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Topic: FF install and Questions  (Read 8545 times)

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beer2O

  • Perch
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  • Location: Bothell, WA
  • Date Registered: Jul 2014
  • Posts: 84
Recently went ahead and installed a Lowrance 4 HDI on my Trident 13.

Since the transducer is so big and I didnt want to damage it by installing through the scupper, I went ahead and bought a magnetic transducer mount from FishFinderMounts.com.
The mount is awesome and simple to use.

My question is about the plugs I used to connect the battery to the FF.

http://www.idealindustries.ca/products/wire_termination/luminaire_disconnects/powerplug_stnd_2-wire.php

They are rated for 6amp/600V. I just wanted to ask anyone with more electrical expertise if this is suitable or not. I installed them they seem to work fine, but over a longer period of time I'm not positive.


Thanks for the help!!!!
« Last Edit: January 28, 2015, 07:24:21 AM by paul550 »
2015 Hobie Outback
2011 Hobie Revo 13


The Bike Rat

  • Herring
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  • Location: Sandy Oregon
  • Date Registered: Jan 2013
  • Posts: 33
That connector should be fine.  You will never draw that much current unless something is shorted.  I did not notice if you had fused the power lead from the battery.  If it is not, you need to add that.  Place the fuse as near the battery connection as you can to protect the wiring and electronics.  I like that mount, Have you paddled with it yet?  I am wondering how much the off center transducer affects steering.  I think I might have to try one.
Steve
USAF (Ret)

Eagle Talon


DWB123

  • Salmon
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  • Location: Seattle, WA
  • Date Registered: Aug 2013
  • Posts: 841
i'm envious - those cable clams are super nice. i ended up doing a diy rubber stopper/grommet seal cause i'm a cheapo (method shown here - http://www.kayakfishinggear.com/pages/fishfinder-installation). i might recommend tossing the battery in a dry-bag, though, for some extra protection.

re: steering - i used to have a similar setup (have since switched to thru-hull/goop/foam method), and it didn't affect it in the slightest, or at least to the point that it was noticeable.


DWB123

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yep - i did the same thing - spliced male connector into battery cable, female into charger cable. no problemo.


  • WS Commander 120, OK Trident 13, Revo 13
  • Location: Creswell OR
  • Date Registered: Jan 2011
  • Posts: 804
Other than the fuse as previously mentioned, the connectors are definitely sufficient for the amp draw of your FF. That's not the problem.

Corrosion is the enemy! I LOVE what you did there by gooping the spade connectors right on to the battery terminals to seal them. I learned my lesson the hard way on that one! I had a brand new battery that in less than a couple of months completely corroded off one of the exposed battery terminals.  :o Those are SO thin anyway! keeping it clean in a sealed up in a drybag is a good idea too. Now I use sealing Packard (Weatherpack) connectors on all my connections anyway. I think this is what is factory for what Hobie uses also.

The magnetic mount intrigues me... I hope it has enough power to keep it attached and not get knocked off too easily. Ive been using a RAM deployment arm and works fine for me. I don't really feel a side pull or mess with my steering per-se, but it does get a little annoying noisy swooshing through the water when I get paddling.
Better to keep ones mouth shut and presumed a fool than to open it and remove all doubt.
<Proverbs>


beer2O

  • Perch
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  • Location: Bothell, WA
  • Date Registered: Jul 2014
  • Posts: 84
They have two model mounts which have different strength magnets. I got the higher of the two. It seems to have enough grab and doesn't slide at all, but the real test will be out on the water... Hopefully this weekend.

I will updated once I have fully tested it.

I thought about the Ram arm but was afraid it wouldnt be long enough to reach from the rodpod holes all the way to the water. Plus with the magnetic mount all I need is another power cable and I can swap the FF from boat to boat.

Since I have a battery bag that the bow of my kayak, I dont think It would be possible to dry bag the battery and still have it fit in the bag. Any advice on this?
2015 Hobie Outback
2011 Hobie Revo 13


  • WS Commander 120, OK Trident 13, Revo 13
  • Location: Creswell OR
  • Date Registered: Jan 2011
  • Posts: 804
Since I have a battery bag that the bow of my kayak, I dont think It would be possible to dry bag the battery and still have it fit in the bag. Any advice on this?

That zippered bag that comes in the bow of the trident is nylon and NOT waterproof by any means. As a matter of fact. I believe that bag was what caused my battery terminal to corrode off. It's kind of a PITA to install it in and out of the factory straps to clean it and dry it. and even then it holds moisture. Not a good combo for a battery; especially if you are in the salt. My advise on this? Ditch the Trident battery bag. Use it for tackle or something. Get a dry bag or dry box-something waterproof that is easy to get in and out. It will just set up in the front bow hatch just fine, or clip it on to the straps for your original battery bag. You could apply Velcro strips if you wanted. Clean and inspect your terminals, pins, and connections often. Dielectric grease is your friend.

BTW- I swap my battery, deployment arm, FF and complete mount arm, and all of the cabling between my Trident and my Hobie all the time. Takes less than a minute.
Better to keep ones mouth shut and presumed a fool than to open it and remove all doubt.
<Proverbs>


beer2O

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  • Date Registered: Jul 2014
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I was thinking possibly spraying the battery bag with plasti-dip or some sort of rubberized coating. Then gooping the hole in the front. Only question would be if the zipper is water proof enough.

I dont know if i would trust velcro to hold down a 5 pound battery, also I dont think there are any flat surfaces in the bow to mount the box if that was the route I went. I have seen people strap them to the scupper tubes, but that doesnt seem like the route i want to go since I like having all the space I can in the Hull.

I did buy some velcro and am planning to use it as straps to hold down rods and small dry boxes within the hull.

And my concern with putting it in a dry bag is the corners of the battery wearing holes in it.

Just had an idea, i could full the hull with pool noodles and velcro them down. Then cut a hole to fit the battery box.... hmmm.

2015 Hobie Outback
2011 Hobie Revo 13


FireFly

  • Salmon
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  • Date Registered: Jul 2013
  • Posts: 533
I was thinking possibly spraying the battery bag with plasti-dip or some sort of rubberized coating. Then gooping the hole in the front. Only question would be if the zipper is water proof enough.

The zipper on the bag SUCKS!!!!! I just replaced my bag less then a year ago and the salt has already taking its toll on it thats with cleaning it after each outing. I will definately be coming up with a better way to store my battery.
Red Hobie Outback

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beer2O

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  • Location: Bothell, WA
  • Date Registered: Jul 2014
  • Posts: 84
After researching a little more, Im leaning toward a blue pack battery which is considerably smaller.

Ill probably use this regular battery until I encounter an issue then switch to the blue pack and make a little dry box which fits in the OK battery bag.
2015 Hobie Outback
2011 Hobie Revo 13


DWB123

  • Salmon
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  • Location: Seattle, WA
  • Date Registered: Aug 2013
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if you go the dry-bag route, just get a normal dry bag, insert battery with cable running out the top, then roll/seal. i've had no leakage at all.


beer2O

  • Perch
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  • Location: Bothell, WA
  • Date Registered: Jul 2014
  • Posts: 84
Where do you secure the dry bag?
2015 Hobie Outback
2011 Hobie Revo 13


  • WS Commander 120, OK Trident 13, Revo 13
  • Location: Creswell OR
  • Date Registered: Jan 2011
  • Posts: 804
Where do you secure the dry bag?
I roll up the dry bag top with the battery leaving a little air in it (also helps for flotation). I have a large carabineer that I put through the rolled up dry top clip and secure it around the scupper tube and push the bag between the sonar shield and the bottom of the hull. This is the area where most people put their foam puck for their transducer, but will work for you. This leave plenty of room in the hatch for wheeleez or whatever.
Better to keep ones mouth shut and presumed a fool than to open it and remove all doubt.
<Proverbs>


pmmpete

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  • Date Registered: Jul 2013
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The first thing I did when I bought my Trident was to remove the nylon battery bag and throw it away.  If you search this forum for information about battery boxes, you’ll come up with many excellent suggestions.  My battery box, pictures of which are shown below, is one of many ways to keep a battery and its electrical connections dry and protected.  It’s based on an inexpensive Walmart dry box.




« Last Edit: January 29, 2015, 02:30:53 PM by pmmpete »


PNW

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Other than the fuse as previously mentioned, the connectors are definitely sufficient for the amp draw of your FF. That's not the problem.

Corrosion is the enemy! I LOVE what you did there by gooping the spade connectors right on to the battery terminals to seal them. I learned my lesson the hard way on that one! I had a brand new battery that in less than a couple of months completely corroded off one of the exposed battery terminals.  :o Those are SO thin anyway! keeping it clean in a sealed up in a drybag is a good idea too. Now I use sealing Packard (Weatherpack) connectors on all my connections anyway. I think this is what is factory for what Hobie uses also.

The magnetic mount intrigues me... I hope it has enough power to keep it attached and not get knocked off too easily. Ive been using a RAM deployment arm and works fine for me. I don't really feel a side pull or mess with my steering per-se, but it does get a little annoying noisy swooshing through the water when I get paddling.
Erik - I'm guessing those Weatherpack connectors are waterproof, correct? I'm waiting for the battery box to arrive, then I'll put the contraption together, hopefully tomorrow. I'll be able to attach the whole thing to the rail. Dana is using the same setup I'm getting, so he's given me some good advice also. Went with an AGM on the battery. Since the box isn't waterproof, I want to make sure the connectors & fuse stay dry.  I also want to figure out how to keep the card slot on the Elite-4 dry. Any suggestions?  Dana is using the same setup I'm getting, so he's given me some good advice also. Never used a fishfinder before, so I'm a little nervous about how it's going to work when I get out on the salt.  :-\ Good luck to both Paul's.  :toothy5:

Paul



4 more bolts & some goop should do it.