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Topic: Attention Propel Owners!!! Inspect your drive uint!!!  (Read 6761 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

AKFISHRIPPER

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Slaying fish and taking names
  • AlaskaKayakAnglers/ A.K.A
  • Location: Eagle River
  • Date Registered: Sep 2011
  • Posts: 320
So I dug out my Slayer last night and decided to inspect my propel drive before the season.  When I took out the propeller gear box I noticed some white colored grease so I took the whole thing apart and I'm glad I did, all the gears had nasty brownish black grease on them with some evidence of water intrusion.  There wasn't any actual water drops in the drive but some moisture was definitely present.  I highly recommend everyone takes their drive apart and rebuild it before you go out this year, it took me about an hour to completely rebuild it and re-lube.   If you're not confident mechanically or just don't have the time I can rebuild it for you for a case of beer or equivalent. Also we may want to look into a group order of a few sets of gears because there was some wear present and I see the gears maybe lasting 2-4 seasons before failing.

I didn't really have time to take pics of the rebuild but if I end up rebuilding someone elses I will take pics of the affected areas and do a write up on the process.


AKFISHRIPPER

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Slaying fish and taking names
  • AlaskaKayakAnglers/ A.K.A
  • Location: Eagle River
  • Date Registered: Sep 2011
  • Posts: 320
Just priced replacement parts and they are spendy!!!


AKFishOn

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Location: Kodiak, Alaska
  • Date Registered: Dec 2015
  • Posts: 271
I bought mine used, a 2014 model. I do not have the spanner wrench to open the top housing, but was able to wedge a hex wrench into the slot on the bottom unit and open it up. I noticed red bearing grease in it. I cleaned out as much as I could and re-lubed with the Native recommended grease. I also squirted a bunch in the top gear housing via the lube port. Sure would like to open it all the way to see if all is well.

After lube, the system seems pretty smooth with a little gear noise, but I assume that's to be expected. Well lube bicycle gears make a little noise as well.

Thanks for the reminder, a little maintenance goes a long way.
"If your hands ain't bleeding, you ain't fishing hard enough!"


AKFISHRIPPER

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Slaying fish and taking names
  • AlaskaKayakAnglers/ A.K.A
  • Location: Eagle River
  • Date Registered: Sep 2011
  • Posts: 320
I bought mine used, a 2014 model. I do not have the spanner wrench to open the top housing, but was able to wedge a hex wrench into the slot on the bottom unit and open it up. I noticed red bearing grease in it. I cleaned out as much as I could and re-lubed with the Native recommended grease. I also squirted a bunch in the top gear housing via the lube port. Sure would like to open it all the way to see if all is well.

After lube, the system seems pretty smooth with a little gear noise, but I assume that's to be expected. Well lube bicycle gears make a little noise as well.

Thanks for the reminder, a little maintenance goes a long way.

Weird cause mine had a white lithium style grease.  As for lubing the top of the drive, doing it though the access hole isn't enough. I initially squirt a ton in there, ran it through for a while, took it apart, and barely any of the lube actually made it to the gears. That was another reason I just rebuilt the whole thing.


AKFishOn

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Location: Kodiak, Alaska
  • Date Registered: Dec 2015
  • Posts: 271
I you're willing, maybe I could borrow your spanner wrench when we meet up Friday in Homer before the tourney? I'll pop the cover off and lube the crap out of the gears.
"If your hands ain't bleeding, you ain't fishing hard enough!"


AKFISHRIPPER

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Slaying fish and taking names
  • AlaskaKayakAnglers/ A.K.A
  • Location: Eagle River
  • Date Registered: Sep 2011
  • Posts: 320
I you're willing, maybe I could borrow your spanner wrench when we meet up Friday in Homer before the tourney? I'll pop the cover off and lube the crap out of the gears.

I used a brass drift and a rubber mallet to break it loose, didn't take much effort.


AKFishOn

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Location: Kodiak, Alaska
  • Date Registered: Dec 2015
  • Posts: 271
Well shoot, that makes it easier. Did you pull the crank arms, or was there enough space to work with without doing so?
"If your hands ain't bleeding, you ain't fishing hard enough!"


Mojo Jojo

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Suffers from Yakfishiolus Catchyitis
  • Location: Tillamook, Oregon
  • Date Registered: May 2014
  • Posts: 6071
If you want shorter crank arm get on the interweb and get a pair for a unicycle. That's what I did on the wife's boat and as a short guy I love it will see if she does this summer.



Shannon
2013 Jackson Big Tuna "Aircraft Carrier"
2011 Native Mariner Propel "My pickup truck"
2015 Native Slayer Propel "TLW's ride"
20?? Cobra Fish-N-Dive “10yo grandson’s”
20?? Emotion Sparky “5 yr old granddaughter’s”


AKFISHRIPPER

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Slaying fish and taking names
  • AlaskaKayakAnglers/ A.K.A
  • Location: Eagle River
  • Date Registered: Sep 2011
  • Posts: 320
Well shoot, that makes it easier. Did you pull the crank arms, or was there enough space to work with without doing so?

They were seized on there but I was able to get them off eventually. Definitely recommend putting some antiseize on the square shafts before reinstalling them. 


AKFishOn

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Location: Kodiak, Alaska
  • Date Registered: Dec 2015
  • Posts: 271
So I dug out my Slayer last night and decided to inspect my propel drive before the season.  When I took out the propeller gear box I noticed some white colored grease so I took the whole thing apart and I'm glad I did, all the gears had nasty brownish black grease on them with some evidence of water intrusion.  There wasn't any actual water drops in the drive but some moisture was definitely present.  I highly recommend everyone takes their drive apart and rebuild it before you go out this year, it took me about an hour to completely rebuild it and re-lube.   If you're not confident mechanically or just don't have the time I can rebuild it for you for a case of beer or equivalent. Also we may want to look into a group order of a few sets of gears because there was some wear present and I see the gears maybe lasting 2-4 seasons before failing.

I didn't really have time to take pics of the rebuild but if I end up rebuilding someone elses I will take pics of the affected areas and do a write up on the process.

I just ordered the tools to remove the upper assembly caps and lower cartridge as well as pull the crank arms. I also ordered a rudder cable replacement kit and a spare prop. I plan to always have maintenance and spare parts on hand and will make them available to any Propel folk on the forum should the need arise.
"If your hands ain't bleeding, you ain't fishing hard enough!"


AKFISHRIPPER

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Slaying fish and taking names
  • AlaskaKayakAnglers/ A.K.A
  • Location: Eagle River
  • Date Registered: Sep 2011
  • Posts: 320
If you want shorter crank arm get on the interweb and get a pair for a unicycle. That's what I did on the wife's boat and as a short guy I love it will see if she does this summer.

I was interested in those but I do a lot of slow trolling. I would think they would wear you out quick, I wanna try before I buy!


Mojo Jojo

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Suffers from Yakfishiolus Catchyitis
  • Location: Tillamook, Oregon
  • Date Registered: May 2014
  • Posts: 6071
There cheap enough in the lower states. Not really much more then the stock in my opinion as far as work out. It's still relatively easy to cavitate with the shorter arms but it's soooo much nicer on the hip and knees not having to hi chest the back pedal.



Shannon
2013 Jackson Big Tuna "Aircraft Carrier"
2011 Native Mariner Propel "My pickup truck"
2015 Native Slayer Propel "TLW's ride"
20?? Cobra Fish-N-Dive “10yo grandson’s”
20?? Emotion Sparky “5 yr old granddaughter’s”


AKFISHRIPPER

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Slaying fish and taking names
  • AlaskaKayakAnglers/ A.K.A
  • Location: Eagle River
  • Date Registered: Sep 2011
  • Posts: 320
There cheap enough in the lower states. Not really much more then the stock in my opinion as far as work out. It's still relatively easy to cavitate with the shorter arms but it's soooo much nicer on the hip and knees not having to hi chest the back pedal.

Would you be able to do me a favor and measure the distance from the center of the peddle hole to the mounting hole.  I'm just going to drill new peddle holes, try it out, and if I like it I will trim off the excess.
I have access to a drill press and a mill so it will be easy. If I don't like it I can always put them back in the stock location


Mojo Jojo

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Suffers from Yakfishiolus Catchyitis
  • Location: Tillamook, Oregon
  • Date Registered: May 2014
  • Posts: 6071
Will do tomorrow as I'm not home right now and it will be a pita in the dark and rain.



Shannon
2013 Jackson Big Tuna "Aircraft Carrier"
2011 Native Mariner Propel "My pickup truck"
2015 Native Slayer Propel "TLW's ride"
20?? Cobra Fish-N-Dive “10yo grandson’s”
20?? Emotion Sparky “5 yr old granddaughter’s”


AKFISHRIPPER

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Slaying fish and taking names
  • AlaskaKayakAnglers/ A.K.A
  • Location: Eagle River
  • Date Registered: Sep 2011
  • Posts: 320
Will do tomorrow as I'm not home right now and it will be a pita in the dark and rain.

Sounds good