T13 Shortcomings

The RP hatch it flimsy ... plain and simple.  I was power washing my yaks this weekend and fiddled around a bit with them.  It's easy to see how they would leak.  I'm gonna complain to the factory about this.

-Allen

I highly recommend adding float bags fore and aft inside the boat for any Trident owner planning on going out on the salt. With the rod pod hatch, those things are basically like a sit inside kayak with no bulkheads.....which will sink.

Same with a bilge pump.....I think it's a must have.

I've come pretty close to sinking mine just playing around in the marina.

I highly recommend adding float bags fore and aft inside the boat for any Trident owner planning on going out on the salt. With the rod pod hatch, those things are basically like a sit inside kayak with no bulkheads.....which will sink.

Same with a bilge pump.....I think it's a must have.

I think adding floatation to all kayaks is a good idea. If price is a concern a cheap alternative to float bags is a bunch of pool noodles. They run about $1 each and their floatation is pretty impressive.



Can't agree more about the bilge pump. There's been a rash of people recently who've taken on water while kayakfishing and the ones who had pumps got out of the jam a lot easier.

Z

I need to try the pool noodle...float bags eat up alot of space.

also forgot to mention, bilge pumps with the stainless steel shaft are better than the plastic shaft....I've been pumping adrenaline and water out of the yak and broken a few of the plastic shafts in a bilging fury.

also forgot to mention, bilge pumps with the stainless steel shaft are better than the plastic shaft....I've been pumping adrenaline and water out of the yak and broken a few of the plastic shafts in a bilging fury.

Great point. Scotty pumps rock.

Z

Another thing I thought about doing for both hatches, it to make a neoprene cover that would stretch over the opening and be further held down by the lid.  Still not sure on about the lip of the rod pod and how it would stay stretched and in place as the lip is aimed inward, not outward.


In the mean time, Bi-Mart has there pool noodles in stock and i'll be picking some up.  Still need to get a manual bilge pump.   I have a mental layout for a small electric system that I'd be able to use if opening the hatch to pump is not a safe idea at the time. 

Another thing I thought about doing for both hatches, it to make a neoprene cover that would stretch over the opening and be further held down by the lid.  Still not sure on about the lip of the rod pod and how it would stay stretched and in place as the lip is aimed inward, not outward.

This is an idea similar to what I've been toying with.  Either a cinchable "sock" to go over the rodpod lid or a neoprene (or similar) liner that can stretched over the opening, under the original lid. 

Took a few seconds to look into my electric pump idea, and I think it's doable. 

This link gives the basic idea, only I don't like the idea of the hull through being open all the time.
A one way valve, or just a screw on cap with a tether may be in order.

http://www.canoecolorado.com/canoeing/bilgepump/

We've done some electric and foot bilges at the shop....i just don't think it's worth it. to much to go wrong, ads allot of weight etc. a good old fashion hand bilge is cheap, easy, reliable, and worth it.

With float bags, it doesn't really matter if you blow a hatch and take on water, it won't sink...This is what is typical for whitewater canoes....and they're the sinkiest boats of all.

I recommend stow floats....they are float bags with a zipper and an air tube...so you can store gear in them, and blow them up...so less space waisted vs. traditional float bags.

We've done some electric and foot bilges at the shop....i just don't think it's worth it. to much to go wrong, ads allot of weight etc. a good old fashion hand bilge is cheap, easy, reliable, and worth it.

A small electric bilge pump, some wire, a switch, a short length of hose, and hull through that dumps into the foot well, shouldn't add more than maybe a pound, could it?  I'm already packing an 8ah 12v battery for the Cuda 250, so the bulk of the weight is already there.  The manual bilge would definitely be the primary tool, but I would have to have the rod pod open to use it.  If I'm trying to get through the chop, bad swells, or surf zone all while trying to remove water, I think the electric pump can just pump away while I'm paddling closer to shore. 

I'll have to fill my power boat hull with water and attach my 8ah battery to the bilge and see how long it can actually run before that battery is useless. 

I forgot about all the battery powered stuff you guys allready have on board. You are right, probably won't ad that much weight for the fishing yak, but I don't think they are worth it in sea kayaks that are usually shoulder carried....and you also have to put a hole in the boat for the water to exit....sit on top: not a bad idea.....fiberglass boat: no way.

I forgot about all the battery powered stuff you guys allready have on board. You are right, probably won't ad that much weight for the fishing yak, but I don't think they are worth it in sea kayaks that are usually shoulder carried....and you also have to put a hole in the boat for the water to exit....sit on top: not a bad idea.....fiberglass boat: no way.

I figure the safest place to make the exit hole would be right above the transducer label in the foot well, or somewhere in that area.  Then the water can just drain out the scupper hole.   I'm thinking the external fitting could have a tethered screw on cap. 

I figure the safest place to make the exit hole would be right above the transducer label in the foot well, or somewhere in that area.  Then the water can just drain out the scupper hole.   I'm thinking the external fitting could have a tethered screw on cap. 

Be carefull with that.  If you get some debris (or the sonarshield strap) down in that scupper, the water will be trapped in that footwell.

I need to pick up a quality hand pump.  I have considered the idea of an electric bilge pump but I think most leaks in a yak would not be a catastrophic "holed" scenario, that can get scary in a PB.  I think it would be more likely a medium to small flow leak caused by a crack in the plastic. I think this would be something you could keep ahead of with a hand pump, even if you had to stop paddling every 5 minutes to re pump the hull. 

 It might be interesting to consider installing a fitting (perhaps a 3in fuel fill fitting off a PB) in the deck. Something watertight that could be screwed shut when not in use and would  be just big enough for the hand pump shaft to fit through (perhaps right over the center line of the yak near the seat) so you could pump out the hull without having any hatches open.  That way even with a big leak you could paddle paddle paddle, pump pump pump, paddle paddle and not have to stop, open a hatch, get out you pump etc. 

I figure the safest place to make the exit hole would be right above the transducer label in the foot well, or somewhere in that area.  Then the water can just drain out the scupper hole.   I'm thinking the external fitting could have a tethered screw on cap. 

Be carefull with that.  If you get some debris (or the sonarshield strap) down in that scupper, the water will be trapped in that footwell.

I'm sure I don't know what your talking about.   

My sonar shield is strap free! 
I removed the straps in favor of the bungee.  It offers several improvements; like not plugging the scupper hole, I can lash stuff down under the bungee, and for the most part I can operate it all one handed.