Slip slide and away

OK - after being out a few times with gear, I notice it can be almost impossible to retrieve stuff that slides way back in the hull.  Even with my T13 in the garage I still had trouble fishing my gloves out.  I can see where some things can be leashed, but everything?  Where to tie all the leashes off?

What other things are there to do for hull storage for keeping things organized and recoverable on or off the water?

I know I can eventually figure this out but this what NWKA is for, right?

Lots of people put a milk crate right behind their seat.  That keeps stuff from sliding way back  :-)

I don't think that you're the 1st to ask this question.  Some have made tubs that fit in their rod pod.  Others have used netting.  As for me, when I put things small enough to hide from me in the hull, I put them in a drybag.

An idea I have toyed with but not tried is super-double-stick weather-proof tape used to stick velcro onto the interior side of the yak to hold little stuff.  I did experiment with such a system in the center of the hull to keep the bilge pump in place but eventually the salt water soaked velcro came off the double stick tape.

I have a partially inflated beach ball jammed behind the seat that acts as a barrier to sliding gear.  When I launch from the beach I have tennis shoes and after action clothing in a dry bag, stuffed through the front hatch and under the sonar pod.  This prevents gear from sliding too far forward.  I have stopped using the inside of the boat to hold rods so the loss of available length is not an issue for me.  

Somewhere, (here?), I have heard of glueing pool noodles spaced cross-wise to the bottom of the hull.  These would prevent smaller stuff from sliding around and yet still allow rod storage.  Pick your spacing.  Of course if you huli stuff could still end up anywhere.

One more idea I have thought of but not tried is tensioned bungees or looped lines.  Wrap separate bungees around forward and rearward seat scuppers, then use the other ends of the two bungees to hold whatever in place under tension.  Same effect could be attained with a length of line run between the scuppers.  The line could have loops tied at intervals, and the loops used to hook bungees, carabiners, velcro loops, to gear.  Run such a line on both sides and gear could be lashed across. 

There's a couple of nylon line lashing points located right near the rim of each hatch on my Tarpon. I tie stuff to these to keep them from hiding.
My bilge pump is tied in with a bow, for quick release.
A lot of my stuff is in a dry bag or containers that haven't slid away from my reach yet.
On my first go-out, I placed a folded towel on the bottom below my center hatch, and that was good to prevent anything resting on top of it from sliding. I also have the butt end of my stored rods resting on this, and it has kept them from rolling and sliding around.(Mind you, I am not going thru the surf, just paddling in relatively benign conditions).

WR uses a trolly type system inside his T15. he attaches a line around his front and back scupper holes inside and then attatches his leashes to it. so all hes got to do is pull on the line to get what hes looking for. i am looking to do that.

In my T-13 I do things differently depending on what kind of water I will be on.  Obviously punching through the surf will be the most dramatic with the odds of junk sliding around more. 

So for playing in the ocean, I have my rods (2) in the rod pod, with the tips at the stern.  The reels end up just in front of the seat, and with my fat butt planted, it compresses the plastic enough that the reels can't go any further rearward.  Then I have a dry bag with my wallet, sunblock, 1st Aid kit, Scooby Snacks, and other small items that I don't want soaked.  All my tackle is in zippered bags that contain smaller containers, and these are stored in front of my dry bag, and slightly under the sonar shield area. My fish bonker hangs out there as well. The 'ducer mount keeps everything from sliding to far forward.  Once I am out in the blue and have my rods deployed in the appropriate holders behind me, I stuff the dry bag just under my seat enough to make a wedge so nothing else will slide out of sight. 

Here's the trick....
All my zippered bags will fit through my 6" hatch that is mounted in the center of my rod pod lid.  There is a length of 3/16" bungee that ties the hatch lid to the rod pod lid.  The zippered bags, fish bonker, other tools like bilge pump, and gaff get connected to this bungee cord during launches. The fish bonker, gaff and pump will be stowed topside once I'm fishing.

As for lakes and rivers, I just keep the rods topside in my Yakintup inspired rear rod storage rack.  Dry bag goes in the same spot under the seat as when I am in the ocean.  I have even more small zippered bags for various lures, terminal tackle, bait, and stuff.  Got all these bags at Goodwill for $2 or less each. 

Once I am fishing (regardless of water body), I can leave the rod pod lid securely latched down, and only need to open the 6" round hatch to get whatever gear I need.

My pliers and lip grip are on lengths of bungee attached to either side of my seat straps, and stored alongside the seat itself.  Both float, and don't rust so leaving them in the water won't hurt either.

The obvious thing with kayak fishing, gear and whatnot is that it is an ever evolving process that gets refined as you go.  At least with me it does. 

I cut a hole for day hatch between my legs similar to what the WS Tarpon has, and bolted and glued a day hatch rim in. On the underside of the hatch I tied off several lines at the end of the bolt & nut, with scotty clips at the end, and clip in dry bags. All I have to do is pull the line to retrieve any sliding gear.

Since you have a Trident, Why not a Plano box behind the seat? I'm not a huge fan of the setup from OK, but it is slowly growing on me. I've found myself stashing "the lil stuff" in the box.  First aid kit, gloves, lures/tackle i'm too lazy to put back in the trays, etc.  I also don't feel that the bungee is good enough for a rockin surf launch/return (not to mention freaking cumbersome), and will be hard mounting mine to the kayak.

Just a reminder:  "Bungee" need not refer to a thick, hook-ended Home Depot bungee.  There is bungee material available from a number of sources down to 1mm diameter. 

just one more reason SOT's need bulkheads.

Nothing: Not sure who you're replying to. I use accessory cord rather than bungee, as bungee is apt to break easier.

NANOOK, I was replying to the OP.  When I get around to it, I'll be bolting clips onto my Plano box that'll hook right into where OK ties their bungee.

I do agree, SOTs need bulkheads.  I know the Dorado has one, but don't know of another SOT that does. Of course, there aren't that many 'glassed SOTs out there either.  I assume the rotomolding process makes that difficult. 

Back to the original post:
Another thing that would be helpful is some Rubbermade shelf liner in the hull. Lil Goop to hold in place and that will help keep things in place through normal situations.

 On my Trident 15.7 i drilled holes in the inside lip of rod pod. Stick a 3/16 line through the hole with a knot on the inside to keep it.. Also same treatment for plastic tackle boxes, hole with knot inside, clip on other end, goop it if need to be water tite.  With my Revo now i put a gunny sack in the 8" hatch flay , put stuff on top of it. Works if you don't do  a 360 ..
   This is what i ended up with , made a fish tank, img...

I bought about a dozen of these coiled lanyards at the dollar store for .99 cents each. I just modified them for gear leashes. I put stainless steel split rings from Lowe's on the ends and removed that piece of plastic and that cheap tin clip, and replaced them with aluminum mini carabiners from the dollar store. I covered the hog rings with shrink tubing. Ended up costing me about $3.25 each. You could use coiled telephone cord too.



I drilled a hole on the inside lip of the Rod Pod, and zip-tied a larger carabiner there, and I looped any gear leash inside the Rod Pod to that.

But I don't have things slide under the seat because I wedged a bunch of pool noodles back there so nothing would got lost. (I had the same frustration in the beginning) Stuff either had to be tethered or you had to go to shore and tip the stern in the air to get anything out. It is part of the reason I went all bonsai on modifying my T15. Directly under my seat are 9 large pool noodles wedged in there. I had to take the last couple pieces, put them in my Seal-a-meal, suck all the air out, install the pool noodle, and then cut the plastic bag away so they could re-expand. It makes a tight fit, and the ends of my rods can fit in the donut-holes of the pool noodles and keep most of the reels off the bottom (I put the rods in tip toward the bow.)

I made a shelf from a plastic bread rack tray ( the kind they deliver bread to your store with, kinda like milkcrates only the material isn't as thick) , that I cut to fit, then heated the centerline of the rack with a heatgun to bend it so as to fit inside the hull, the flattened it back out to cool and lie flat again. I put one center support leg underneath with a lag bolt in a 2"x2"x2". The back end fits up pretty snug to the Sonar Shield and footwells, my battery fits in the bag hanging front the bolts on the bow handles and forces the shelf to the back. My rods fit underneath without contacting anything on the shelf, and stuff on the shelf stays out of the bilge and off my rods so nothing gets tangled.
If I ever need to access that area, I'm just going to cut it (the shelf) out and make a new one. It adds almost no weight, but makes the front hatch function much better.
Get a couple of the bread rack shelves, you need to cut one lengthwise down the center to practice fitting it in, then make the other side, then trace it onto another shelf to cutout without the centerline cut.

 
RevoRoy---I really like your fishbox idea!

Sounds like you have quite the project there.
Pics would do us wonders Troutnut!      

Those red tethers you found at the dollar store, look like tethers for engine kill switches, (ATV, jetski, boats, etc....).

Cool find!