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Topic: Breaking line  (Read 7925 times)

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OutbackRoy

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Location: Charleston, OREGON, USA
  • Date Registered: Oct 2008
  • Posts: 343
 
The dangers of getting hung up... With some of the heavy line i see used from kayaks, the danger of a huli when trying to break off is very real..I have had some scary moments when a swell or surge is ruining..
  My thoughts are  it is safer to get a good angle on the line before trying to break it rather than directly over it.  Down wind or current helps line to stay tight. Less chance of pulling kayak over..


hooknose

  • Herring
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  • Date Registered: Jul 2008
  • Posts: 43
what i've done is tighten the drag, put rod in rod holder angled directly in line with bow and paddle to pull it free or break the line.  The key, I think, is to keep in line with it rather than reefing on a snag from the side which would lead to a roll...


polepole

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Here's what I do when I snag up.  First thing I do is get jiggy with the rod.  Often times I'll shake the jig loose.  If that doesn't work, I'll put the rod in my lap under the off leg and over near leg and paddle upcurrent (upwind) of the snag.  That does the trick most of the time.  The reason I have it in my lap is I can react to a sudden swell that might otherwise throw me off balance if the rod is in the holder.  If I still can't get the snag free, I'll try a few different angles.  Still stuck?  I paddle over the snag, point the rod down in the water directly towards the snag, reel tight on the line, thumb the spool and let the swell pull it loose or break off.  If I get caught on a big swell, release thumb and the drag does it's thing.  No swell?  Thumb spool and pull straight up.  By now, I either have my jig back, or have broken off.  If you haven't achieved this yet, consider using lighter line.  20# spectra for me.  Mono has too much stretch making it harder to break off, especially in deeper water with lots of line out.   I've used 30# spectra in the past and it can be down right unbreakable.  Too dangerous for me.

-Allen


Fishboy

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Wouldn't it be simpler and safer just to use mono leader that is at least five pounds lighter in test weight than the braid?


polepole

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Wouldn't it be simpler and safer just to use mono leader that is at least five pounds lighter in test weight than the braid?

Heavier leader is nice for abrasion resistance on teeth and rocks.  Besides, the point is to not try to lose the jig.  I'm trying to get it back!!!  I usually use 20-25 pound leader anyway, and even with that, most of the time the leader is what breaks for me.

-Allen


Pisco Sicko

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  • Location: South Lake Tahoe, CA
  • Date Registered: Apr 2006
  • Posts: 1553
If we have to use lighter leader to break off, then what's the point of having heavier braid line?  ??? For deep water jigging, the heavier braid is a liability with it's additional drag.


Fishboy

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  • Location: Salem, Oregon
  • Date Registered: Mar 2009
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Good points, guys. Sounds like 20-pound Spectra and 25-pound mono leader would be a good rock/ling/cabezon setup.


OutbackRoy

  • Lingcod
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  • Location: Charleston, OREGON, USA
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  • Posts: 343
Good points,, leader knot is usually weakest link


polepole

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Good points,, leader knot is usually weakest link

Actually I don't usually find that to be the case.  Often times it is not the knot that breaks, rather it is the leader nearer the jig.  Most likely the jig is getting wedged at the leader and sawing off.

-Allen


coosbayyaker

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  • Location: Coos Bay Oregon
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It's easy to break it off with the hobie, i just hold it straight back  and peddle until it frees or breaks. That's after at least 5 minutes of jigging it every which way to try to retreive my gear, losing gear gets spendy. 20 pound test, especially sprectra or power pro should be enough to get most fish to the boat.

I started out with 30 pound mono and it was downright scary to get hung up.
See ya on the water..
Roy



demonick

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  • Date Registered: Apr 2009
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How do y'all secure the line at the rod end for breaking?  Just letting the reel take the tension risks damaging the reel and risks burying the line in the spooled line.  I've seen line breakers on shore casting rods.  They look like miniature dock cleats wrapped on the rod opposite the guides.  I use my largest guide instead.  Just pull some line off the spool and wrap it around the rod once or twice and loop it over the guide, then align the rod with the line and walk backwards.
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bsteves

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I use my custom Coosbayyakker Fish Stroker (or a simple dowel) to help me break off line.  Wrap the braided line around the dowel several times in order to get a good grip on it, point my rod in the direction of the snag and pull.
“People say nothing is impossible, but I do nothing every day.”

― A.A. Milne, Winnie-the-Pooh


coosbayyaker

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  • Location: Coos Bay Oregon
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I have a small length of pvc that's wrapped with electrical tape, I wrap the line around a couple times, it digs into the tape for a good grip.

See ya on the water..
Roy



boxofrain

  • Sturgeon
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  • Location: Brookings, Or.
  • Date Registered: May 2006
  • Posts: 1015
I use my fishing pliers and wrap the line to break loose.
the memories of a man in his old age, are the deeds of a man in his prime.


snopro

  • Sturgeon
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  • Date Registered: Jun 2008
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How do y'all secure the line at the rod end for breaking?  Just letting the reel take the tension risks damaging the reel and risks burying the line in the spooled line. 

I take 3 or 4 loops of slack line and wrap it between the reel foot and the reel, then pull with the rod pointing towards the snag.

Do you ever bend the eye on your rod?