Cuda 350

Hey guys,

You got me going on the Cuda 350...now I need to rig 'er up.

What mount do people like? I've got long legs, so I use almost all the available space in my Tarpon 140...mount it just past my feet and elevated a bit?

Thanks,
John

Yo, check hydrospider's threads over on the "Drillin' & Cuttin" sub-forum. The ones about his T-14 and T-16. He included some good photos of below-deck wiring management, too.

I'm going to be mounting mine on a slide-track mounting plate on my T-140, when I get one. I might have to pony up for the Cuda 350. I might try the swingdown arm transducer mount that Harmony makes.

I was out in the garage last night trying to figure out a temporary transducer mount on my T-140 for my old portable Piranha, so I could use it in the meantime. I see where I can just run the transducer cable to the stern and then concoct a custom transducer bracket for the existing rudder mounting area, since it has tapped inserts and screws installed already for a rudder assembly. I don't use a rudder, so these are going to waste!

The portable unit would just sit on top of the forward hatch, bungeed down and leashed.

Edit, 2/14: This will have to do until I get a combo sonar/gps unit, unless I get off my okole and actually go get the right stuff. Maybe I'll just order it and get it delivered.
 I'm going to see if I can fab up the temporary stern transducer mount today, since I stretched an achilles' tendon and am not doing much walking. I can do lake fishing from my U-12, though!

FF mount: Scotty Deck mount with RAM mounting hardware:
http://www.demonick.com/kayak/FF.GPS/mount.html

Thanks guys.

Another question. How portable are the rigging options? What if I want to throw in my canoe for a weekend of fishing? How difficult is that? Would I need to buy some type of base to hold the unit (like the portable models)?

Overall, I'd prefer to rig up the Cuda like you guys have demonstrated rather than exchange it for a portable model (assuming that doesn't work well in a kayak)...but what kind of portability do you have once customized for your kayak?

Thanks,
John

You could easily move the head unit between kayak and canoe, but you would need to wire a separate transducer and power supply if you rig it up like most of the  examples show.  At some point you have to have a hole going through your yak for the power/transducer wires to connect from the inside of the hull to the outside where your head unit is.  This hole is usually fitted with a water-tight seal or caulked to keep water out.

Thanks...so looks like the Scotty deck mount and Ram component are the way to go? Does Scotty not make both pieces? Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

I don't see why you would use the Scotty mount and then the RAM conversion...

just use the RAM mount base to begin with!  It make sense if you already have the Scotty mount there, but if you're starting fresh, just get the RAM setup.

Thanks...so looks like the Scotty deck mount and Ram component are the way to go? Does Scotty not make both pieces? Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

I wasn't able to find a Scotty mount that fit the base of my Cuda so I simply mounted a short Scotty extender to a piece of cutting board that was drilled and cut to fit the Cuda base.  Works like a charm!
If I remember, when I get home I'll take a picture and post it.

-Spot-

Thanks. I've been doing some reading on all the threads that already exist.

For my Cuda, I still need to pick up a battery. 5ah or 7ah?

Also, based in the through hull method of rigging, I should also be picking up...

- Garden pad foam
- A waterproof battery box
- Trailer light attachment
- Silicone spray for making sure water does not leak out of foam entrapment where you place the transducer
- What about where the wiring comes out of the batter box? Something recommended for sealing that up?
- Anything else?
- I think I'll try a RAM mount for the unit.

Thanks!
John

You don't need silicone spray to seal the foam, just use your finger and coat the inside of the foam with the same stuff you use to attach it to the hull. 

Thanks - everything else on the list look right?

What stuff do I need for attaching the transducer to the hull? Is this the glue technique, meaning I can't easily remove the transducer?

Thanks - everything else on the list look right?

What stuff do I need for attaching the transducer to the hull? Is this the glue technique, meaning I can't easily remove the transducer?

I just want through the process, but just glued the ducer strait to the bottom of the hull. I PM'ed bsteves for his recommendations as I wanted to hurry. He recommended the brand Goop(marine or household), but fishermans marine only had the household. The stuff worked like a charm. Small amount is all you really need. I think bsteves mentioned around the size of a quarter is all it really takes. Now here's the kicker. I screwed up my first attempt as I glued down late at evening. Because I installed the ducer so late and anchored it down with some electrical tape. It actually moved quite a bit during the night and was off center. When I woke up the check it out it was dried. I reached in to see if I could pop it off. Yes, with a little musscle, it popped off. I had so sand all the extra goop from the ducer and hull and start over. The second attempt was perfect... Tight lines!

Thanks - everything else on the list look right?

What stuff do I need for attaching the transducer to the hull? Is this the glue technique, meaning I can't easily remove the transducer?

I just want through the process, but just glued the ducer strait to the bottom of the hull. I PM'ed bsteves for his recommendations as I wanted to hurry. He recommended the brand Goop(marine or household), but fishermans marine only had the household. The stuff worked like a charm. Small amount is all you really need. I think bsteves mentioned around the size of a quarter is all it really takes. Now here's the kicker. I screwed up my first attempt as I glued down late at evening. Because I installed the ducer so late and anchored it down with some electrical tape. It actually moved quite a bit during the night and was off center. When I woke up the check it out it was dried. I reached in to see if I could pop it off. Yes, with a little musscle, it popped off. I had so sand all the extra goop from the ducer and hull and start over. The second attempt was perfect... Tight lines!

Don't ask me how I know but be careful with sanding the transducer.  I had an old one I was trying to rework and use as a backup on a second yak.  It seems the tiny scratches I left while sanding "caught/held" air (I guess?)  when I pressed the transducer down into the goop and I couldn't get a clean reading on the screen.  Even with fine grit wet paper it didn't improve.   I tossed it and ordered a fresh one and no problems?  Your mileage my vary..   I now only use the pool noodle/water method

PP's right. Sanding your trans is a great way to get unreliable readings. Getting a section of pool noodle or your favorite foam, cutting out the shape of your trans a little smaller than it is and gooping that down is a lot easier. Wasting .00003 cents on a chunk of foam doesn't hurt as bad. After the goop has dried make sure there's no excess in the area where your trans will go. Then fill that space w/ water, squish it in there until water's gurgling out and you're done.

Z  

PP's right. Sanding your trans is a great way to get unreliable readings. Getting a section of pool noodle or your favorite foam, cutting out the shape of your trans a little smaller than it is and gooping that down is a lot easier. Wasting .00003 cents on a chunk of foam doesn't hurt as bad. After the goop has dried make sure there's no excess in the area where your trans will go. Then fill that space w/ water, squish it in there until water's gurgling out and you're done.

Z  

I was worried about this when I installed mine. I have a thin layer of Goop covering the plastic but I don't seem to have any resolution problems. However, you never really know what you don't see!!!