Dragging anchor - AGAIN

Had all kinds of fun in the wind Wednesday dragging my 3lb cast iron plate around in the canal.  This is getting old real fast.  What would you guys recommend as an upgrade.  I had 2 ft. of chain attached to the anchor as well.

Also, I think it was demonick that has a thread on a diy anchor trolley.  I may try that for my trident 13, but are there any recommendations as far as kits?  While not adverse to DIY, I am seriously in debt with the WAF account and will be tiling, painting, chopping, socializing (yuk!).

Note for other newbies: Don't go out in windy conditions with a poorly hacked together anchor system. It does not make for an enjoyable trip.

Which style of anchor are you currently using? 

I know I had a he'll of a time yesterday with my 3.5# folding anchor yesterday too. Starting to like the idea of using a heavier mushroom or pyramid.
Flows are up. 

I know I had a he'll of a time yesterday with my 3.5# folding anchor yesterday too. Starting to like the idea of using a heavier mushroom or pyramid.
Flows are up. 

Some people use those smaller folding anchors and add a couple balls of lead to the end.  Myself, I just use the 5# model or even a 7 pound model.  And I don't use chain.  Never had a problem.  However, you must make sure you have enough scope to the line of they just wont grab.

-Allen

Also, I think it was demonick that has a thread on a diy anchor trolley. 

I stole the anchor system from bsteves.  Here is his write up.  I don't remember where I stole the Harken cleats idea.

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/page,26.html

A good rule of thumb for anchor line scope is about twice the line as the depth.  This gives you a 30 degree scope.  Of course it varies with current and wind. 

A 5# grapple anchor with 5' of chain will hold you in any condition enough to fish in.

Z

I'm currently using a 8lb. mushroom and it seems to be working well. I'm thinking about rigging it to have some kind of break away on it, but it's worked well in the couple of times I've used it so far on the Willy.

This thing will work anywhere except 12 in round stuff,, cool video


  http://www.navstore.com/bulwagga.aspx

try pulling THAT up from a yak!

I broke my zip-tie breakaway when I moved the first time. I didn't anchor up in a good position, so after at least giving it a try, it was time to move.  Since the ziptie broke, and I failed to have a backup, I switched to monofilament. I broke and retied 3 times.  The last time i think it broke early on and then I snagged up the grapple.

Time for a new anchor for me. Curious to see where suggestions go from here.

Also, anyone use Dacron for line? While it might end up being too tough to handle, it would make a great kayak anchor rope

Scope and the thinnest anchor line you can handle.

thinnest?      i been using 1/4 hollow core poly propelyne?! should  i be using 50lb dacron instead?

Scope and the thinnest anchor line you can handle.

 

I'm going to start going with the thin white and pink line they sell at most hardware stores. I forget what type of material it is, but it is some sort of synthetic. I have been using a mix of that type of line and 1/4" yellow hollow core poly stuff you mentioned WR, depending on how deep I am anchoring(I have my anchor line in 40' shots and add a shot as required). I think if one were to use dacron, it should be something like 100 lb. test or greater simply because of the thickness of it might make it easier to handle than the lighter lb. test. Regardless of the lb. test of dacron being used, it is relatively pretty thin stuff and I certainly wouldn't want to be in a situation where I am forced to pull as hard as I can to snap a break-away rig on my anchor and I have to pull on very thin line to do that. You had best carry a good pair of gloves if that's the case! (which would probably still work I guess)

The Willamette has several sections where a solid form or "hook style" anchor is going to get snagged a lot,  period (above the old bridge in OC, and from Ceder Oak ramp to Milwaukee).  Most of these areas are Basalt flow bottom and are craggy anchor stealer's.  Out of the PB I use big lengths of "Boom Chain" the large link chain (6-8 inch links) used to connect log rafts together,a 6 ft section weighs about 50-60 ish lbs.  They work like a slinky does steelhead fishing and rarely if ever get snagged in the rocks.  I just need to make a few "kayak" sized ones as they would solve most of the snaggy anchor problems in that stretch of the river. They don't hold for squat on small rock/cobble or smooth bottom but in craggy snaggy stuff they can't be beat.

Which style of anchor are you currently using? 

Just a barbell plate.  I know it's easy to find something better - just want to be sure I get it right.

The Willamette has several sections where a solid form or "hook style" anchor is going to get snagged a lot,  period (above the old bridge in OC, and from Ceder Oak ramp to Milwaukee).  Most of these areas are Basalt flow bottom and are craggy anchor stealer's.  Out of the PB I use big lengths of "Boom Chain" the large link chain (6-8 inch links) used to connect log rafts together,a 6 ft section weighs about 50-60 ish lbs.  They work like a slinky does steelhead fishing and rarely if ever get snagged in the rocks.  I just need to make a few "kayak" sized ones as they would solve most of the snaggy anchor problems in that stretch of the river. They don't hold for squat on small rock/cobble or smooth bottom but in craggy snaggy stuff they can't be beat.

That's a great idea for that area. I remember almost getting snagged 3 times and Kykfshr losing his the last time I was there.

Z