waterproofing FF cables run thru hatch

I found this to be a great solution for little money.   These allow connectors up to 1" in diameter to pass through with no need of cutting the wires and reconnecting.   When the face is screwed down in place, the wires then exit a pretty small exit point.  The Transducer / power wires for my FF/GPS take up 65% of that opening so just a dab of silicon behind the face makes it essentially waterproof.  Down the road if I need to run another wire through I just remove face, peel away old silicon caulking, run new wire though, re-caulk and place face back on.   I like that it angles the wires flush to the mounting surface vs. shooting straight out for a low profile clean finish.    Just what I need for my next kayak project, the "SAT Dish and Espresso Machine Mod"

I found this to be a great solution for little money. ...

Where did you get them?

West Marine.  I think they are right at 6 bucks so maybe not the cheapest option but I like the finished look. 

I used this on mini x. Got it from west marine. I don't like the way it sticks out so I think there are better options but it hasn't been a problem yet and is watertight. Just another option.

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kfDY3TEoubY/TYoQSqvWcKI/AAAAAAAABBc/611PMnxalu0/s1024/Kayak%20mod%203.JPG


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West Marine.  I think they are right at 6 bucks so maybe not the cheapest option but I like the finished look. 

That is kick ass clean and professional looking right there.  Beats the heck out of my rubber stopper.  If I have to replace my stopper or run more wires, I'm looking for one of those fittings for sure.

Thanks.  Very timely as I am about to rewire (again) the Revo13 after I install the YakAttack GT90s.  Now the power and transducer cables run up and under the bow hatch, but I have a hole where the unused, superceded, power plug is still located. 

I was going to use the waterproof pass throughs from Hook1 on my ducer cable. The hole required was too large, so I went rubber stopper. Not the greatest looking, but it doesn't leak.

I think the ducer connector on my 597 was 3/8" wide, which needed the 3/4" fitting, which would have required a 1" hole. About twice as big a hole as actually needed to run the wire.

Wonder how big a hole you need to drill for the West Marine cable clams?

Funny, I just punched that hole a few minutes ago and put it away to dry. The West Marine thru plugs need a 1" hole, much bigger than the typical terminal plug for a FF, but they finish off well and you can pack them with silicone. Yes, I found myself apologizing aloud when I drilled a 1" hole thru the deck, and I paddle fiberglass....ouch. But the final product looks clean.

I figured worst case,  they do have water proof plugs that install with a very flush finish should I ever not need cables passing through at the installed location.   There is a much better chance that I may find some wild haired reason to need additional cables coming through and that 1" hole allows fairly large connectors to pass through and past the existing cables.

I noticed in Western Marine's catalog photo,  they are shown without their logo molded on the face.   I am guessing somewhere out there is a generic version perhaps sold for much less

One thing I noticed with this is the 3 screws provided to hold the face down are very small and I am not certain how well they will hold if a cable is snagged and yanked on.   I may see if I can get some bolts / nuts small enough to replace them.

Might work out for my Yak / Home Theater Mod if I can just figure out where to put the subwoofer




 

I love all the input from everone helping out someone in need ( like my self ) would love to see photo's of the job done after all the great in put that has been givin.

This is pretty old. Wondering what the end outcome is with this idea two years later?