Fish finder head unit location on a Trident?

I always seem to ask the silliest questions...

Just received my Trident 11 (2016 leftover).  I'm getting ready to mount my Lowrance Hook-5 fish finder - because I already had it - and was wondering if the Mod Pod lid is sturdy enough to hold it, a 1.5 inch ball, and a long, metal Ram arm.

And if that's a stupid place to put it, tell me.  I can take it.

That's not a silly question. I moved mine on my Trident a couple of times before I found out where I liked it.

To me, mounting it on the pod is putting it in prime real estate for in the way- think fish flopping around, nets tackle and other gear... I get in and out of the pod anyway and makes it clumbsy and the wiring untidy as well.

I placed a Ram Ball just forward of the Mod Pod and used the long ram arm you speak of. It still puts the FF in good arms reach to make it functional and a whole lot more tidy. Run the cables down the arm and over through a bulkhead fitting inside the Sonar Shield. The sonar shield area is a good place where I coil up and store the cables for transport.

I actually placed 2 -1-1/2" ram balls there- one for the FF, and the other for the rod holder. I have a 1" ball just ahead of the foot well for the transducer arm if you want to go that route vs through-hull.

None of this gets in the way of paddling, re-entry, access to the pod etc...

I always seem to ask the silliest questions...

Thats why we like ya so much!

Tape it in place sit down and start pretending your on the water fishing from the lawn, put a rubber toy on and see about catching a cat or dog. Best way to know for sure if your permanently attaching or just put rails on then you can adjust on the water or with different configuration like I did on the big tuna.  Just my $0.02

Tinker,
Old school Tridents mounted just ahead of the rod pod. Was mostly a straight bolt on or used a Scotty mount.

Since you've got a 2016, the rod pod lid should be set up so you can attach the head unit to it where you want along its length. Are there embedded well nuts on the top of the lid?  Not a lot of real estate on that platform.  Hope the Hook 5 isnt a large format. 

To me, mounting it on the pod is putting it in prime real estate for in the way - think fish flopping around, nets tackle and other gear... I get in and out of the pod anyway and makes it clumsy and the wiring untidy as well.

I placed a Ram Ball just forward of the Mod Pod and used the long ram arm you speak of. It still puts the FF in good arms reach to make it functional and a whole lot more tidy.

None of this gets in the way of paddling, re-entry, access to the pod etc...

Thank you!  Great answer.

Tape it in place sit down and start pretending you're on the water fishing from the lawn, put a rubber toy on and see about catching a cat or dog. Best way to know for sure if your permanently attaching or just put rails on then you can adjust on the water or with different configuration like I did on the big tuna.

Mr. Jojo, even when I'm on the water, I'm pretending to fish.  Look at my ATOY score - or just ask anyone who's been fishing with me...

I need to practice casting to find all the new things I'll be snagging with a fly line, and this time I'll be clever enough to tape it down while practicing to see whether it's better to be a bit to port or starboard of the centerline.  Thank you.

Tinker,
Old school Tridents mounted just ahead of the rod pod. Was mostly a straight bolt on or used a Scotty mount.

Are there embedded well nuts on the top of the lid?  Not a lot of real estate on that platform.  Hope the Hook 5 isn't a large format. 

Thanks!  No wells nuts on the Mod Pod type lid and I'm thinking there's a lot less useable real estate on the new lids than on the older style lids because of all the recesses molded into the newer lids.

I think the old school position in front of the pod is the right spot for it - who an I to second-guess Ocean Kayaks? - and browneyesvictim's comment about being able to reach it easily when it's on a long arm is the best selling point for that location.

Thank you all for the help!

Tinker- a couple of things to consider... First- Because of the molded  contour of the plastic in that area there is pretty good rigidity if you put a flush ram ball there, but you still want some sort of backing underneath.

In actuality, what I have there in mine, is a Scotties flush mount with a RAM wedge  ball conversion in it. I have different types/sizes/styles of rod holders with long arm extensions that will work there depending on what kind of fishing I'm doing. I am a huge fan of the ram ball stuff now.  In hindsight, I would have all RAM. I was afraid at first, there would be too much slippage at the balls (please hold your dirty mind, comments and snickers!) especially when trolling. And to a point there is... under severe strain... but it is a worthwhile trade-off. If I ever plan on trolling with my trident I can go back to the Scotties for its holding power. But alas... What you asked about was FF holder- not rod holder.

Ok browneyesvictim, you been here long enough to know you can't use the words "too much slippage at the balls" and "under severe strain" in the same post with this crowd you trying to cover someone's computer screen in coffe? 

But goodwill cutting boards make great backing plates Tinker

Ha, ha, ha, ha-ha you said slippage!

Thank you again.  I always use a backer plate except for pad-eyes in hard-to-reach places - then I use over-sized washers

Did you know that Scotty makes a backer plate for those through-hull mounts?  I think there's one or two in that big box of stuff I didn't get around to using, out in the garage...

For the transducer mount, I've used the magnetic thru the hull mount.  Was able to cut a hole in a piece of plastic from a breadboard just big enough for the interior magnet.  Sanded the interior surface, gooped the cutout and wrapped the interior magnet in cellophane to hold the bread board cut out in place without gluing the magnet in.  Used rivets to secure a velcro strap to hold the magnet in and just leave it there.

As for the transducer, didn't like the drag, waves etc. of the thick arm going into the water so removed it and used a piece of 1" strap steel about 18 " long to hold the transducer under water.  Very easy to pop off the magnet on the inside when I get to shore, never have air under the transducer and it's an option to consider.

Oh no!  Don't do that to me!  I've worked hard to earn a reputation around here as someone capable of complicating a glass of water, and a pair of magnets?  I could Rube Goldberg that for months, maybe years!

That looks like a magnet from one of the commercial magnetic mounts.  Good information about why and how you modified it.

Thanks, once again!