Best Roof rack for the Yak?

Just bought a new yak hauler, 2010  Subaru Forrester,  No more packing the yaks with the big blue gas guzzler, its now the dedicated PB puller.  I fish cobra fish n dives and was curious what rack system would work best for big wide yaks (36" by 12'), I have looked online and there are tons to chose from, saddles, rollers, etc. etc.   What works best??

On my Outback wagon (slightly lower roofline), I've found that a simple set of after market load bars works best and least expensive option out there. A strap thrown across each load bar and a bow and stern line attached to the vehicle is all that you need. We also have a folding J-rack that we can put on quickly if my wife's kayak is also getting loaded. But at least half the time we take both kayaks, we just strap them down individually.

Jay

I'm a huge fan of the Thule 887 Slipstream:
http://www.thuleracks.com/product.asp?dept_id=10&sku=887XT

Works great for me.  The long base makes a bow and stern line unnecessary.  Also the ability to slide the whole unit forward and back about 18" makes centering and loading really easy (keeps me from rubbing the yak on my trunk when i load it by myself).  

I just throw my kayak, cockpit side down, on top of the two load bars. I have pipe insulation covering the bars. Two straps and done. Just like the poster above...

I decided to not use the foam so that the kayak slides into position easier.

I've tried a few different saddles and have come to the conclusion that turning them over without the saddles works best.

-Allen

I really like my yakima mako saddles and hully roller setup on my xterra. Then again, it is a nastier dead lift than say on top of a Subaru. Not that big of a fan of running them upside down, you catch a lot more wind which inevitably tries to lift the yak off the rig imho and certainly can't help mileage at all. 

... except most saddle will oil can your plastic ...

-Allen

I really like my yakima mako saddles and hully roller setup on my xterra. Then again, it is a nastier dead lift than say on top of a Subaru. Not that big of a fan of running them upside down, you catch a lot more wind which inevitably tries to lift the yak off the rig imho and certainly can't help mileage at all. 

Lift eliminated with bow/stern lines...

I'm a huge fan of the Thule 887 Slipstream:
The long base makes a bow and stern line unnecessary.

Dude, I'd use the bow and stern tiedowns if your going to be going any distance, or high wind.  Not sure where you heard that setup didn't need the bow and stern, but the bow and stern lines do come with that carrier and in the instructions for the slipstream it states to always tiw down the bow and stern (Just double checked the pdf)

http://www.thuleracks.com/instructions/5015719,%20887xt.pdf

I've logged 1600 miles (atleast half freeway 80mph) with that rack and the kayak doesn't even move an inch.  In fact that's how I got to salem from ferndale the first day I owned it.  I'm not concerned at all about a bow or stern line.  Of course the instructions are gonna say do the safest thing possible.  Lol hell in theory i should wear a life jacket and helmet when I surf... ya no thanks.

I really like my yakima mako saddles and hully roller setup on my xterra. Then again, it is a nastier dead lift than say on top of a Subaru. Not that big of a fan of running them upside down, you catch a lot more wind which inevitably tries to lift the yak off the rig imho and certainly can't help mileage at all. 

Lift eliminated with bow/stern lines...

LOL, you want to tell me how bow/stern lines eliminate lift or get rid of the mileage hit? Sure they are an added safety measure and sure you should be running them, but that doesn't stop the fact that wind is trying to lift the yak off of the rig, just like it does with a canoe. It may not budge an inch because you have it strapped down tight, but it doesn't stop the fact that wind being wind is catching on the flipped yak, filling those voids and trying to lift.

I've logged 1600 miles (atleast half freeway 80mph) with that rack and the kayak doesn't even move an inch.  In fact that's how I got to salem from ferndale the first day I owned it.  I'm not concerned at all about a bow or stern line.  Of course the instructions are gonna say do the safest thing possible.  Lol hell in theory i should wear a life jacket and helmet when I surf... ya no thanks.

*shrugs* a kayak is an investment, just hate to see anyone loose one because they couldn;'t be bothered with that 2 minutes of extra straps (you got places to be right!)...

Anyways, glad I chose to go with a drysuit and not take your advice of just using a drytop with a sprayskirt on my SIK.  First time out a large wave dumped my ass, pulling off the sprayskirt, to each their own but I like to error on the side of caution.

I really like my yakima mako saddles and hully roller setup on my xterra. Then again, it is a nastier dead lift than say on top of a Subaru. Not that big of a fan of running them upside down, you catch a lot more wind which inevitably tries to lift the yak off the rig imho and certainly can't help mileage at all. 

Lift eliminated with bow/stern lines...

Bow and stern lines won't change the drag coefficients or keep wind from contouring your vehicle and catching under the yak.  I've traveled with my t13 both ways and upside down on the roof rack caused more of a mpg hit than on my saddle setup.

I personally think the difference in lift is marginal and I've logged literally 1000's of miles both ways.  The bow is not at all concave and that's the part that is hanging out over the front.  The cockpit is over the roof of my SUV.  The tankwell is at the back, usually over the roof of my SUV (this may not apply to a car).

On my SUV in CA, I don't have racks right now.  I'm using temporary pads with the kayak right side up.  My highway mileage drops from 27-28 to 23.  It's a Highlander Hybrid.  So I take a pretty big hit no matter what.  Keep the speedo below 60-65 has a bigger effect than putting my yaks right side up or right side down.

-Allen