Downrigging Question

Has anyone ever mounted an electric one?   I am thinking of trying one as I got tired of trying to keep up with everything on way down and while catching fish.   

i'd imagine the draw would be significant enough to require a big-ass battery.

Check out . I'm not thinking of electrifying the downriggers on my kayaks, but the time that an electric downrigger would be handiest on a kayak is when you get a strike.  It would be pretty nice to be able to hit a button to pull the downrigger weight up while you're playing in a fish, so you wouldn't have to worry about the fish wrapping your fishing line around the downrigger cable.

Looks pretty cool for shallow-ish fishing (50'-80'). Not to knock the guy but for salmon in the sound that sucker looks slooow.

For one of my next completely frivolous purchases, I have been going back and forth between an electric reel and an electric downrigger.  Main use would be to fish deep...like 1,000 ft or more deep.  I have to believe that if we can't travel distance to unfished water on a chart...maybe I can find untapped waters going the extra mile...or quarter mile in depth. 

For one of my next completely frivolous purchases, I have been going back and forth between an electric reel and an electric downrigger.  Main use would be to fish deep...like 1,000 ft or more deep.  I have to believe that if we can't travel distance to unfished water on a chart...maybe I can find untapped waters going the extra mile...or quarter mile in depth.

I have used an electric real for my wife, the small AGM battery we use for power weighs about 8 or ten pounds and lasts all day fishing at 200 ft, the biggest hassle is putting it back in my fourwheeler when we get home. Are you thinking about targeting Shotraker and Sablefish/black cod? I'd like to give the sablefish a go.

Yes sir. Shortraker, rough eye, halibut and sable fish would be the targets. I hear they are still out in the gulf so I think a few trips this year I'm going to suck it up and fish 500 to 800 ft with conventional gear. Really the only reason I want an electric reel is to deal with the cod and other non target fish. Otherwise I'll probably look like Popeye on my right arm. Lol.

with the scotty 1099 only needing 5amps why couldn't a simple 12v8a battery work?  should be able to get at least 100 pulls up on one charge.  getting one set up with a remote like the video or long switch would be even better   and fishing 500+ ft down on a yak is pretty cool.  I need to come and fish Alaska!

I haven't mounted my scotty 1050 yet. The last idea I had was basically the crate idea posted here.

I was thinking of using a cooler with hinged lid and adding straps/cleats  to secure the lid for use, then untie and open it to toss fish in? Either the crate or cooler seems a lot better than drilling holes and trying to disperse the pressure point on the yak if you snag. The downrigger acts as a lever on the point you mount it, a sudden jerk could probably tear plastic I'd imagine?

I haven't mounted my scotty 1050 yet. The last idea I had was basically the crate idea posted here.

I was thinking of using a cooler with hinged lid and adding straps/cleats  to secure the lid for use, then untie and open it to toss fish in? Either the crate or cooler seems a lot better than drilling holes and trying to disperse the pressure point on the yak if you snag. The downrigger acts as a lever on the point you mount it, a sudden jerk could probably tear plastic I'd imagine?

It’s real inconvenient to operate a downrigger which is behind your seat.  It's a lot easier to operate a downrigger if it's mounted next to your thigh.  I described how I mounted a Scotty Depthmaster Downrigger next to my thigh on my Revolution at http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=11954.0 .  AlexB described how he mounted a Depthmaster next to his thigh on an Outback at http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=14977.0  , with an easier method of dealing with the shortened boom.  I described how I mounted a Cannon Lake-Troll downrigger next to my thigh on my 13’ Revolution at http://www.yakfisher.net/smffiles/index.php?PHPSESSID=edt62r71ge7526liti9oim2d73&topic=9918.0 and http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=12575.0.  I find the Cannon Lake-Troll a bit easier to operate than the Depthmaster, and it's way easier to shorten the boom on the Lake-Troll, but the Depthmaster works just fine.

Shortening the boom on a downrigger greatly reduces the leverage of the boom and thus the stress which the downrigger places on the hull of your kayak.  It also makes it easier to position the cable right next to the side of your kayak.  If you snag your weight on the bottom in still water, your kayak will grind to a stop without putting much stress on your kayak.  If you snag your weight on the bottom when trolling in current, things could get exciting pretty fast.  In either case, immediately release your brake, go back in the direction you came from, and try to pull your weight off the obstruction.

+ 1 to don't mount behind you...unless you are flexible.  Of all the odd physical pros and cons I have, one pro that has saved me is I am super flexible and my arms drag on the ground while I walk like a chimp.  So I can fairly easily deploy and even retrieve with it directly behind me.  The base mount is permanent which I wont be doing again since I have now gained confidence in fishing down to about 50ft without a downrigger, my use for a downrigger has been cut more than half. 

So far what I have learned is a downrigger is a VERY effective method for trolling up salmon.  BUT it is twice the work with two lines out and maybe a third more work in terms of drag.  I would not use one unless absolutely necessary.  Yah, all the powerboats may be running them but keep in mind they are running multiple lines with multiple limits to catch.  NOT the same as a kayak typically. 

here's my set up.  DO NOT copy...but it does work amazingly well for me.

Not sure I'm following your guy's thinking. While it is not easier to drop the DR while pedaling when it's mounted behind you, it does pay off once it's down because of the lack of side pull. You fight the drag head on since it's just slowing you down. In the event of a snagged DR ball it will slow you as opposed to rolling the kayak. All of this I say when trolling 100'+ for salmon in Puget Sound where we have a lot of current. At shallower depths and still water I think it's probably quite different.

Not sure I'm following your guy's thinking. While it is not easier to drop the DR while pedaling when it's mounted behind you, it does pay off once it's down because of the lack of side pull. You fight the drag head on since it's just slowing you down. In the event of a snagged DR ball it will slow you as opposed to rolling the kayak. All of this I say when trolling 100'+ for salmon in Puget Sound where we have a lot of current. At shallower depths and still water I think it's probably quite different.

I mounted my downriggers with the cable about an inch from the side of my kayaks to minimize the effect of the downrigger on the tracking  of my kayak.  And I located the cables where it is easy to grab the weight and hook into the downrigger release without changing position.  I fish lakes and don't need to deal with any significant currents, even on Flathead Lake, but I routinely troll right above the bottom for lake trout at depths around 150 feet with a six pound weight.  The downriggers don't noticeably affect the tracking of my Trident or my Revolution, even at those depths.  I've bought an eight pound weight, and am hoping I can troll deeper with it.

In theory, a downrigger which is mounted towards the stern of a kayak will have less impact on the tracking of the kayak than a downrigger which is mounted towards the bow of a kayak.  However, you've got to be able to operate the downrigger, and a downrigger which is mounted next to you is way easier to use than a downrigger which is mounted behind you.  And if the downrigger is mounted with its cable right next to the kayak, it has little effect on the tracking of the kayak.

Not sure I'm following your guy's thinking. While it is not easier to drop the DR while pedaling when it's mounted behind you, it does pay off once it's down because of the lack of side pull. You fight the drag head on since it's just slowing you down. In the event of a snagged DR ball it will slow you as opposed to rolling the kayak. All of this I say when trolling 100'+ for salmon in Puget Sound where we have a lot of current. At shallower depths and still water I think it's probably quite different.

I can drop the ball no problem as its behind me, what is harder is making adjustments on the fly.  But I can deal with it since I can reach it...until I get dehydrated and the act of turning around versus side saddling causes my ribs to cramp up.  OWIE!   I didn't think about snagging up and having the pull point forward or aft of ya.  That's a good point since I was going to troll up some halibut with the DR this year.  I've rarely fished below 80ft with my downrigger so far. 

I called Scotty and an 8amh battery should work for the 1099.  When I get this rigged on my AI I will post pictures.  My experience on my PA14 using 1050 downrigger was that I had a lot of lateral pull after 100ft in puget sound if I wasn't going fast enough before I got to that depth.  The 8lb ball was only a few inches off it the side and why I want to move it to the back which I will only do with an electric.   The only other trick I may try is mounting it off the AMA on a Hakka and get the boon pointed behind me.