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Topic: ROD/FF MOUNTING  (Read 4667 times)

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HUNTINHICK

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  • Location: UNION WA (HOOD CANAL)
  • Date Registered: Aug 2007
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Hello all,

Well I have my kayks sitting in the trailer now and I am going to install the rod holders and fishing finder to them.  on the caper I tried mounting the rod holder just above the cup holder, it did not seem very sturdy,  if I back it will that help or maybe use two pieces of cutting board plastic one on the inside and one on the outside to make it stonger.  I now realize that I need extensions on the rod holder due to the long handles of salmon rods so I need it as strong as possible.  also my malilbu 2 does not have hatches what is the most affordable way to put in a hatch so I can install a transducer?

thanks
Carl


Pisco Sicko

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  • Date Registered: Apr 2006
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Backing plates are an excellent idea to stiffen the connection between accessory and boat.

Here's a link to Cabela's and deck plates. They are small enough to be located fairly easily (you'll need a flat space the size of the hatch), but big enough for your fist. http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?id=0025069016830a&navCount=1&podId=0025069&parentId=cat21314&masterpathid=&navAction=jump&cmCat=MainCatcat21276-cat601337-cat21314&catalogCode=IH&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat21314&hasJS=true


HUNTINHICK

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Thank you that is exactly what i was looking for just enough to get access into the hull for mounting purposes.  I am going to have to extensions for the rod holds do I need to worry about more pressure on the rod holder bases or at kayak speeds is it no worry?  I am thinking about getting the 6 1/2 plastic extension that just attach at the adjustment point, does anyone have any input on them?

Thanks
Carl


polepole

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The Malibu Two XL in intended to take the tupperware style hatch covers.  But I'm sure you can fit the deckplate style.  You may want to check out the "T handle" style as they are easy to get in and out of.  Go with the biggest you can get that will fit the opening as I'm sure you'll end up using it.  I think you should be able to fit an 8" hatch, but double check to make sure.

-Allen


  • Don't ask me how I know!
  • Date Registered: Nov 2006
  • Posts: 1704
Code: [Select]
The Malibu Two XL in intended to take the tupperware style hatch covers.
Tupperware? I know Tupperware! ;)

 Whatever kind of hatch you add, don’t get one that screws on (the hatch, not the hardware). Screw-in's are a massive pain to get on or off if any bit of grit or sand gets in the threads.  I installed a threaded one on my Heritage pro 14  and eventually had to add a handle to it to get it off. The dogged (latched), pop-in, or Tupperware topped hatches are MUCH easier to live with and hold up much better in use. I like the latched hatches with the T-shaped dogs like the Cobra hatch best.  I've had one on my Cobra XL for a while and its holding up great. The Hobie dogged hatch is also really (REALLY) good.
 
 I think the center hatch is God’s gift to kayak fisher folk. Not only does it allows you access to mount stuff. You can pack like Mark Sosin with a bunch of tackle trays that can fit through the hole. String them together and you can pull them out one at a time. On the other hand, you (I) tend to carry waaaaaay too much sh*t.

 For your rod holders, plan carefully where you want them (or any other accessory for that matter) before you start cutting. It’s really best to get in the boat in the water and plan your spot. Make sure the rodholder will be accessible, doesn't get in the way of your stroke, and doesn't get in your way when you are fishing in positions other than in the seat (like side saddle, or scooting up to the front or rear hatch). Then mark the spot with a black marker. The idea is to get it right the first time as its a bit of PITA to weld up holes (ask me how I know  ). You can do it on the ground, but its not as good.

 I used to be a big advocate of flushmount rodholders (the type that the butt of the rod goes into) But lately I have been using the Scotty types with the extension in their flushmount base.  I also adapted my FF to use the Scotty base. Now I can rearrange the rodholders and FF to different configurations when it tickles me.  The rod holder extensions do increase the lever arm and put a pretty good load on the rail, so backing the base fasteners is a really good idea. I used rivets in mine and they failed (pulled through) but mine are waay overloaded with my downrigger on the extension.


 I like a hole saw to cut the big hole and make it a bit under-sized, then finish up the hole with a coarse file and clean it up with a utility knife (box-cutter) But a Debrurring tool is worth its weight in gold. Home Despot usually has them in the plumbing department for about $10 bucks. You drill or cut the hole slightly undersized, then open it up with a few turns of the Debrurring tool till the fitting goes in snugly (check the fit often and don't over do it). You end up with a dang near water-tight seal with no goop! No kayak pimping kit should be without it.

Use stainless screws, fender washers and locknuts if you can. There is a great tutorial about rigging hardware at Apalach’s page:

http://www.fcka.net/cat001/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=428&highlight=stanley+rivet+tool

It’s worth a look.






"For when sleeping I dream of big fish and strong fights"


HUNTINHICK

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Thanks for all the info.  I got the rod holder mounted on my daughters caper last night.  I used ss bolts, fender washers and nylock nuts.  I used 2 pieces of poly cutting board one on either side of the deck with lots of goop in between all of that, then put the bolts through, I should have bought 2 1/2 bolts and made it a little easier for my self but I was able to catch a couple thread to get the nut started.  I also picked up the 6" scotty extension and when it was all said and done it was nice and tight.  tonight I start on my ocean malibu XL II. 

FFTW,  I see that you have mounted the fish finder in the hatch,  does it get in the way there?  I have a place for a hatch in the same spot on my double that might work like that.  also did you buy the adapter on the FF or make it?

Carl


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That space between your legs is really pretty dead and well protected. (Man, that just sounds really bad :o ) Well, at least as far as a FF is concerned.  The only time it gets in the way is when I’m moving around on the boat and it comes out of the mount and has a good amount of slack in the cable.
  I made the mount out from the base part of a cheap rodholder I found while fishing. I just replaced the base of the ff with the part of the rod holder that plugs into the mount. I’ll post a how-to if your interested.
"For when sleeping I dream of big fish and strong fights"


HUNTINHICK

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  • Date Registered: Aug 2007
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FFTW,

Yes, please post a how to.  I think that might be the way to go for my double so I can take it out all together when I am using it as a double with my kids. plus I realy like the ability to switch things around.  Do you think the hatch mount is strong enough to take a rod holder?  Also do you plug up the hole where the wires come out?  My FF has a plug where the power and transducer cable come together almost the size of a cigarette lighter plug, which means a big hole to cover up.  I thought about getting a rubber plug, like I saw in a how to somewhere, which I can't find again, with holes in it for the wires.

Carl


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I think the hatch makes a stronger mount than pretty much anywhere on the boat. The hatch is stiff and makes a very wide base (that assumes any hatch other than the Tupperware tops). My Lowrance ff has a relativity small plug and fits through the flush mount base hole and I drilled out the adapted to pass it through as well. I made a grommet out of those foam floor tiles and gooped it to the wire about a foot or so down. That seals the hole when the ff is in place. I put the a pool noodle plug in the other flush mount bases when they’re empty (not often). I’ll try to cob together a how-to when I get home.
"For when sleeping I dream of big fish and strong fights"


polepole

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I'll give a slightly different perspective.  I don't want anything between my legs ... well, except that which is there naturally.   ::)

I try to keep the immediate area around my lap clear of everything.  My rod holders and FF are mounted in front of my feet.

-Allen


Mooch

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Quote
I try to keep the immediate area around my lap clear of everything.  My rod holders and FF are mounted in front of my feet.

I'm a firm believer of this as well. The area between your legs is the best place to subdue and secure your catch. So I try to keep this area clutter free.

Ever get a Halibut lap dance?  :o

That's just how I roll  ;)
« Last Edit: September 27, 2007, 11:31:49 AM by Mooch »


HUNTINHICK

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I see the point about the area between you legs being usefull, in my case  maybe to usefull 3.7 kids,  ;D     The hatch sounds like a good way to remove the transducer/power cable plug with out having a extra 1 1/2" hole in the boat.  I just know my boys would yank the cable out if I leave it hanging there while I take them out.  I have an old rod holder with a side mount that I can not find a flush mount for (it doesn't have a brand name) I might try mounting that on the side,  not sure I want shell out for another flush mount and rod holder just to cut them up.  but then again if they all use the same base you can move things around easier. do you think the side mount w/ FF would be to much in the way VS. a flush mount?

Carl


  • Don't ask me how I know!
  • Date Registered: Nov 2006
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Carl:
No, all flush mounts are not interchagable! Try before you buy! That said you can get one to fit another with a bit of effort (and a biggaz hammer). But then I'm of the Marcellis Wallace school of thought*.

Polepole is a youngster and still has his eyes. I, however, am not and I traded my eyes for a belly (poor trade). Heck, he doesn’t even dance to get in his dry suit! ::)

 I initially had the ff in the port flush mount, but I found it to be a tad out of reach and did not use the gps functions.  Now that it’s closer, I actually use it all the time. I also wanted to use the port mount for my downrigger. The ff removes easily and is no more in the way than the pedals. I pull the cable inside the hull when the ff is not in the socket (surf launches and landings).  I’m sure it gets more wear getting knocked around like this, but so far so good (although I really do need to plug that nema socket on the back of the ff)  It has not gotten in the way of the few lings and rockfish I’ve caught in this boat. I had no problem administering the wood shampoo with them, but the boat is young.  Mooch, your scaring me man! I avoid Halibut lap dances.  They actually scare me more than all the other toothy critters.





*Marcellis Wallace is of the mind that anything can be fixed with a blow torch and a pair of pliers

« Last Edit: September 27, 2007, 01:36:57 PM by Fishesfromtupperware »
"For when sleeping I dream of big fish and strong fights"


polepole

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A FF that close to me would get rather uncomfortable when I slide forward and lean back to take a nap.    ;D

-Allen


HUNTINHICK

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ok I think I have this figured out.  the kayak I have, http://www.oceankayak.com/kayaks/tandems/malibu_two_xl.html  has 3 places for hatches.  One in the rear one in the middle and one on front when set up in solo mode the middle hatch is right under you knees but the front one is just past my feet.  I am thinking of putting in a small hatch there to get into the hull to mount the transducer then mounting my FF to the hatch, then I can get another lid for the hatch and just swap them out when I need to use it as a tadem.  also I bought a large (chalking tube) amount of goop,  I used some then realized that is the label says it will dry out,  i covered it with some plastic wrap how long do you think it will last 2-3 days?

Carl