Anchor system for the Columbia

I have researched for a while now and can't seem to come up with a good way to rig my kayak. I saw the BSteves rigging, but I am concerned the anchor/trolley ropes will tangle with my rudder. I have a Pelican Elie Horizion 130.
I looked at the Scotty trap ezz and thought about offsetting it from my rudder but I'm not positive yet. When I'm anchored I want to be able to have the ability to throw a buoy and enjoy the ride.
Any ideas?

I have a rudder on mine and I have not had any tangle problems.  My trolley is a loop with the two rope ends tied to a brass ring that I run the anchor line through. This way I can adjust the position of the anchor rope from the bow to the stern. My trolley stops short of the bow and stern by about 4-6 inches.  I have one on each side. I like symmetry  and they double as grab lines. I run the anchor off the rear on one side and drift sock of the front on the other side  when I am sturgeon fishing.  It helps keep me from swinging back and forth in the current.

Cowlitz couple of things that come to mind:
I think a lot of anglers up here (but maybe not craig) are going to anchor with there butts (sterns) pointed downstream. If you've anchored with your stern upstream and a big log comes along and hits you at the very least it's going to make you stain your pants. At the worst it could mess up your rudder amongst other things.

So when I use a variation of the Bsteves rigging I'm always turning my bow upstream which means no rudder lines to tangle in. And like Craig I have my pulleys about 6 inches from the front and back and have not had any problem with this.

Second, I use a zigzag cleat and run my anchor trolley line over a general purpose line I have tied to my bow. I've not had any problems with the two tangling and if I get put in a tricky situation or get a big fish on I just pull that anchor line out of the zigzag cleat and drift away.

And as far as im concerned if you've got your boat in a smaller coastal river and are dragging a pyramid anchor that does change things and becomes another discussion.

I like bsteve's set up. If you set the anchor in 30 ft of water and and play out 100 ft of anchor line as you drfit downstream over the 90 ft deep  sturgeon hole on the Willamette, you'll have a 3:1 scope which should hold pretty well in a gentle current.  Whether your anchor trolley is set at the bow or stern, your kayak will drift as far downstream from anchor as it can before you are fishing. When you do hook up, you release the trolley line and drift your kayak downstream while fighting the fish. You'll be  200 meters downstream from your anchoring system by the time you get the fish up from 100 ft. I was impressed the first time i tried it out. Very cool.

Cowlitz couple of things that come to mind:
I think a lot of anglers up here (but maybe not craig) are going to anchor with there butts (sterns) pointed downstream. If you've anchored with your stern upstream and a big log comes along and hits you at the very least it's going to make you stain your pants. At the worst it could mess up your rudder amongst other things.

So when I use a variation of the Bsteves rigging I'm always turning my bow upstream which means no rudder lines to tangle in. And like Craig I have my pulleys about 6 inches from the front and back and have not had any problem with this.

Second, I use a zigzag cleat and run my anchor trolley line over a general purpose line I have tied to my bow. I've not had any problems with the two tangling and if I get put in a tricky situation or get a big fish on I just pull that anchor line out of the zigzag cleat and drift away.

And as far as im concerned if you've got your boat in a smaller coastal river and are dragging a pyramid anchor that does change things and becomes another discussion.

I agree with TX paddler.  If there is a lot of debris floating by, I anchor with the bow pointing upstream so I can see it coming.  But, when that isn't a concern, I prefer to look downstream.  It seams more comfortable fishing that way.  That is why I like my trolley, I can do it either way.

Ditto all the above comments.  Go with an anchor trolley.  http://www.demonick.com/kayak/Anchor.Trolley/Anchor.Trolley.html

Anyone using a kayak sized version of a "Columbia River" anchor? 
http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Anchoring.htm

This is an OLD thread... but since I couldn't find that anyone answered the question and I have the same one... I will try to resurrect it.  Anyone use a kayak size rocking chair anchor?

http://www.columbiariveranchorsystem.com/

I would not want one of those things banging around my kayak.  The columbia has a pretty uniformally sandy or muddy bottom.  My 10lb pyramid anchor gets plenty of bite in those conditions.

-Spot-

I had a 5 pound claw and it worked fine on the Columbia.  Too well on the Willamette.

So, the rocker anchor is overkill... that is what I am hearing.   Thanks guys, as always, you rock...

Bruce anchor all the way for me. You can rig it up with the same type of breakaway as the rocker style, and they're suuuuuper lightweight and compact in the yakable sizes.  My setup holds rock solid in sand, mud, clay, & gravel.  Can usually get it to hold in rock too, but sometimes it takes awhile. 

I would not want one of those things banging around my kayak.  The columbia has a pretty uniformally sandy or muddy bottom.  My 10lb pyramid anchor gets plenty of bite in those conditions.

-Spot-

+1 on 10# pyramid for columbia. Works awesome!

You can also use a break-away on a folding claw. 

FP, got a link to a source for the Bruce anchor in the USA?

West Marine carries them in the smaller sizes.

You can also use a break-away on a folding claw. 

FP, got a link to a source for the Bruce anchor in the USA?

I don't, I'm sorry.  That was just a link to a google search i did, for those who might not know what a bruce anchor is.  I got mine from Fisherman's in Portland.  I'd look around on Ebay if you can't find them anywhere near you. Hope this helps