounted, can you pivot it 180° to the back and not have it hit your seat? Hard to tell from the side photo.

Thanks for your help!

ppmpete advised easing out the throat in the DR body where the spectra comes out of the spool. That was good advise, I trolled without doing that as I wanted to get out and fish with it. When retrieving the ball the spectra was rubbing on the body of the DR. After removing some of the plastic with a half round file, no more problem.

Are you referring to the round "barrel" the arm fits into because when the counter pulley is too close the line rubs there?

I find with a 6# ball at 100ft and 2mph I can still see it on the DF.

That's good to know.


I agree about the gen 2 Yak Attack track but too late for me. As for the added height due to using the swivel base, it does not seem to de-stabilize the boat although I do use Side Kicks in the high position and most of the time they are about 2-3 inches above the water.

Thanks for that note. I have a set of Side Kicks to install yet and good to know it does not interfere with where you have the downrigger mounted.

I noticed you put the swivel position release pin on the outside. Was there a problem with clearance on the inboard side or difficulty in pulling it to change the DR position?

One last Q: where you have the DR mounted, can you pivot it 180° to the back and not have it hit your seat? Hard to tell from the side photo.

Thanks for your help!

I will take a photo tomorrow showing the area to be enlarged to prevent the cable rubbing. When you shorten the arm you change the geometry of the DR causing the cable to rub where it exits the main body of the DR on its way to the pulley.
I installed with the swivel release on the outside as it would be too close to my right thigh on the inside. It is easy to reach on the outside and I only adjust it just before I launch. I usually don't need to adjust it till I'm finished fishing. Although it is easily reachable if you want to change its position on the fly.
If you were to mount it on the right in the position I have it but facing back the crank handle may be in an awkward position. Again, I will take photos tomorrow

ppmpete advised easing out the throat in the DR body where the spectra comes out of the spool. That was good advise, I trolled without doing that as I wanted to get out and fish with it. When retrieving the ball the spectra was rubbing on the body of the DR. After removing some of the plastic with a half round file, no more problem.

Are you referring to the round "barrel" the arm fits into because when the counter pulley is too close the line rubs there?

If you shorten the boom of a Cannon Lake-troll, here's the point where the cable or braided line can rub on the throat of the downrigger's body.  The more cable or line you let out, the closer it comes to this point.

ppmpete advised easing out the throat in the DR body where the spectra comes out of the spool. That was good advise, I trolled without doing that as I wanted to get out and fish with it. When retrieving the ball the spectra was rubbing on the body of the DR. After removing some of the plastic with a half round file, no more problem.

Are you referring to the round "barrel" the arm fits into because when the counter pulley is too close the line rubs there?

If you shorten the boom of a Cannon Lake-troll, here's the point where the cable or braided line can rub on the throat of the downrigger's body.  The more cable or line you let out, the closer it comes to this point.

Thank you pmmpete, I wasn't shure how to explain this without a photo.

Looking good.

You'll be better off changing-out the aluminum backing plates - when aluminum and stainless steel are in contact, they'll corrode quickly, even in freshwater.  More of that cutting board material would work better and last longer.

I over-think things, but I'd put some flat washers under the thumb-screws holding the downrigger mount to spread the stresses.

Thanks Tinker, I missed the washers.
Question: Before I change the backing material. Isn't the gear track as supplied, aluminum with SS screws?  So mine has the aluminum gear track backed with an aluminum plate, held together with SS screws nuts and washers. Unless the anodizing of the gear track prevents the kind of corrosion you are talking about.  Do I need to change the backing material?

Anodizing does minimize the opportunity for direct contact between the two metals, but without seeing it, you've described a bare piece of aluminum as the backing plate.  A backer plate is there to spread the stress across a larger area of the hull, and any material more rigid than the hull - like the cutting board material or a piece of rigid PVC sheet - is more than adequate.

You don't need to change it right now, but changing it would be a good idea in the long run.  It's not going to corrode immediately, and if you decide to replace the aluminum, do it when you can get around to it.

And just to think of all those aluminum boats out there with SS hardware are just going to fall apart someday...

And just to think of all those aluminum boats out there with SS hardware are just going to fall apart someday...

Haha, right!  As a group, we tend to over think things! 

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If you shorten the boom of a Cannon Lake-troll, here's the point where the cable or braided line can rub on the throat of the downrigger's body.  The more cable or line you let out, the closer it comes to this point.

Thanks pmmpete. I was thinking the rub point was going to be near the pulley. Thanks for the point about compensating for diminishing spool diameter as you drop the weight. I guess with the counter working from the pulley and not the main spool like my Uni-troll you could actually add some backing under the cable/braid to increase the spool diameter since there is more than enough capacity on the spool for 150-200 ft of braid. That would also mean fewer turns for bringing up the weight too.