water proof pass thru's

ok, finally got tired of the wait for a FF and picked up a H'bird 565. yeah, i know i've said i was going after the 717, but i'd had trouble finding it and getting it shipped out here, even by online retailers.  so i broke down and picked up the 565 instead.

now the problem is, finding a waterproof pass thru that'll work. after talking to some other members, and searching locally in the boat shops with no luck around here[ 2 of the shops have gone belly up]  i was reminded that online marine would probably have what i need.

sure enough they have "cableclams". now, which size is best? the .68 or the 0.825? anyone else use these or seen them used on a yak?

http://www.onlinemarine.com/electrical_components.html

I don't really try for waterproof as much as water resistant (that's assuming its above the waterline  ) > I do strive for as few connections as possible so I'd be reluctant to add a connector that cuts the wire, especially the transducer.

That said, my cable is fed through the modified rod holder base that the ff is mounted on. I drilled it out to a 1/2" and the Lowrance/Eagle just fits through. I gooped on a grommet stamped from a foam floor tile on to the cable where it passes through the rodholder base, and that seals if sufficiently. My mount is generally above water and the inside of my hull is dry.   

I don't know if that would work for a Hummminbird though as I think the connector is bigger.

I looked for a dozen different ways to do this as well.  Then I ran across the following thread and found my solution (which only cost about $3.50 to create). http://kfs.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/220603834/m/6821063181


In the picture below, I picked up the solid rubber stopper at ACE, the PVC cap and CPVC junction box fitting at Home Depot.
I put the stopper in the freezer overnight, so that it will drill two small holes through the center without too much issue. This worked really well.  Then just sliced the sides to the holes so I could slip the wires through.  Add a tad bit of soap to the surface of the rubber stopper to make things slippery, and assembled through the hole I drilled.  I am confident that this will be tighter than the hatches ever will be.







If your cable end is too large to slip through the CPVC you may want to go with this option.

Heres what I did..  I like the KISS theory! The black plugs can be found at most hardware stores.  I got mine at Fishermen's Marine. I doubt this leaks at all, if any its a drop or two. It has never come out even with some serious wipe outs. Just take your time before you drill the hole so you get the size right.  I did a couple practice holes on some scrap before I put a hole in the yak

thanx guys, i 'preciate your input. keep 'em coming.

pelagic; no goop at all on that puppy?

nope, no goop.. couldn't hurt, but never felt it needed it.. The hole in the yak is small enough that when you force the plug in it is very tight to the hull and the plug material gets compressed around the wires.  I'm sure its not 100% water proof but I am fine with a drop or two.   It has worked for almost 4 years for me with no problem. Plug has never popped out and I have never had any water infiltration problems.  Just make sure to get the hole size right.  To small and I think it could get bumped off and to big and it could get pushed through.   

The one that pelagic paddler show's is essentially the diet version of what I showed.   The upside of the extra parts is that you can crank down on the white PVC and it squeezes the black plug tight.  Upside to the extra parts, is there is no way you can just knock it out without distroying the kayak in that area. Either option you take should net you a solid wire plug. 

Also note: I did like the pick and drilled two holes in my plug, but one slightly bigger one like pelagic paddler's may be easier to work with and sufficient. 

I put a bright light behind mine (while in the dark garage) and saw ZERO light.  I would think it's tighter than a frogs A$$. 

I guess I'm with FFTW on this one, if these connections are up on the deck of the kayak how water tight do they really need to be?  I mean I understand if they are below the waterline (say in the lower part of a foot well near a scupper hole) there would be a lot of potential water intake.  My fish finder wires are not plugged water tight like this and at best I get a few drops of water in from  going through heavy surf and having a few waves break over my bow. 

That said, it certainly does look better to have a nice plug and the type that INSAYN posted is pretty pimp.  In my case the wires come in from under my fish finder mount so you can't see the hole anyway.

Brian

The one that pelagic paddler show's is essentially the diet version of what I showed.   The upside of the extra parts is that you can crank down on the white PVC and it squeezes the black plug tight.  Upside to the extra parts, is there is no way you can just knock it out without distroying the kayak in that area. Either option you take should net you a solid wire plug. 

Also note: I did like the pick and drilled two holes in my plug, but one slightly bigger one like pelagic paddler's may be easier to work with and sufficient. 

I put a bright light behind mine (while in the dark garage) and saw ZERO light.  I would think it's tighter than a frogs A$$. 

yep thats what i'm aiming for.. bad enough i'm gonna hole the deck, i'd feel awful not doing what is needed to keep as much water out as possible.. call me pollyanna or what ever, i want to do this right.

If nothing else, you can raise your own DIY points in your mind by going all out with the wire install.   

yep thats what i'm aiming for.. bad enough i'm gonna hole the deck, i'd feel awful not doing what is needed to keep as much water out as possible.. call me pollyanna or what ever, i want to do this right.

How about reducing the number of holes to one?

If nothing else, you can raise your own DIY points in your mind by going all out with the wire install.   

thanx, i needed that humorous support.. good way to start the morning , with a healthy laugh...

How about reducing the number of holes to one?

PM sent..........

Love the idea, Fishesfromtupperware! 

I'm using a watertight box for my battery enclosure. To get the power into the box, I'm using a cable gland to keep things waterproof.  http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3227

This would just as easily work through the yak. The only limitation is you must have bare cables to thread through it.

Jay