Shrimping out of a kayak-problems

Okay, the season opener is Friday and I am not anywhere near ready.  I guess the season runs all year long and the weather may be bad any way right? 

So here are my solutions to the line to line and line to buoy connections with the downrigger.

Downrigger connection Soultion #1

First I am sucking it up and buying the 360 degree swivel mount.  No way around it...even with outriggers.  So the downrigger has to swivel!

So here's my first proposed solution,  I am going to tie a long bimini twist knot at the end of each leader. That way it can stay clipped in between the drum and the pulley, but the loop is long enough that it clears the last guide.

I can clip the buoy on before I unclip the mainline to make sure that I don't lose it...which is always a possibility when you are holding on to spectra line. 

So Here's the complete set up:


Close ups of the connections.



Downrigger mount arrives Tuesday.  Outrigger is sort of functional currently but I need to make modifications on the attachment from pole to floats.  I wish i had access to real tools!  lol.  So I will post that when done.  Of course there are issues with those.

Today I wound 350 yards/1,050 feet of 100lbs test spectra onto the downrigger.  I should have timed it but with short breaks it didn't seem like it took very long at all.  With the big downrigger drum the spool on the halibut reel was screaming!  So it's WAY faster than the reel method.  It took longer since I had to adjust the drag on the reel several times as my daughter was holding the rod with the reel attached to it.  I am hoping to catch shrimp in the shallower pots as 350 feet instead of the 600 ft sets.  Well, heck, I hope I catch anything really...

If you have a better solution PLEASE chime in!!!!!!!

A cork screw connection might be easier on the water than a snap. That way there is no opening and closing.

A cork screw connection might be easier on the water than a snap. That way there is no opening and closing.

Funny ... I was just thinking that a corkscrew would be great for the end of the downrigger arm.

BTW, do you even need swivels?  How about small carabiners.  Just snap and go.

-Allen

A cork screw connection might be easier on the water than a snap. That way there is no opening and closing.

Funny ... I was just thinking that a corkscrew would be great for the end of the downrigger arm.

BTW, do you even need swivels?  How about small carabiners.  Just snap and go.

-Allen

Corkscrew would work fine for attaching the pot.  the problem is no corkscrew swivel is going to pass through my downrigger guides.  So I plan to use large corkscrews or Sampo saltwater cross locks to attach the pot.  The issues is making a good transition from the downrigger to the buoy.  Carabiners are notorious for losing pots when they get stuck and you are pulling against them as the rope is twisting but the pot might not be.  A locking one of sorts would work.

Should have complete set up ready by Wednesday evening.  I sure hope this works after all this effort!  Ya never know till ya try I guess.

Hope I am not boring people but definitely feel more comfortable bouncing some of this off the forum members.  remember, if you see something bad or have a better idea, let me know.  Don't be shy.  I want to do this with the highest possible level of success and safety.  I am pretty maxed out gear wise.  I am thinking the shrimp pot deployment the first time around is going to have to be solely for that purpose.  Don't need extra tackle and rods to get in the way.  But so far, everything fits fairly decently.

So today was putting together the outrigger and conducting from a fishing point of view, simulating pulling a pot up...could I do it?

I don't have the downrigger mount so the test isn't authentic but I think it sufficed for my concerns. The biggest concern for me was "As out of shape as I am, am I really going to be able to lift 2 pots up from 300 to 600 ft???"  I could just envision myself being so tired, that I just drop them back and wait to get a boat ride from one of my friends.

Well I am glad to announce my first test was a success!  I wanted to improve the connections between the sections of lines so I reewound the first 200 yard section back on to the halibut reel.  Then I connected the line back up to the downrigger and set the drag on the halibut reel mediocre tight.

I timed myself reeling in 200 yards/600ft of line with the downriggers with drag on the reel and it took me less than 4 minutes at an easily sustainable pace.  In fact I stopped several times to make sure the line was winding on straight.  That is every bit as fast as my friends pulling up pots with their electric pullers.  Of course they have more and bigger pots but... Confidence level is HIGH!

So now the outriggers.  I don't think too many people will benefit from this build as the outriggers are meant to be used only during limited paddling and mainly while retrieving and deploying the pots.

Equipment list:
10 ft telescoping buoy hook
2 shrimp floats
schedule 80 pvc pipe 3/4" basically threaded T joints and threaded sections.  I used 12 inches for the float and 4 I think up to the connection to the aluminium rod.
one sched 40 pvc T (but not sure about this weak link yet)
Lots of heavy duty velcro.

Basically screwed the pipes together after slamming a 12 inch pvc pipe into the floats.  barely got it deep enough for my comfort.  Might put some goop in their and drive them in further.  That foam is HARD!


Then velcro it to the rod and velcro the whole thing on to the Kayak.    The plastic loops are very flexible but are definitely the weak link in this system. I bet it snaps if I don't reinforce. I only need to do it on one side. Not sure how to do that yet. Waiting to see if the adhesive on the back of the velcro will hold on the kayak for more reinforcement.  If it doesn't stick, I may just goop and rivet the velcro on.  Function over Form!


You can see the velcro pieces in the pic below on the left that I hope will stick well enuf I can get strips holding it down some more.  That velcro is some grippy stuff!



So here's what it would look like.  The length of the arm is fully adjustable down to about 3ft.  It's going to be mounted on the other side. Once I get the weak connections beefed up.  I should be able to stand in it...maybe.  I would think with the arm extended that far out, it'd be hard to tip over the other way.  I think a big wake might be a problem if I took it broadside if it was extended that far....hmmmm....

Nice setup.  My only advice is that when you start testing it out see if you can pull the pots with the outrigger closer to the boat.  This will reduce the stress on the pad eyes. 

Nice setup.  My only advice is that when you start testing it out see if you can pull the pots with the outrigger closer to the boat.  This will reduce the stress on the pad eyes. 

and the Velcro.  I'd be concerned about just using Velcro to connect the outrigger to the yak.  Maybe try appropriately sized u-bolts upside down through the pad eyes? 

Can you reach the tip of your kayak?  How about forgetting the boom and mounting a roller off the tip of your kayak like we do for river anchors.  Mount the DR crank on the hatch between your legs, point it forward, and crank.  It's also a much more natural position to crank while facing forward.

-Allen

To piggy back on Poles idea here's what I use to pull crab pots here in Oregon.  Took a scotty rod holder and their crab roller and did a little modification/part swapping.  I can plug this right into a flush mount scotty on the gunnel of the yak (like the mount I see on your yak) if I adjust the angle of the pulley "down" the bottom of the pulley rests against the side of the yak and gets plenty of support.  I pull pots by hand (20-70ft deep) the roller really helps.
You could just mount the downrigger crank (no boom)on the center line on the yak right in front of you, maybe block it up a little to keep a good line angle and then run the spectra over the pulley and down (much like a gurdie on a salmon troller).  When the pot gets to the pulley just lean over and lift the pot to the deck of your yak.   I just hang my legs over the sides when pulling by hand and it is more than stable to pull even fully loaded crab pots this way.

Nice mod on the Scotty puller.

Inserting sponsor plug here ... we have those Scotty Trap-eze's in the prize packages they donated to both AOTY and ORC.   

-Allen

All good advice thanks.  I will try to incorporate some of the suggestions.  I honestly think the velcro is going to have plenty of strength.  It's the plastic eyes that have me concerned.  Keep in mind its just as important for me to have this outrigger a temporary set up as it is functional.  Because if its not, I won't use it much.  I also can't have U-bolts sticking out as I just transport my kayak on top of my civic roof with no rack.  Just a moving blanket. 

I have a pretty smart friend that is also strongly recommending attaching the pulley to the front.  Here's the trade off I see.  It would definitely allow me to pull up the pots, possibly without the use of a outrigger.  The issue I see is my ability to get spectra line onto the pulley, would it stay on the pulley, and how to get it off when I am ready to deal with the pot. I have the buoy hook, I can always move forward to get it.  So basically it means better balance as you are pulling the pots up and down, but I think its going to require a lot more movement to get to the pulley, deal with the traps, etc.  The way it is set up now, I turn around in my Kayak one time and all the gear and accessories is right in front of me.    I can see the front mounted pulley being the ideal set up if I can perfect the roller guides and the ability to transfer the line on and off the front pulley with spectra line.

I think many of these will certainly be incorporated into Kayak Shrimping 2.0. Too bad the season opener is Friday so I don't have more time.  They are calling for variable winds less than 10knots and 2 ft seas.  I think I am going to take off work early on Friday and see what happens.  Good thing sunset is after 9pm already.

Thanks for the advice.

Ok.  Sorry to keep spamming but the season opener is 50 hours out and I am constantly running into snags.  I hope its not bad etiquette but rather than posting all the issues twice can I just refer everyone to my blog at http://guidesak.blogspot.com  .  It's a non commercial site.  If it's ok, I also linked NWKA site at the top as well. 

I can say the hatch mount in front of me will not work.  Not enough space.  the downrigger would be too close to me and I wouldn't have the clearance with my leg to turn the handle.

The basic problem is I got the 360 swivel mount and the thing is HUGE!  and HEAVY! I have a fall back plan but its not optimal I don't think.  At any rate pics and a better description of the problem is posted on the blog.  Need to read down a few posts to get the full picture.

In need of solutions.  I have functional solutions.  they just aren't optimal.

What if you were to mount a board,maybe a hardwood 1x6+-,  "side to side"  behind the seat at a distance where you could crank the down rigger comfortably and the end of the boom would also reach out over the back of the yak.  Attach the board to the gunnel's of the yak on each side, if you can reach I'd through bolt it.  Mount the swivel base on the board over the centerline of the yak.  Use the boom and the swivel base to swing the traps around directly over the back end centerline of the yak when lowering and raising.  When the traps come to the surface use the swivel to rotate the boom back to the side so you can access the tasty shrimp..

I can say the hatch mount in front of me will not work.  Not enough space.  the downrigger would be too close to me and I wouldn't have the clearance with my leg to turn the handle.

Dangling your legs and straddling the kayak helps with the leg clearance and stability.

Otherwise, what pelagic said!

-Allen

Thanks guys.  I think it's going to end up in between pelagic's suggestion and what flatlander suggested a while back.  Before I drill any holes, I am going to see how hard it is to mount 3/4" schedule 80 pvc pipe with two "legs" in the scupper holes and two legs just resting on deck a little further back.  Then attach a plastic cutting board somehow, bolts, screws, rings, not sure yet.  Then the final problem becomes how to secure it so it doesn't pop up.  I think between the weight of the downrigger and the mount, I don't think its going to be too much of an issue. Worst case scenario, I may just rivet a piece of carpet or something that I can extend back to where I am sitting and throw my leg over it.    But if its a deck without permanent mounts, when I am not shrimping, i can just take the whole deck off. 

This project has gotten out of hand.  Pretty soon I am going to be adding fiberglass or aluminum, an electric puller, an outboard and the next thing you know, I am going to have a fully functional 20ft ocean going vessel that cost me 100 grand that I could have bought for $20K. lol.  But can't give up...never give up...