Couple questions on rigging the FF

Hi Guys,

I've been slowly getting my yak rigged up for fishing. Not sure if this is the right spot, but you guys always give great advice.

I'm working on rigging up a Cuda 350 FF, and remember some of the old threads about this.

Couple questions. On the pool noodle/closed-cell foam technique, do you actually have a layer of foam between the bottom of the transducer and the floor of the kayak, thus your transducer shoots through the noodle/foam? Or do you want the transducer flush to the kayak floor, with the foam only around the sides of the transducer? Curious, because the only pool noodles I've seen have a hole running through the entire noodle...at that point, I am not sure how well it would retain water once secured to the floor of the kayak.

Also, I've seen mention of the marine trailer light accessory...what's the purpose of this part? Is it needed? Seems like I could just run with all the wiring included and be ok...what I am missing?

As far as fishing, mostly been out on Lake Washington lately...some bass and perch here and there. Nothing great, but nice to catch something after usually getting blanked chasing steelhead.

Thanks...

The purpose of the wire harness is to make it easy to plug in your battery.  This makes it easy to remove for transport and charging.

The foam goes AROUND the transducer.  It's there to hold your transducer and some water.  There are some pictures available in the "drilling and cutting" section of the website.

closed cell foam forms like a pool for water in the shape of the transducer, no foam under the trans. just water. Just a small amount of water is needed to make sure there is no air between the trans. and the hull.

the pool noodle method is just to wedge the trans between the deck and the hull with no water, "fishesfromtupperware" uses this method, or at least did the last time i heard and it seems to work fine from his reports.

And like Lee said the wire harness is just for the plug, you can use any kind of two wire plug.

In the closed cell foam method there should be no foam between the transducer and the hull. You want to cut out a hole the shape of your transducer, but small enough to be a tight fit. After the goop has set, fill the foam cut out with water and fit your transducer into the cut. Water should squirt out around your transducer (but not where the foam meets your hull) as you push it in. There should be no air underneath the transducer.



The cables that come with your FF is all you need to make it work, but the trailer plugs help clean up the appearance and make it water tight. You can go this route too

http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/servlet/the-713/Wire-Seal/Detail

The better option still is not to drill holes for your cables at all. If there is a hatch close by you can just run your wires under your hatch. This isn't always an option, but if it is it will keep you from punching more holes in your boat.

Here is a link to another thread about it:

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,4506.0.html


I recommend picking up a gardening knee pad.  The foam on those is a little denser and easier to work with. 

Thanks...where can you pick up the trailer plugs?

Any boat/marine store should have what you need.

hey guys

  this thread couldnt have come at a better time. i am the guy that got jammers t13 he won at the orc. i need to set it up. i have read a few different threads on mounting the transducer but still have a couple questions.

1. will a stock transducer shoot thru the hull or is that a special order item.

2. the t13 has a transducer scupper. how far does a transducer hang below the hull?

3. other than having to drill for the scupper mount. which has the advantage?
 

 

The answer to question #1 is yes, the transducer that comes with a FF will shoot through the hull.  No special transducer required.

I don't know anything about 2 or 3 though   

The answer to question #1 is yes, the transducer that comes with a FF will shoot through the hull.  No special transducer required.

I don't know anything about 2 or 3 though   

Ditto. except i'm sure the 'ducer doesn't stick down much at all.

excellent,    i cant wrap my brain around putting holes in the bottom of my new boat.  thanks for the help

i cant wrap my brain around putting holes in the bottom of my new boat.

No need to put any holes in your kayak. I have the cheapest Eagle fishfinder going and use a piece of plastic tubing(instead of foam) and secure the transducer to the hull with Lexel. I go through pretty good sized surf, up and down rapids and load and unload my kayak without thinking twice, never had any problems. I get perfect readings and water temps. The transducer has been stuck there now for a few years through hot summer sun and springtime snow.
Lots of good ways to do it, here's what I did: http://www.watermanatwork.com/KayakFishing/KayakRigging/Fishfinder/Fishfinder.html

hey guys

  this thread couldnt have come at a better time. i am the guy that got jammers t13 he won at the orc. i need to set it up. i have read a few different threads on mounting the transducer but still have a couple questions.



2. the t13 has a transducer scupper. how far does a transducer hang below the hull?

about 3/4 inch if you go to the scupper hole transducer. bear in mind, Humminbird does have an exchange program for transducers, but only if it's never been used or installed. btw, transducers are not cheap.

3. other than having to drill for the scupper mount. which has the advantage?

dead nuts simple and long life goes to the inside the hull installation. the only drilling you are going to need to do, is for the head mount screws in the sonar shield, and the cable pass thru in the same area. save yourself time and grief by going this way rather than blocking a scupper hole , and putting more holes than you need to into your nice new boat.
 

 

hey guys

  this thread couldnt have come at a better time. i am the guy that got jammers t13 he won at the orc. i need to set it up. i have read a few different threads on mounting the transducer but still have a couple questions.

1. will a stock transducer shoot thru the hull or is that a special order item.

2. the t13 has a transducer scupper. how far does a transducer hang below the hull?

3. other than having to drill for the scupper mount. which has the advantage?

If you don't need to have your sonar unit removable, I recommend using a marine wire plug to run your chords through.  It makes for a clean appearance and you don't have to worry about any water seepage through your hatches. Just my $0.02 though.  Most marine stores will have the plugs you need.  

Let's not also forget the other option you have if you decide to mount your transducer to the inside of the hull, gluing it down with marine goop, similar to what ronbo did.  That's what I do and I really like it.  It's pretty easy, just roll the transducer in the blob of goop, move it into position, tape it down with duct tape and let it sit overnight.  You never have to mess with your transducer again unless maybe it comes off in 5 years or so.  Just one less thing you have to do when getting on the water.

thanks for all the intel. gotta go drops some bones on a ff