New truck, need rack

Guys, I sold my full-size F-150 and bought a Nissan Frontier Crew Cab with that short, five-foot bed. Any suggestions on a rack to haul my Trident 13? I want to go fishing!

Guys, I sold my full-size F-150 and bought a Nissan Frontier Crew Cab with that short, five-foot bed. Any suggestions on a rack to haul my Trident 13? I want to go fishing!

I love my Kargo Master on my Toyota Tacoma, but I needed a lumber rack.

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4371.0;attach=5657;image

Nice, Demonick, but I'll bet it wasn't cheap!

$750 installed by Nelson Truck Equipment.  I plan on keeping the truck a long, long time (still driving my '92 car).

I'm a BIG fan of the HF Bed Extender that plugs into your receiver. Best thing about it is no overhead lifting and you don't have to completely un-rig the boat for short moves.

Problem is I don't see it on the HF page anymore. They will probably reintroduce it as a kayak carrier and sell it for $70.  It was waaaay too good for $30.

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=45830&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=

I use this Thule Xsporter rack on my 2006 Frontier crew cab with the short bed.  I often carry a 15' Prowler and a Scrambler XT with it.  The new model looks like it has more slots in the towers for additional heights.  I had to modify the rail system in the 2006 Frontier to fit the attachment brackets, but nothing that can't be reversed.  I just had to enlarge some holes in the aluminum rails.

Because of the rear wheel wells, the front tower will not go down all the way.  My rack isn't tall enough to haul my prowler 15 upside down, so I use saddles.  Not the best solution, but it works.  For short hauls, I run with the rear bar down to make loading and unloading easier.  Thule may even have a new model that fits your truck without having to modify the bed rails.

Cost about $500, but works and looks nice on my silver Frontier 

Great ideas, guys, and thanks. Islander, your truck looks familiar. Mine is a white 2010.
I'm kind of leaning toward the Thule Goal Post rear and a foam cushion for the roof as an economical solution. The Yakima Dry Dock also looks good, and seems like it would accommodate a roller of some sort to ease loading and unloading -- a real concern for this older guy ...

I have a Titan, which also has a pretty short bed. I use the Yakima Dry Dock and one roof rack, which I threw a length of PVC pipe on each w/  pipe insulation wrapped in gorilla tape and it works very well as a makeshift roller. I carry a Big Game and a Scrambler XL on it.




When I'm just taking out my Big Game, I use the Harbor Freight bed extended. I agree with the guy above...it's a steal for 30 bucks. The store in North Portland had some in stock two weeks ago.

Demonick, I'm curious if you really need to tie the ends of the yaks down with such a nice spread on where you have them lashed in the middle.  You're pinching the narrower areas of the belly on both ends, on both yaks and looks pretty solid.  It's just a question of necessity.   In the picture of mine you can see I've only used the two lashing straps and no front/tail tie downs.  I usually leave my T-13 mounted for months up there like that with zero need to retighten, and no fear of it jumping off. 






BTW, good luck wearing that truck out anytime soon.  I just replaced my tires for the second time since I purchase it new in 1997.  81K miles on the factory tires, and 79K on the second set.  Still rolling with the factory clutch, and spark plugs at 160K+ miles. 

i have no complaints about the lumber rack, tying the two off was a challenge at first. but takeing just one kayak is cake.

I have the same setup as Islander w/ the thule glide and set saddles.  The rack model is the Thule Xsporter 421. 

I'm loving it so far.  Kayak setup on the left and cargo box on the right side. 

Demonick, I'm curious if you really need to tie the ends of the yaks down with such a nice spread on where you have them lashed in the middle.  You're pinching the narrower areas of the belly on both ends, on both yaks and looks pretty solid.  It's just a question of necessity.   In the picture of mine you can see I've only used the two lashing straps and no front/tail tie downs.  I usually leave my T-13 mounted for months up there like that with zero need to retighten, and no fear of it jumping off.  

I don't use them unless I am going far which is rare.  The photo is geared up for Moses Lake.  Both the front and rear tie-downs are not exerting significant downward force.  They are just safety lines in case of a rear-end or short stop.  Probably a vain hope that they would hold.  I'll take your advice next time I am tempted to use them.

BTW, good luck wearing that truck out anytime soon.  I just replaced my tires for the second time since I purchase it new in 1997.  81K miles on the factory tires, and 79K on the second set.  Still rolling with the factory clutch, and spark plugs at 160K+ miles.  

Just what I wanted to hear.  Thanks.  Considering I am only driving it about 2000 miles a year it should last some time, but when you need a truck, you need a truck.

Fisherman James, I had a truck like yours as well at one point.  1985 XtraCab 4x4 with a 22R 4spd.  Loved that truck, but was a bit underpowered to tow an ATV trailer up and down from the Willamette Valley to the good riding areas. I'd love to have that truck back and slap a 3.4L V6 in.

I use ratchet straps to tie my yak down. I put the yak straight on the bars upside down and then I run one strap through the carry handle, over and back through the other carry handle. I don't tighten this one too much because it'll squish the yak. The other strap goes right over my footwell scuppers and that's the one that gets really tight.

This set-up eliminates the need for bow/stern straps. The fastest I have gone is around 80mph on the freeway and my yak never budged!