Truck Rack

I've been poring over the interwebs looking for a rack system for my F-150 that will allow me to carry my 12' kayak while I am also towing our travel trailer.

I have two obstacles which I can't seem to overcome, at least not based on the product descriptions:

1) I want something that will be easily removed or folded out of the way for when I need to go to the landscape supply for a load of soil or gravel. Permanent uprights and cross bars would interfere with their loader and get damaged.

2) All these clamp-in systems mean any joker with a leatherman or pliers could walk off with my $600 rack system in about 2 minutes.

Most of the time when I transport a kayak I transport a single or pair of kayaks in the bed with the tailgate down. This would only be for when I take it camping.

I suppose there might be an instance some day when I would have 2 kayaks in the bed and one or two up on the rack. Nah, that would never happen. Maaaaybe two up on the rack with the trailer in tow.

EDIT: Oh, so the question is, has anyone solved similar requirements ?

Get one of these and modify it to your needs. For $99, you can't go wrong and if someone were to steal it, it's only $99. It should store easy, as well.


http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/truck-boxes-racks/250-lb-truck-ladder-rack-66187.html

 I modified one of their truck bed extenders and made it go upright so it cleared the top of the rear of my vehicle so I could haul an 18.5 foot canoe on top. I used a yakima rack over the cab. I did this to spread out the distance between the bars to decrease the lateral forces. Basically, I just flipped it up 90 degrees and swapped which end went into the receiver and drilled some holes.

Bring your rig and camper here for the weekend with some 1 to 1-1/2 square tube steel and let's just make you one 
But I preferred this one sided rack.

Bring your rig and camper here for the weekend with some 1 to 1-1/2 square tube steel and let's just make you one 
But I preferred this one sided rack.

Nice. Looks like you can fit two on there.

Well now that I look closer, the cab is in the way. Would work on a trailer.

Kinda ghetto, but....(most of my posts are kinda ghetto)...
 Just bolt a couple of 4x4's across the bed of your truck to haul the yaks.
 Easily removed and low profile.
 My buddy Jim has this setup and it works fine for his yak.

"All these clamp-in systems mean any joker with a leatherman or pliers could walk off with my $600 rack system in about 2 minutes."
I use one of the clamp ons systems and used to worry about that but I've had it for 4 years on my  f150 and have just stopped being concerned. Having said that I don't really leave my truck I in any dicey areas. Craig's idea of the $99 special seems reasonable.
T2

I use a Yakima rack that goes above the cab of my Tundra when I pull our travel trailer.  It has worked well for me.  I have loaded my PA 14 on it and haven't had any problems.  I've also had a Revo 13 and Predator MX on it at the same time and have driven in same pretty hellacious winds without issue.  I recommend bow and stern tie downs as an insurance policy though.

 The options for loading that I have used are.

 Picking up the kayak upside down and pressing it over your head and onto the rack is the method I prefer .
 Yakima makes a boat loader rod that inserts into the front crossbar of the rack. You pull it out a couple of feet, pick up and lay the bow of the kayak on the rod, pick up the stern of the kayak and load it onto the rear crossbar, then slide the bow onto the front crossbar.  You only have to lift about 1/2 the weight of the kayak.
  The last method you load the kayak into the bed of your pickup.  You then pick up the bow, slide the kayak forward and place it on the rear crossbar.  You can then pick up the stern and slide the kayak forward onto the front crossbar.

Kinda ghetto, but....(most of my posts are kinda ghetto)...
 Just bolt a couple of 4x4's across the bed of your truck to haul the yaks.
 Easily removed and low profile.
 My buddy Jim has this setup and it works fine for his yak.

Having trouble seeing how this would help the length issue. I need to get the yak above the roofline. If it were a shorter yak (9' max) I could just put the tailgate up and let the kayak high tail it.

This is how I do it.

This is how I do it.

That's a distinct possibility I will have to put in the mix. Thanks !

I looked at the truck bed racks and decided to use the Yakima rack instead. I wanted something I would be able to use a hard tonneau bed cover with.

 It looks like it would be hard to get the kayaks far enough forward to clear the trailer when turning using a bed mounted rack.  I have seen bed mounted racks that go up and over the cab that would work, but they wouldn't be easily removable.

I ended up running over to HFT and grabbing that half-rack. Now I just have to read the book and do a little pondering and futzing, but I have a base to build on. Mainly now it will be about the cradles.

I will definitely set it up so the back of the boat hangs over no more than 2', everything else up front. It's a 6.5' bed, 12' yak = 3.5' from the back of the cab - should still be behind the windshield.

Start thinkering, Shannon. I did the hard parts already !

Text me the specs and when it's not raining some photos. Also bring it to Huddleston with you and we can do some thinkering and measuring with your yak on it

"All these clamp-in systems mean any joker with a leatherman or pliers could walk off with my $600 rack system in about 2 minutes."
I use one of the clamp ons systems and used to worry about that but I've had it for 4 years on my  f150 and have just stopped being concerned. Having said that I don't really leave my truck I in any dicey areas. Craig's idea of the $99 special seems reasonable.
T2

What I have done in the past is drill a small hole in the inner portion of the bed and route a cable type gun lock through it. Then they have to work for it and maybe someone will notice.