Wooden Cedar Strip Kayak Build

Well, I started this project awhile back (sometime in April 2010).  I started by transferring the dimensions from the plans to cheap oriented strand board (OSB) for making templates.  OSB is cheap if you screw up.

Normally, a strip built boat is built on forms on a strong back with strips that have a cove and bead so they fit tightly around a curve:



However, a few years ago I thought why not combine the best of both worlds.  The quickness of a plywood stitch and glue kayak build with the beauty and inexpensiveness of cedar and pine.  I was ridiculed by a couple guys on a boat building forum until I completed my first one with this method.  Now almost all of them do it, mainly due to the fact that marine plywood is now over $70 a sheet and most canoes and kayaks require 5 or more sheets.

For this build, one set of every panel from the plans (except the bottom panels) was cut from the OSB to make templates that the strips will be built up on. However, I chose to use marine ply for the bottom two panels due to: the extreme twist on the ends; the okume is a harder wood and should be able to take more abuse; it would be quicker to build; and it will be covered with a graphite/epoxy mix, so strips wouldn't be seen anyways.

Marine ply bottoms:


I did a butt joint in the marine ply bottom panels and strengthened it with a strip of fiberglass after the joint dried:


For the rest of the panels, I ripped a bunch of cedar strips out of 5/4 X 4 deck boards that I found at Lowes.  I hit the motherload of clear 10 footers and got more than enough for about $54  .  The strips were slightly under 1/4 inch thick. I did not cove and bead the strips like I would do if building the yak on forms which is the traditional method of strip building.  When I ripped them, I kept them in the order they were cut from the board and taped them into bundles so all strips from each board were kept together in the order they were cut.  I did this so I could book-match the strips and the entire boat will be visually "balanced" and because I am slightly obsessive/compulsive.  This boat will be all cedar with no pine accent strips like I usually add to a boat.

Here is a picture of the rear deck stripped next to the OSB template.  My obsessive/compulsiveness came out as you can see I "book-matched" the strips to make the two sides look like mirror images  :

The larger templates were laid out and I fastened them to my newly fabricated 16 foot table as per the QA measurements from the plans.  I wanted to not have butt joints on the sides and deck. Therefore, I could eliminate that step and also a potential weak spot.

I started stripping on the top of the side panels so the seam where the side meets the deck will be all one continuous line.  As I added strips, I laid an oak board on edge across every couple of feet and clamped it down so when the strips were clamped to each others edges, the panel would not buckle.  I was able to clamp about 3-4 rows at a time, so the panels went together rather quickly.  You can see, on the right side of the table (Near the weight at the upper third), the fiberglass curing on the bottom panel butt joints. 


The only nails used to hold the strips in place were on the upper edge.  These holes will also be used for the stitching panels together.  I wanted to build with as few holes as possible.  After the panels were glued and done, I trimmed them with the flush-cut router bit using the edge of the OSB templates. Then, since none were wider than 13 inches, I ran the panels through my planer,  It was a two person job on some since they were up to 15 feet long. I wish I would have thought of this on a previous build.  It saves a lot of time and sanding, and makes a uniform thickness throughout the entire length of the panel. The final panel thickness was 3/16" which is what I was shooting for.  Most strip built boats are 1/4 inch thick. By making it 3/16 I saved 25% in wood weight.

Then, I fiberglassed the inside of the panels to strengthen them for the assembly and making it so I only have to tape the inside joints.  I find it much easier then fiberglassing the entire inside.

Here is a shot of the two side panels after the flush cut bit, planing, and saturation coat of epoxy.  I had started laying on the odds and ends of fiberglass:


When I do the insides of these panels, I do not cut one long piece of glass off the roll.  I like to use up the scraps and overlap them by about 2-4 inches.  When I don't have any scraps left I just cut the cloth width-wise off the roll making 54" long pieces.  I find it easier to handle that way than one long piece of glass cloth.  The overall boat may end up a few ounces heavier, but I figure its cheaper due to less waste in the cloth since I get to use up my scraps.  Since only one coat of epoxy has been put on the insides of these panels, you can see the overlaps:


I almost left out the most critical step that I do on every boat.  This time I got it out of the way right off the bat.  I slipped with the Japanese pull saw while cutting a strip      I have never drawn blood during a boat build with a power tool.  It is always that darn Japanese pull saw.  In this case, it was the one with two cutting edges and it was the edge that I wasn't cutting with on top that got me when my hand slipped.



I feel this step is necessary because the blood soaks into the porous wood leaving behind my DNA.  Then, if the boat is ever stolen, I can prove its mine upon recovery 

All the panels but the two long skinny deck panels are done and ready for assembly. 
The bottom was stitched together and to the forms.  The sides were stitched to the forms. 




Next, I did the 3A/3B panel stripping.  I fastened the templates down and did the the QA checks.  Then, I stripped it leaving extra around the entire perimeter since I figured that it would straighten out somewhat.  I was right, it straightened, and I did not leave enough extra.     I anticipated this may happen, but I didn't want to add more to it because I wanted a uniform line where it meets the side panel.  Luckily I had a back-up plan.  

I removed the 3A/B panel from the templates and planed it to prep the inner side for fiberglass.


Then, I planed the deck pieces that I had previously stripped. 



   After the planing, I drove a few nails back though their existing holes (used for the stripping) in the panels and into their respective holes in the OSB templates.  That way the panel was back in place just as it was during the stripping. After that, I used up some 6 oz cloth pieces, including some scraps, and prepped for epoxy:

Next, I applied the epoxy.  My hope was that when it cures, the fiberglass would help it hold its shape so I could flush cut it to the templates with the router. I figure that what little it straightens, will be corrected when it gots stitched to the other panels.  If not, then I would add more wood as needed.


I stripped the last of the panels and I fiberglassed the inside of it and the other deck panels. 

After finishing stitching panels together, I made sure everything was square and fair, leveled the saw horses to each other (so the hull will not be twisted), flipped her over, and started gluing.  This is my least favorite part of any build.  Its nice to get the pieces together permanently, but it's the stage where the boat gets uglier rather than prettier with all the epoxy/wood flour mix everywhere.  The angle I took the picture at makes things look a little crooked.  . 


I pulled the wires filled the gaps where the wires were, and sanded her outside hull smooth.  I added a saturation coat of epoxy to the wood and let it dry.

Then, I cut a piece of fiberglass the shape of the bottom of the hull and applied epoxy.  After it dried, I cut fiber glass pieces a little over half the width of the bottom of the hull and epoxied them on the entire length of the hull bottom panels on each side overlapping in the middle.  Now the entire hull has one complete coat of 4 oz, the bottom two hull panels have an additional coat of 4 oz, and the overlap of two inches on each side of the keel on these bottom panel cloth pieces gives the keel line another 4 ozs.  I figure the 8 ozs on the bottom with the 12 oz keel line should be plenty of abrasion resistance, especially once the graphite is mixed in. It probably added another 2 pounds to the total weight, but I felt it was worth it since I don't know where this boat will be used since it's for a someone else.






After taking about 6 months off from this build, it was time to get the strip built deck on.  The first thing I did was stitch it together.  This was a pain in the butt due to all the floppy pieces.   


Then, I used some tarp straps to hold it tight to the forms inside.  The deck did not want to flatten out where it was supposed to without the straps.

After this I mixed up the epoxy wood flour mix and glued the seams. 

Side view:

Next, I removed it from the forms, flipped it, and and did the interior seams with epoxy/wood flour and fiberglass tape.


I cut and laid the cloth strips.  I like to use up the scraps for the underside of the deck.  It may end up a little heavier due to multiple overlaps, but it's easier to handle in the wet epoxy/wood flour fillets and it's easier on the wallet.

Then, I wet them out with epoxy.  Now I have a general idea of what the final deck coloration will look like.


Next, I glued the front and back bulkheads in place and sewed the deck to the hull.  I prefer this method of attachment over the method in the plans which calls for gluing in a sheer strip, then gluing the deck to the sheer strip and sides.  I don't know why, maybe because I am impatient and did not want wait for a sheer strip to dry overnight.  I also figured I could save a little weight this way.  Couple photos:





It looks fast in the last photo

Sanded, sanded and sanded.   I hate sanding.  I sanded the joint between the deck and the hull and removed all the epoxy/wood flour lumps that would prevent the deck from sealing to the hull.   

Then, I did the epoxy saturation coat on the deck. Here is a few pictures:
From front


from back


and side view


Finally, I glassed her deck. I was just going to overlap the sides 2 inches, but I realized that there would be a lot more sanding involved to smooth out the edge of the glass.  So, I let the glass hang all the way down the sides to the bottom of the chine.  When the glass cured for a couple days, I trimmed it right along the joint where the bottom panels meet the side.  I just have to do a little touch up along that line with some sand paper. You can barely notice it as it is. There are two layers of 4 oz on the side now, but the additional weight is worth the lack of sanding required.     Speaking of weight, she came in at just under 40 pounds, at that stage.  However, additional coats of graphite/epoxy mix needed to be put on the bottom.  I will also need 2 fill coats on the side and deck to fill the fiberglass weave. The combing will also have to be done.

Here are a few pictures from various angles.





Sanded and sanded and sanded some more.  Then, a fill coat was put on and this was repeated.  Next I glued on the cockpit combing. 







I masked the bottom along the line where the bottom panels join the side panels and put three coats of graphite/epoxy mix on.





Last week, I did the part I always hate.  I took a saw to a perfectly good deck to make a front hatch. I had previously cut the rear hatch.  It needed more storage space for longer trips and I also needed access so I could glass the inner seam where the deck meets the hull. 




After cutting the hatches, I had access to the inside of the full length of the boat and I ran a fillet of epoxy/wood flour mix and a two inch strip of fiberglass the full length on each side where the deck meets the sides. 

I added the hatch braces to prevent the potential of the hatch losing its bent shape:

And drilled an over-sized hole for the front grab loop and filled it with epoxy/wood flour


Here is what I did today so far:

Glued in the spacer strips that will correct the depth of the hatch flange for the thickness of the gasket.

Another view. I also drilled thru the epoxy/wood flour fill in the hole for the front grab loop.

Tough to see, but holes were drilled in the cheek plates and rear bulkhead for the seat padeyes and a hole was drilled thru both hatch covers for the mechanism that will seal the hatches tight.  There is masking tape to hold the thickened epoxy in place that is filling the holes until it cures.


Now to go make the knobs that will tighten down the hatches.  Unlike my Hobie hatches, the hatches I make are truly water tight.

Bravo, you are a true craftsman with your wood working, and fiberglass skills.

That's way out of my league, as wood and I don't work well together.   

    Craig,
  All I can say is WOW........Beautiful boat.
  The kayaks I used to make were totally fiberglass.Lay up the hull -then the top deck-when they cure,glass them together and add the combing.I made over 40 this way so I can apprreciate the work you put into yours.And wood strip boats are a sight to see.Very nicely done.

True work of art.  I commend your skill and patience!  I want to make one out of Aluminum

Thanks for the complements guys.  Your no slouch when it comes to fiberglass Insayn. In fact I think OK stole your idea with their new rod pod lid.   The wood just makes it so you don't need as much fiberglass.

 Mark, do you still have access to the molds?  I love that camo one.  Was that molded in or painted afterwards?   

My next build will be a custom fish cooler/downrigger mount/rod holder for the Outback tank well. It will be similar to the Ocean Kayak one.  I figure some foil- bubble- foil insulation for attics sandwiched between fiberglass would work quite well.  I have a huge roll.  If that works, I will make one for the Adventure, too.

Mark, what did you use for a mold release?  I may lay the glass up right it the tank well.  Or, I will put down saran wrap first. 

PP, Aluminum would be awesome.  Perhaps even nearly shark proof.  I would be tempted to try it, but aluminum is quite pricey and as we all saw from my post of the repaired Hobie scupper cart, my welding skillz have severely atrophied since I was 19.

VERY NICE JOB!!! I too love building boats and you did a Great job, I haven't built a kayak as yet But Would like to design and build a SOT  , My Fathers Shop in Shelter Cove Has Most All my tools now So ,And I have no shop area here, Again Nice Job,Whats Epoxy going for a gal now about 200. bucks ,And blood and wood blend well too.

   I do not have the mold anymore but I could make one if needed.It would be a lot of work (sanding,buffing,etc.) but it is do-able.
   To make the marsh-grass camo,I bought a bolt of material and cut it to fit the mold ,laid it in, and glassed it up.To pop the boat from the mold I used a releasing wax (can't remember the brand name).Search for a releasing agent and you might come up with something ?? I've never tried saran wrap.Wouldn't that cause a bunch of wrinkles ? If it works for you great-I wouldn't know about that.
   I still have the camo kayak and will probably keep it forever.If I were to get back into building boats, that would be what I'd build my mold from.Even though I have a cavourness(read that large) shop,that is not in my plans at this time.Getting into working more with wood right now.Chainsaw carvings come to mind......
  I also built these little gems.A 12' mini-drifter that weighs 150 lbs,and will fit in the back of a Toyota pickup.I will also be keeping this cause it works so great on many of the smaller Olympic Penesula streams.  Like it ?

VERY NICE JOB!!! I too love building boats and you did a Great job, I haven't built a kayak as yet But Would like to design and build a SOT  , My Fathers Shop in Shelter Cove Has Most All my tools now So ,And I have no shop area here, Again Nice Job,Whats Epoxy going for a gal now about 200. bucks ,And blood and wood blend well too.

Epoxy is about $164 for a 3 gallon kit if you buy it online. http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=E_kit_3gal

I have built a SOT.  There are plans available. I still have the OSB templates for the parts. It is stable, fast, and even though it is 15 feet long, it is lighter than my Outback .  I thought I may build another with a mirage drive well at one time, but I got impatient and bought a Hobie. 

The Wooden Boat Show was this weekend in Depoe Bay. There's another one in Toledo later this summer. You ought to go show off a little. Another sweet looking ride Craig.

She's is a bute!

That's impressive. I read that whole article jaw agape. Thanks for sharing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great project, I appreciate the time you took, I've been working on a CLL 17 for 2 years, life gets in the way. I only have the deck to fiberglass and I'm ready for water.

I also have plans for a SOT, Sabalo 15 from Jem watercraft to start soon, but one at a time.

Great project, I appreciate the time you took, I've been working on a CLL 17 for 2 years, life gets in the way. I only have the deck to fiberglass and I'm ready for water.

I also have plans for a SOT, Sabalo 15 from Jem watercraft to start soon, but one at a time.

The Sabalo is what I built in that picture.  It tracks very straight.  Most people get the rudder to go straight in the wind, I needed the rudder to help it turn.

Mark, I do like the mini drifter.  Was that from plans, or a mold?  That would be good for getting the boys out in the larger trout ponds and lakes.

Beautiful work!!!  Just beautiful!!!

I still want of one of those mini-drifters Mark.   

-Allen

Beautiful work!!!  Just beautiful!!!

I still want of one of those mini-drifters Mark.   

-Allen

Thanks.
I built it to match the beautiful wooden fish bonker CBY sent me.