Drilling Anxiety--Which Rail Mount for a Revo13?

I don't like "extra" holes in my kayak, you know, when you measure twice, drill once, then decide to move something later. As a result, I'm very slow to rig out a boat, but now it's time.

I have a 2015 Revo 13, and the only holes I've drilled so far are for a Mirage drive leash. Now I have a fishfinder (wired up, but not mounted yet), and I also will add a rod holder up front.

For mounting I have a 12" YakAttack Geartrack, but I'm not sure it's the right solution. I got the Geartrack to keep the rail low profile (upside down cartopping) and for flexibility of mounting different equipment in different positions. Also, it seems to fit the limited and curved gunwale space better than the 16". But, now I'm wondering if a rod holder will clear my feet (I have the pedal arms all the way forward). Of course, track positioning/angle will be slightly different if I move to the 16", or end run the mounting issues with two shorter tracks.

How did you solve the puzzle?

Dave

What kind of rod holder are you using?

What kind of rod holder are you using?

Right now, my hands...or the molded ones behind the seat.

Right now, my hands...

  Those are some of the best!

I'm using the YakAttack Zooka Tube with that articulates. It's mounted with a ram base that adapts onto Gear Trac. I had two 16" pieces on my Revo13, I think any rod holder you end up with is going to have no problem staying out of your way.
Just make sure that you aren't going to drill through the pulleys or rudder lines.

I understand the fear of driller's remorse, but it really isn't a big deal to drill a few small holes. They're easy to seal up.

http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=70145.0.        I prefer Scotty Flush Mounts. 

I'm using a 16inch GT90 gear track on my Rev 13 with a Ram 2007 rod holder. It works well for my rod holder and ff. I have plenty of leg room and room for fighting fish! Only thing I would do differently is make a backing plate for extra support because I don't trust it when trolling in heavy current or when using a diver. Good luck!
Kevin

For the rod holder, you may want to look at the mighty mounts to a geartrac.

Yeah like Ling said, it kind of depends on your rod holder. I don't have a Revo but I have similar gunwale space issues on my Oasis, and the GT90s (with backing plates) have worked really well for me on both my Oasis boats. I think with 12" you'll find a sweet spot to get your rod holder out of the way.

What I did was set my kayak out on the grass, set it up with seat, etc. just like I was going fishing, and then taped (with masking tape) the tracks down and imagined reaching for the rod in different positions and stuff. I got pretty close to perfect the first time.

Ling's also right that you want to be careful but in the end it's not the worst thing in the world if you have to patch a few holes. I hate it too, but if you've taken the time to think it through for a while then go for it - you'll probably be glad you did.

Here's where I have my 12" forward gear tracks on my Revo-13.  I wouldn't change this placement if I had to do it over again.  I use a Scotty rod holder (either the Powerlock or the Orca) on a extender arm.

I have 16" YakAttach GT1.75 gear tracks mounted on the gunwales of my 2014 13' Revolution in front of the pockets.  They are screwed on from the outside with screws.  I couldn't use two of the screw holes because they are positioned over the notches in the inside of the gunwale created by the foot braces, but that leaves 14 screws holding down the gear tracks, which is plenty.  I install my main trolling rod on the left gear track, pointing to the right, and position it behind my left toe when my left pedal is as far back as it goes.  I mount my rod holders as low as possible on the gunwale, but there is still plenty of clearance between my feet and the rod.  I don't like raising my rod holders up on extenders, because the leverage they add increases the stress which the rod holders place on the gear tracks and the hull of my kayak.







Mounting gear tracks on the gunwale of a Revolution from the outside with screws is quick and easy.  If you are considering mounting a narrow gear track such as the GT90s on the gunwale of your Revolution using bolts, nuts, and fender washers, or a backing bar, reach inside the gunwale of your Revolution and feel the area where the nuts and fender washers or the backing bar would go.  The inside of the gunwale is narrow and arched, and it would be difficult to get the gear track positioned so the bolts and washers are on a relatively flat surface.  That's why I used screws from the outside.

Scotty Gearhead bases are fine for mounting things like a fish finder on a gear track, but don't use Gearheads to mount trolling rods on a gear track.  The pull on a trolling rod will constantly twist the gearheads out of position and drive you crazy.  Install your rod holder base on a mighty mount, or make your own mount as described in http://www.yakfisher.net/smffiles/index.php?topic=9917.0 , which is a somewhat cleaned up version of a posting I made earlier on this forum.

I don't like "extra" holes in my kayak, you know, when you measure twice, drill once, then decide to move something later. As a result, I'm very slow to rig out a boat, but now it's time.

I have a 2015 Revo 13, and the only holes I've drilled so far are for a Mirage drive leash. Now I have a fishfinder (wired up, but not mounted yet), and I also will add a rod holder up front.

...

I surely understand your dilemma because I'm at the exact stage of rigging a 2014 Revo 13 that you are: wired but not mounted.  I have two criteria for where to locate the display unit of the fish-finder: in easy arm's reach, and out of the way when reentering.  I'm trying to keep a Lowrance Elite-4 close so I don't have to stretch forward to enter GPS waypoints or to just fiddle around with it, and unfortunately, the Revo 13 gunwales aren't making that easy.

I'm trying to not use tracks because of how it fits when car-topping upside-down on one of the vehicles, and have three potential Scotty flush deck mounts - the 244, a 344, and a 444 - taped here and there on the inner side walls and the gunwales, and cannot pull the trigger to start drilling the big ~1-inch hole all of these mounts require.

I wander through the posts here and on NCKA looking for pictures showing how and where other folks have rigged their Revo's and three weeks into it, I still haven't made up my mind.  You'd think I'm cutting diamonds and not drilling into a plastic boat.

For your question, somewhere in pmmpete's photos - not the ones in this thread - you'll see a short section of gear track mounted to the first molded-in foot rest (closest to the seat) that looks like a very clever use of an otherwise useless spot in the cockpit, and is nearly an ideal location for a mount to hold a fish finder.

I have no suggestions about the rod holder because I haven't even started to open that can of worms.  For a while, my rod holder is going to be my hand and my lap.

Good luck.  When you start the drilling, post some pictures.  I have no doubt I'll still be staring at my Revo trying to decide where to drill.

Before you start bolting stuff to your kayak, it's a good idea to first figure out what you want to accomplish.  Here's what I was trying to accomplish when I set up my kayak:

1.  Fish finder.  I wanted my fish finder to be close enough to my seat so I could see the screen easily, and so I could operate the controls easily.  I have a 13' Trident with a fish finder mounted in the protected pocket in front of the foot wells.  I don't like that location, because it's hard to see the fish finder's screen, and in order to operate its controls I have to slide forward in my seat and reach down in front of my feet. If the controls of your fish finder are difficult to reach, you aren't going to take full advantages of the features of the fish finder.  I prefer to mount my fish finder next to one of my calves.

2. Flexibility. I wanted to be able to change the way I have my kayak set up for fishing as I fish for different species, as I learn good ideas from other kayak anglers, and as I learn more about my preferences.  To accomplish this, most of my fishing gear is mounted on gear tracks, which allows me to easily and quickly change the way my kayak is set up, both from one day to another and during a single day.  On my first fishing kayak I installed various fixed mounts, and often later wished I had done something different.

3. Visibility of my trolling rod.  I do a lot of long-line and downrigger trolling.  I wanted to mount my rod where I could easily monitor its tip for strikes.  So I position my rod holders in front of me with the rod sticking out at right angles to my kayak.

4.  Easy access to my trolling rod.  I wanted to be able to grab my trolling rod easily when I got a strike, without having to lunge forward.  I also wanted to be able to operate my reel when it's in the rod holder, so I could raise and lower my fishing line when downrigger trolling.  This is a lot easier on a pedal kayak than on a paddle kayak, because on a paddle kayak you have to position your rod holder where it won't interfere with your paddle stroke.  On my Revolution, I position my rod holder next to my calf, and can reel in fishing line at the same time that I crank up my downrigger weight.  On my Trident, I had to position my rod holder near my ankle, which is way less convenient. as I have to reach way forward to grab my rod and operate my reel.

5. Minimize interference with climbing back into my kayak.  I wanted to position my fishing gear where it would interfere as little as possible with climbing back into my kayak if I end up in the water.  When my rod holder and my fish finder are positioned next to my calves, there is plenty of room to climb into either side of my kayak.  When I'm downrigger trolling, my downrigger is mounted next to my right thigh, and it would be difficult to climb back into the right side of my kayak, but the downrigger doesn't interfere with climbing back into the left side of my kayak.

5.  Minimize interference with pedaling and paddling. You need to find locations for fishing gear with interfere as little as possible with both pedaling (if you have a pedal kayak) and paddling.  With many rod holders, the butt of the rod sticks out of the back of the rod holder.  One way to keep the butt from interfering with pedaling is to mount your rod holder with the butt of the rod hanging over the side of your kayak, rather than sticking down into the kayak's cockpit.  Another way is to position the rod horizontally and raise the rod holder with an extender (but see the next paragraph).  A third way is to use "rocket launcher" or tube style of rod holders.  I mount my main trolling rod holder on the left gunwale of my Revolution with the rod pointing to the right, so the butt of the rod hangs down over the side of the kayak, and I position the rod holder so the rod is a couple of inches behind my left toe when the left pedal is all of the way back.

6. Avoid extenders. Whenever possible I avoid raising my rod holders on extenders, because they create leverage which increases the stress which the rod holder places on the hull of your kayak. I prefer to mount my rod holders as close to the gunwales of my kayaks as I can.  However, with some kayaks, particularly paddle kayaks, it may be necessary to use extenders.

7. Remove rods from their holders towards the center of your kayak. I prefer to mount my rods so they cross over the center of my kayak, so when I remove the rod from its holder I pull it towards the center of my kayak.  If you mount a rod holder with the rod pointing away from the kayak, when you remove the rod from its holder you may have to reach out away from the side of your kayak, which tends to unbalance it.  This isn't a problem with clamshell rod holders like the Folbe Advantage and the Scotty Orca, which both release straight up.

I went with the gt175 tracks in the same location as pmmpete. I bought a rocket launcher and gear head for light applications and a Scotty mount/power lock rod holder for trolling and heavier applications. 

The power lock rod holder is facing the other way when I am fishing with my rod going over the boat...

Thanks for all the great replies! PMMPete, the list of considerations is a good one, of course the challenge is figuring out the geometry/layout that meets the criteria for each of us, or is flexible enough to adapt to the day's priorities (thus Geartrac...) Beachmaster, that's a very helpful image.

For the Geartrac, I currently have the GT175 12" (not yet installed) as I figured the wider base (vs. GT90) would reduce localized stress/twist on the hull from a trolling rod. Others have mentioned the downside--it's a bit wider than the flat section of the gunwale and with the 12" or 16" versions not all screw holds can be used.

I'll likely use a Zooka tube for a rod holder due to the variety of rods I'll use. I've used a Scotty flush mount before, and really like that solution, and for most of what I do, Rocket Launcer styles would work well.

In Beachmaster's photo, the rod holders are positioned at the back of the rails, and while that may just be for the photo it seems like that's a good spot to prevent interference with thighs while pedaling and also for a FF. Is the forward/bow section of the track useful for rod holders, or do feet get in the way (mine are size 13, so they get in the way often!)