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Topic: Mounting Transducer  (Read 5128 times)

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mcdc1369

  • Perch
  • ***
  • Location: Kent
  • Date Registered: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 81
I just got a new F.F. Piranha Max 240
Where and how do I mount the transducer??


coosbayyaker

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  • Location: Coos Bay Oregon
  • Date Registered: Oct 2007
  • Posts: 3862
here ya go, I asked the same question when i first signed up:

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,681.0.html


See ya on the water..
Roy



Pisco Sicko

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  • Location: South Lake Tahoe, CA
  • Date Registered: Apr 2006
  • Posts: 1553
I'd seriously check out the NCKA site, too. I haven't spent much time on it, in the last couple of years, but can only imagine they've figured out some slicker systems.
The one I liked the most involves gluing a piece of pool float to the hull, with a cavity in the center, allowing a tight friction fit of the transducer.


ZeeHawk

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I'd seriously check out the NCKA site, too. I haven't spent much time on it, in the last couple of years, but can only imagine they've figured out some slicker systems.
The one I liked the most involves gluing a piece of pool float to the hull, with a cavity in the center, allowing a tight friction fit of the transducer.

Good advice. BTW, I've used that trans. mount system and has worked quite well.


Z
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mcdc1369

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  • Location: Kent
  • Date Registered: Nov 2007
  • Posts: 81
Thanks for the info!!
Another dumb question, does it matter wich way faces the front??


mcdc1369

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  • Date Registered: Nov 2007
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Ok I know you guyes are probly sick of my stupid questions, but I have one more.
How do you know if you got all the air bubbles out of the marine goop?
I heard that your F.F. wont function properly if there is air bubbles.
I never used a F.F. so what would I want to look for when I use it to tell  if there is any ari bubbles?
Please help me.... ???


polepole

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Ok I know you guyes are probly sick of my stupid questions, but I have one more.
How do you know if you got all the air bubbles out of the marine goop?
I heard that your F.F. wont function properly if there is air bubbles.
I never used a F.F. so what would I want to look for when I use it to tell  if there is any ari bubbles?
Please help me.... ???


When the goop is bad, I tend to see a darker band in the top 5-10 feet of water.  And I think I stop marking mid water fish.  You'll still mark bottom though.  I haven't gotten bad goop the first time around.  But it lasts about 1.5 to 2 years before I have to redo the setting.  It starts to get milky.

-Allen


coosbayyaker

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  • Date Registered: Oct 2007
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Thanks for the info!!
Another dumb question, does it matter wich way faces the front??

yes, it does. Don't ask me why, but my instruction book says to.
See ya on the water..
Roy



polepole

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Thanks for the info!!
Another dumb question, does it matter wich way faces the front??

yes, it does. Don't ask me why, but my instruction book says to.

I didn't read the instruction book, so what do I know?   :D  Well, I know that it works equally well if I'm paddling forward, back paddling, or sitting still.  I think if you were to do a transom mount and you have the assumption that you're mostly moving forward, then you want it pointing forward for least resistance and turbulence which may affect signal quality.  But if you're mounting inside the yak, that probably is not an issue.

-Allen


HobieSport

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I use the NCKA foam-donut/marine goop (silocon) pool float/water method and it works like a charm. 
It's very easy to install, is accurate, and the thermometer works pretty well too.
Just check the little bit of water under the 'ducer befor you launch. 
And it's portable too so I can switch to other boats with the same system.
Just my .02
Two things are infinite...


Spot

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I'll second what HobieSport said.  I cut a peice of two ply packing foam (~2.5" thick) to shape and Gooped it to the bottom of my yak.  It worked like a charm.  As a side benefit, I don't need to worry about the battery pack or the other stuff I stash inside my boat, damaging the transducer when I surf launch because it's protected by the foam.


I connect both the power supply and transducer using two pin trailer connectors.  The splices were wrapped and then coated with liquid electical tape for a waterproof seal.  If you choose to do this, make sure to color code your connections!
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  • Don't ask me how I know!
  • Date Registered: Nov 2006
  • Posts: 1704
Goop works pretty good. Mine has been stuck for 10+ years and counting!
(Why yes, as a matter of fact I am still claiming to be the original goop ball) ;D

But you could go one simpler and try no glue at all. I used a short length of oversized pool noodle, carved a divot in the end to make the transducer fit flush, led the wire up through the noodle and shoved it between the bottom of the seat and the hull with the transducer facing down. Works GREAT. No goop, just the pressure from the foam. Totally removable (haven't quite figured out why I'd want to remove it though). A dab of vasaline on the face of the transducer might be a good idea but mine is working wonderfully without it (first time I could watch my bait go up and down on my ff). Wish I could claim that idea, but I got it from the KFS board.

"For when sleeping I dream of big fish and strong fights"


mcdc1369

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  • Date Registered: Nov 2007
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Thanks for all of your great advice ;D
I went with the old school way and just used the goop.
I'm going to go and try it out tomorrow..


coosbayyaker

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  • Location: Coos Bay Oregon
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Thanks for all of your great advice ;D
I went with the old school way and just used the goop.
I'm going to go and try it out tomorrow..


I got mine, now i can see all the fish i can't catch instead of beleiving there just not there.... :sad1:
See ya on the water..
Roy



HobieSport

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Fishesfromtupperware;

Great K.I.S.S. method!  Love it.  As long as it gets an accurate read.  It that what the vasaline would be for is for?  For a more accurate read? 
(I think I just set myself up for some ribald humor here...;D
Two things are infinite...


 

anything